Props Halo 3 Covenant Carbine Build

SIERRA720

New Member
Hi all!

I've been pretty quiet over here for the last few years but I wanted to change that, so I'm making this post about the Covenant Carbine I made for PAX Aus last year. Long overdue, but better late than never right?
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The carbine was 3D printed. To start, I used the files by MoeSizzlac on the model index. I hollowed the model out, split it into parts, added holes for the LEDs and then did some minor modelling to allow me to slot a PVC pipe into the barrel. I'm not a skilled modeller by any means and just used simple tools on meshmixer like the plane cut.

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This is the inside of one component, showing how the PVC pipe slotted into the main section of the weapon.

I also wanted to make sure that the electronics were accessible in future, in case any repairs needed to be made, so I was sure to leave some of the top sections open so that I could make the panels removable.

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Unfortunately in my eagerness to see the carbine completed, I glued the weapon together without realising how difficult it would be to access some of the lower LEDs in the front section.

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The two larger LEDs connected to the barrel in particular would have been extremely difficult to reach. So after considerable thought, I decided to sell this carbine and start again, this time installing those LEDs before gluing the body together.
 
It wasn't a huge loss though. To be honest, at that time I'd just gotten a new 3D printer: a Bambulab X1C, and was eager for a new project to test it out with.

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I quickly printed each component and did something I don't usually do - I started filling and sanding each piece before joining them. I wanted to minimise the work I would have to do once the carbine was together this time around as there would now be LEDs in the mix.

After I had prepared the pieces, I installed those troublesome larger LEDs in the back of the barrel.

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And then glued the rest of the body together using a combination of super glue and plastic welding with a soldering iron.

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This is where things started to get tricky..

I hadn't used a soldering iron for electronics since I was in high school and it had hit me that I would need to design one or more circuits to power 40-50 LEDs.

After watching a few YouTube videos and a big shop for supplies at my local hobby store, I decided to give it a crack. And honestly, it wasn't as intimidating as I had thought.

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I ended up designing three circuits for the weapon. The first was for the larger LEDs, the second was for the cluster in the middle of the weapon, and the third was for the LEDs at the rear.

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If I could go back in time and redo the carbine with what I now know, I would design the whole system around one circuit. It would have been worth the time to design it as I will admit, it is a little bit annoying having to turn on three switches everytime. But at the time, I wasn't very confident with my skills and was going through a mad crunch to get the carbine ready for a convention. It seemed easier to split a large, complicated circuit into three smaller parts.


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I did a quick test fit without gluing (this picture only shows the rear lights) to make sure that everything fits, and moved back to painting.
 
I first painted the silver section of the body using an old bike mount as a stand. It wasn't ideal, but it's a bit awkward trying to paint the carbine due to its size and the curves.

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For the purple, I always knew what paint I was going to use.

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Dupli-colour have an awesome metal cast paint range where you spray on a chrome base and paint over the top with a glossy coloured clear coat. I had used it before in the past and the effect looks fantastic, especially in person. I had always wanted to use the purple for a Covenant weapon so this was my chance.

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It did not dissapoint, but as always, do some experimentation first to find the best way to paint. It took me a few tries on test pieces before I was 100% happy with the coat.

Afterwards was the most fun part of the whole build! The detail painting

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I used a brush to colour in every single black dot around the handle and on a few other places. This might have been the most fun I have had while painting. It was very easy to do and was super satisfying lol. This was followed by a simple Blackwash for weathering. I didn't do anything elaborate as I was worried about accidentalky weathering it too heavily when I wanted it to look fairly clean

Unfortunately, this was followed by the most difficult part of the build, installing the LEDs.

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Even with the front LEDs already installed, the mid-section LEDs were still extremely difficult to access. I started with the front lower three on each side, adding a small amount of super glue around the LED and then trying very carefully to get them into their corresponding holes without damaging the wiring or getting glue everywhere. Needle noses pliers were essential here. After the bottom ones were installed, the top ones weren't much of a problem luckily.

Maybe someone more skilled with electronics would have a suggestion for improving the process, but I really did have a hard time here. I left a decent amount of wire between each LED to allow me to manouver them in, but too much wiring also caused the space to get crowded. Luckily I didn't damage any of the wiring or LEDs during this process.

I also used baking soda to cause the super glue to set immediately when it was in the right spot. This worked perfectly at the time, but the problem was baking soda was falling out of the carbine for months afterwards xD
 
I wish I could say that the little section with the four LEDs closer to handle were easier but it was also a pain. I ended up 3D modelling a small square with holes in to hold each LED in position. I glued the LEDs into this piece and with some difficulty, glued the piece into the slot on each side. Unfortunately, it was pretty trick to get the square holders in position as the internal surfaces were curved and the square only awkwardly made contact with the edges. It wasn't pretty, but I did eventually get them in. This whole process took a few hours, and it was about 8pm the night before I was leaving for the con.

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This is the aftermath, showing how crowded everything was in the mid section. Good news was that the lights were far more easily accessible in the rear portion and installing them was a breeze :)

(I should also mention that I used magnets and some elastic to hold the doors closed on the top! You can see where I installed them in the above picture)

And with that, at 10 pm the night before an 8 hour drive to PAX, I had finished the carbine! My most challenging build by far, but the one I am most proud of

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I hope this thread is a useful reference for anyone thinking about a similar build in future!

I learnt a lot of skills along the way, especially relating to modelling, electronics, and painting metallics.

One thing I had intended to do in future was to add LEDs to the carbine's cartridge (magazine/clip?), but honestly I'm happy with where it is at the moment and have moved on to other projects.

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Here's me with the carbine a few days later at PAX with the recon helmet I made alongside the carbine (I believe the file was also from the model index, and the visor was by Branfuhr studios). And here's the carbine with my other Covenant weapons, noting that the only one I made myself was the carbine:

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Overall, while it was a challenging build, it resulted in my favourite prop I've ever made. If you're interested in making one, I'd say give it a shot! If you have any questions, feel free to leave them here and I'll do my best to help out :)

Thanks for reading!
 
I also used baking soda to cause the super glue to set immediately when it was in the right spot. This worked perfectly at the time, but the problem was baking soda was falling out of the carbine for months afterwards xD
Ooh accelerator is the answer for the future here! Apply your glue, spray the area with this spray, and boom it'll harden the glue up in seconds. It does get warm though.

Amazing build! You've already heard this I have no doubt, and it will not be the last. I'm baffeled no one all weekend has responded to this until today!

I love how you broke everything down in the posts, your texts and images get the point across very well. (y)

If you can, I would love to see a quick breakdown of how you split, hollowed, and prepped the model for electronics in Meshmixer. I've never used that program before.

Congratulations on your build and thank you for sharing!
 
That’s an insanely cool build, it’s so clean looking and your write up was awesome to read!! Excellent work!

Also I’d second Parzival’s request for how you prepped everything in Meshmixer, I’m always looking for new programs to learn for 3d printing projects and such, so I’d love to see how you did it
 
This has to be one of the most beautiful things i have seen so far. when you started with essentially saying I'm using a empty husk and throwing in lights i was worried.

it all looks fabulous. you cant see seam, or the hinge doors. the coloring is amazing.

For your sanity you can use Circuits on Tinkercad - Tinkercad to design circuits online with your battery usage and resistors. it is 100% online and free for basic use.

keep up the amazing work
 
Ooh accelerator is the answer for the future here! Apply your glue, spray the area with this spray, and boom it'll harden the glue up in seconds. It does get warm though.

Amazing build! You've already heard this I have no doubt, and it will not be the last. I'm baffeled no one all weekend has responded to this until today!

I love how you broke everything down in the posts, your texts and images get the point across very well. (y)

If you can, I would love to see a quick breakdown of how you split, hollowed, and prepped the model for electronics in Meshmixer. I've never used that program before.

Congratulations on your build and thank you for sharing!
Thank you for the kind words!! That accelerator sounds perfect, I'll definitely give it a look next time I'm working on a build. It's handy for a quick solution, but I definitely don't recommend it for enclosed spaces after the carbine

I'll be honest, I don't think meshmaker is the best tool these days. It was useful as free software back when I started working on prints, but I don't think I'd recommend it anymore. A lot of 3D print slicers actually have the same tools built in nowadays too. That being said, I'll do a quick write up on what I did as it can still apply with other programs.

I'll drop an image below where you can see the seams so you will know where I'm talking about.

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Meshmixer (and other programs) have a plane cut tool which will cut a 3D model where you need it to. As there was no lighting in the bottom half, the first cut I made separated the top and bottom. You can see the horizontal seam to the bottom left of the green LEDs in the above image. I then cut the bottom a few more times so that it could fit on my printer.

Next up, I wanted to create a space for a PVC pipe to be inserted into the barrel for support. I used a tool called 'boolean difference' which takes two intersecting shapes, deletes one of them, and deletes the space in which they intersected.. If that makes sense. So what I did was create a cylinder the same dimensions as the PVC pipe I wanted, inserted it into the barrel, and used the tool to create the space.

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You can see where the cylinder was on the right side of this piece. I did do the same with smaller cylinder in the middle there thinking I could get a bit more reinforcement it, but I ended up cutting this piece out as it blocked access to the lower LED holes. Whoops.

After this, I cut the barrel off from the rest of the weapon, and cut it into smaller pieces for my printer.

Lastly was the most complicated part, the upper body of the weapon with all the LEDs.

This was the part where I hollowed it out. Meshmixer has a 'hollow object' tool that I used and it did exactly what I needed it to. Next, I sliced the model vertically down the centre so that every LED hole I made would be mirrored by flipping the same pieces before I printed them.

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You can see in this image that the lower pieces and barrel were all printed in one piece, but the upper pieces were halved vertically. This was critical for the section with the larger LEDs for installation, and for the creation of the doors to access electronics, otherwise the rest of the pieces honestly could have been rejoined before printing to save some time.

Last big step I did was creating all the LED holes. Remember that neat boolean difference tool I used before? Yep same thing haha. Just made some cylinders of the diameter I needed for the LEDs and places them where I needed the holes and used the boolean difference tool to create openings. After that I simply cut up the rest of the weapon so that it would fit on my printer.

I hope this write-up hasn't been too vague, as I said I think there would be better programs to use these days but unfortunately I'm not sure what to recommend as a replacement. Meshmixer was just what I already knew and I was in a crunch to get the carbine out.

That being said, I am fairly happy with the final product. I'll have to see if I can find the old tutorial I used to learn meshmixer
 
That’s an insanely cool build, it’s so clean looking and your write up was awesome to read!! Excellent work!

Also I’d second Parzival’s request for how you prepped everything in Meshmixer, I’m always looking for new programs to learn for 3d printing projects and such, so I’d love to see how you did it
Thanks so much!!

Hope the above reply is helpful :)

As I said, I think meshmixer might be a bit old fashioned but if you do want to try it, it did work for me. I personally might look into trying other software in future, I think I'm long overdue to learn blender or fusion 360
 
This has to be one of the most beautiful things i have seen so far. when you started with essentially saying I'm using a empty husk and throwing in lights i was worried.

it all looks fabulous. you cant see seam, or the hinge doors. the coloring is amazing.

For your sanity you can use Circuits on Tinkercad - Tinkercad to design circuits online with your battery usage and resistors. it is 100% online and free for basic use.

keep up the amazing work
Really appreciate that tip! I need to install the green 'test' light on my SPNKr so I'll give it a test designing that circuit lol

While that might be pretty basic, I'd also have to install some LEDs in a sniper scope I'm working on, so tinkercad would be very useful there :)
 

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