Halo 4/5 Energy Sword with Working Soundboard and LED's - WIP

Discussion in 'Halo 3D Modeling' started by MoeSizzlac, Oct 18, 2018.

  1. MoeSizzlac

    MoeSizzlac Member

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    Hello all,

    I'm trying to make a decent electronic sound and light Halo 4/5 energy sword using TheRaptorClaw's Halo: Type-1 Energy Sword Handle.


    Most of this I'm making from leftover parts of other projects.

    I'm using a 27mm Speaker
    a 3.7v rechargeable battery
    a Nano Biscotte Sound Module V4
    18650 Battery holder
    Neopixel Lights
    8/32 Screws and nuts
    Momentary switch

    The first thing to do is split the model and create an upper and lower blank that I can work with. This took longer than I care to admit but below was the result:

    Untitled 2.jpg

    Next, I needed to hollow out the interior for all the components, screws and wiring:




    Dry fit components:
    20181017_110125.jpg 20181017_110134.jpg

    Sand and prime and paint handle:

    20181016_212336.jpg 20181016_213153.jpg 20181017_182921.jpg 20181017_185416.jpg 20181017_185429.jpg

    and now I'm currently at the point of making the blade. I only got to outline the parts so far:

    20181017_193407.jpg 20181017_193417.jpg 20181017_213516.jpg 20181017_213527.jpg

    That's all for now. I still have to finish the blade shaping, internal wiring, sound font programming and then it'll be done. I'll share files if anyone wants them when the project is complete.
  2. ReClaimer8015

    ReClaimer8015 Member

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    Ohhhhhh, Snap!
    You are doing exactly what i was tryin to start myself...Your Grip and blade is definitively H4, i wanted to make the H5 Beta Version (not the one which made into the game)

    The Blade is similar to the H4 Version, i like this little holes...don`t know what it resembles however.
    I already have the Grip as a 3d model made by CPO mendez , just need to make it holllow. The Blade i already did myself, would use a CNC Cutter on plastic for that.
    My biggest problem is electronics though, i have no idea what i am doing:whistle:
    So i hope to learn from your thread!

    Btw, can you give the dimensions of the sword? (Like in cm for dumb Europeans:lol:)
    Found that the real life size (if you go by the wiki articles) is to big to actually wield properly.
    MoeSizzlac likes this.
  3. MoeSizzlac

    MoeSizzlac Member

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    I didn't even think of a cnc machine. Dear lord that has got to be one of the next things I get. The sword length is currently 30 inches from tip to tip (76.2 cm).
    ReClaimer8015 likes this.
  4. MoeSizzlac

    MoeSizzlac Member

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    Just a quick update,
    1) I cut out the blade layers from the plexiglass,

    20181018_200439.jpg 20181018_212203.jpg 20181018_220653.jpg

    2) I created a channel for the LED's to sit in,


    3) I etched out lightning effects into the middle layer

    20181021_205414.jpg 20181021_214716.jpg

    4) I wired up the LED's to fit into the channels (Please note when placing the neopixle strips back to back, keep the exposed copper staggered)


    All Solders tested fine

    20181022_215842.jpg 20181022_204757.jpg 20181022_223732.jpg

    The blades will not get their final edge smoothing until all the layers are assembled.

    Will update as more things get done.
    Lieutenant Jaku and Sean Anwalt like this.
  5. MoeSizzlac

    MoeSizzlac Member

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    Well, when I last left off, I was at the point ready to connect the sword blades together.

    I Hallowed out the inside of the middle 2 pieces and placed wiring together.


    I hooked up the electronics and.....FAILURE!!!!

    While shoving the wiring together, the middle of the blade snapped and I also found out that the data and negative wires were crossing on one side. The blade will not work like this.


    Back to the drawing board.

    Let's start with the original file and turn it into a printable format using Clear ABS:

    02.jpg 03.jpg

    Dry fit the LED lights and FAILURE!!!

    The LED lights do not fit because it tapers at the end and this model has now becomes useless.

    Back to the drawing board. Let's design the blade from scratch using the first image as my base and the results:

    05.jpg 06.jpg

    A much thicker base to use for the LED lights.

    Breadboard all connections to ensure the electronics work.


    Time to hard wire.

    Kill Switch:


    Nano Biscotte 4 and the rest.

    10.jpg 11.jpg 12.jpg 13.jpg

    Glue and sand the blade covers. and the results are below:

    14.jpg 15.jpg

    There are 3 fonts to choose from, all with different colors that I can select. I pre-programmed all the parameters of the blades - amount of LED's, the igniter period, color, boot sounds, etc. Below is the extent of the fonts at work.

    That's it. this project is done and ready for cosplay/Halloween 2019.

    Last edited: Nov 19, 2018
  6. mkshane81

    mkshane81 Well-Known Member

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    Wow, extremely impressive work!!

    MoeSizzlac likes this.
  7. ReClaimer8015

    ReClaimer8015 Member

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    It`s so interactive!!
    How exactly did you do this?! The soundeffects during motion, on- and offswitching.....it sounds like the dangerous weapon it is supposed to be.
    The aesthetic would be even cooler/ smoother if OLED-Stripes would be available to buy costeffectively.
    And where did you get the sounds from?
    MoeSizzlac and Lieutenant Jaku like this.
  8. TurboCharizard

    TurboCharizard RMO & BCO 405th Regiment Officer Community Staff

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    A slightly more wallet friendly version of the Neopixel strips is the DotStar LED strips. DotStar strips are a bit more universal as well for controller choices because they can be driven by a variety of clock speeds which means you can use anything from a little $5 Trinket controller to a chonky Raspberry Pi if you have one laying around. The savings per meter between NeoPixels and DotStar strips are like $5-$10 which can add up pretty quickly.
    MoeSizzlac and Lieutenant Jaku like this.
  9. xXDashIVXx

    xXDashIVXx Active Member

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    That is awesome! Adv I love the on and off animation! It is such a great touch, and I love how it can determine if it is being swung or hitting something
    MoeSizzlac likes this.
  10. MoeSizzlac

    MoeSizzlac Member

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    Thank you. That is from the Nano Biscotte v4 chip you see below the battery. Took me more time than I care to admit to get the settings right but I ended up liking that chip a lot after this build. You can't beat the size and available options.

    I will keep that in mind for the next build. Saving $40 on the project is totally worth the try. That's 2 spools of 3d filament right there.

    The sounds and motions are handled by the Nano Biscotti v4 as well as the 27mm bass speaker that I installed in the handle. The chip just needs to be set up the correct way to respond how you want through a config file which is basically a .txt file. You get to control things like should it be an "instant on", turn on through the progression of the ignite wav file, color of blade, color of hit, and so on.

    You can pull sound fonts from the game, convert them to wav format and label them with the exact words they need to be based on what the board is looking for such as "ignite.wav" or "swing1.wav". I am lazy and downloaded some talented peoples work from saberfont.com. I saw 2 I liked and bought them. The Fonts need to be tweaked for the board you are using it for (remove/rearrange files) so they are not necessarily ready to drop and go.

    ReClaimer8015 likes this.

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