Halo 4 BR85HB SR (Pic heavy!) - First Major Project

[Chernobyl]

If it were me, I would sand sand sand, to try and get it as smooth as possible before molding. I hear that a poleshed surface makes for a much better/cleaner cast.

That's an issue I've had with props in the past. They look fantastic in the photographs and they're definitely worth the money spent on them, but the amount of work to be done with cleaning the item up in post-production can be a pain in the backside.

That said: as ever, it's fantastic work. I'll try to pool together some of the other resources for the BR85HB for you - I think you'll still need stuff for the ammo counter display and such. Also, I'll have a word with my tech guy about some of the electronics and see if we can't work something out regarding the sound, since I'm still personally not sure how it'll work out.

 

[RobTC]

Yeah, I definitely don't want to be putting all the clean-up work onto the buyers. That comes across as a dereliction of duty as a propmaker to me. Everyone expects some sprue to trim and sand, but actually leaving the surface prep work is another matter. Besides, it's good moulding practice anyway- all those little cracks and textures prematurely fatigue the silicone. Plus, I have to do it myself regardless, so I may as well do it to the master rather than my own personal cast. I think my surface finish plan is pretty solid though, it should be fine.

Resources still required (that I can think of off-hand):

- Ammo Counter screen texture(s) that I can split up into component parts in Photoshop and program into the LCD (and possibly look into up-rezzing and printing on translucent vinyl).

- Scope targeting reticle overlay texture

- Reload and cocking sounds? Not sure these are as necessary, since the physical objects will make the sounds themselves. Might be better to have on the chip than not, I guess, they can always be ignored.

Audio electronics is basically either Harrison Krix's dealer: http://www.replicaprops.com/Sound-board-for-props-and-costumes-model-1M_p_15.html or the DIY route: http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...s/interface-voice-record-and-playback/2556441 - Personally I'm more inclined towards the latter, because that tends to be the way I roll, especially in non-time/money-sensitive projects like the electronics section of this thing. It also allows me to control the audio IC from a master Arduino over SPI which can also interface with a slave Arduino or LCD driver driving the ammo counter, linking the trigger pull with the "shoot" sound and the drop in number on the ammo counter.

But for an "I am a normal person" installation, sending that guy some files and receiving back a ready-to-use breakout board that you can have your electronics guy hook up to an amplifier and everything sounds way easier to me.

 

[Chernobyl]

Resources still required (that I can think of off-hand):
LIST REDACTED FOR BREVITY - AND LAZINESS, WHOOO!

I'll see what I can do, and get you a package together at my earliest convenience - likely within the next 24h. If there are any other projects you may need resources for in the future, it might be worth letting me know now, just so that I can do everything at once rather than bitting and bobbing about with the file extraction program.

 

[STEWARD 0F A11]

That's rather creative and very impressive!!! Way to go!

 

[RobTC]

I'll see what I can do, and get you a package together at my earliest convenience - likely within the next 24h. If there are any other projects you may need resources for in the future, it might be worth letting me know now, just so that I can do everything at once rather than bitting and bobbing about with the file extraction program.

Oooh, oooh! I know! The Misriah Armory decals/stamps! The Winged Hourglass from the stock, the "MISRIAH ARMORY 22501" from above the trigger guard and the alternate size from below the scope, and the "BR85HB SR" from the front of the carry handle. None of those textures are in the file archive asset, for some reason.

That's rather creative and very impressive!!! Way to go!

Ha, thanks!

 

[Chernobyl]

I figured out the reason for not keeping the decals in the package - their channels aren't exactly set up correctly. I can work on them and try to get them functional, but I'll also provide a raw PNG/JPG version for you to use that should function in more-or-less the same way when applying it to the base model.

tl;dr: I'm an idiot, I have most of what you're looking for, I'm just a stickler for having files 'ready-to-go'.

EDIT: I have all of the files you requested save the machine-stamped 'MISRIAH ARMOURY 22501' decal, which is seeming to be very elusive. I'll pack up what you asked for and have it sent over shortly, but I'd recommend simply working on the machine-stamped thing yourself. If I uncover it, I'll send it over.

 

[Master Builder]

I figured out the reason for not keeping the decals in the package - their channels aren't exactly set up correctly. I can work on them and try to get them functional, but I'll also provide a raw PNG/JPG version for you to use that should function in more-or-less the same way when applying it to the base model.

tl;dr: I'm an idiot, I have most of what you're looking for, I'm just a stickler for having files 'ready-to-go'.

EDIT: I have all of the files you requested save the machine-stamped 'MISRIAH ARMOURY 22501' decal, which is seeming to be very elusive. I'll pack up what you asked for and have it sent over shortly, but I'd recommend simply working on the machine-stamped thing yourself. If I uncover it, I'll send it over.

If you're talking about applying the decals to the model, theres separate geometry for that, you will either have to detach it or change the material ID for those specific faces to the specific material.

As for the maps. The plan geometric shapes are setup like this: red=diffuse, green=specular, blue=gloss, Alpha 1=opacity. (you'll only need the diffuse and opacity channels). All the other decals that have color, only have a diffuse map (and possibly an alpha channel with that)

Also note that all the floating geometry thats not UV mapped, is there as lights.

 

[Chernobyl]

If you're talking about applying the decals to the model, theres separate geometry for that, you will either have to detach it or change the material ID for those specific faces to the specific material.

I'm aware, I just can't find the corresponding texture that corresponds to that material. It's not extracted with the rest of the textures, such as the numbers, scope, ammo counter, decal and basic weapon textures, and a manual hunt hasn't yielded any results either.

As for the maps. The plan geometric shapes are setup like this: red=diffuse, green=specular, blue=gloss, Alpha 1=opacity. (you'll only need the diffuse and opacity channels). All the other decals that have color, only have a diffuse map (and possibly an alpha channel with that)

Also note that all the floating geometry thats not UV mapped, is there as lights.

Again - yep. The textures display oddly in Photoshop, so I pulled the Alpha channel out for the purposes of using it as a decal creation aid. Bear in mind, the use of these textures isn't quite as intimate as what you're used to using them for, I'm simply trying to locate and apply the textures as a reference aid. But, thanks kindly for the input.

 

[RobTC]

Not really much of an update because interminable filling and sanding doesn't really require sequential documentation, but figured I'd show what's generally happening.



Couple gallons of Mold Star 15 arrived in the bottom box, I was going to get it moulded before ordering the resin, but I think I'm going to tint the silicone green for visibility, so I'll probably just order that all together since Amazon doesn't sell Silc Pig separately.



As far as I can tell, this is the final list of "stuff to do" other than surface prep. Some of it's been crossed off since I took the picture. Can't see much, if anything, being added to this. It's an incredibly short list compared to the last 3 months of work... It's kinda weird.



Current focus is the easy-to-mould stuff here, the mag and foregrip. Both boxy, both symmetrical and more or less undercut-free. Takes a long time to work on these things, I'm wondering if I might have underestimated the surface prep time slightly, but it seems to be worth the effort. They're gorgeous when they come up all smooth and shiny like this. And of course it's less damaging to the silicone.

I'm back and forth a bit between this personal work and the product commission, hopefully can still make some progress over the next couple weeks or so on it. The weather's been mild, too, which makes my life far easier with air-dry materials. Hopefully it keeps up, on and off.

 

[Chernobyl]

So, I had a small question and idea regarding the magazine and how it's going to lock inside the magazine well. I saw you mentioned something about magnets, but I'm worried about the use of a magnet so close to the electronics package within the weapon itself.

I'd figured on using some form of roller catch or ball catch myself (also, annoyingly, known as a Bales catch), so that the magazine will lock into position once loaded, and remain in position until a gentle tug releases it. Any thoughts on the matter?

EDIT: while I'm at it, is it at all possible or likely that I'll be able to use the magazine itself as a battery pack? Or will that require a little delicate cutting?

 

[RobTC]

So, I had a small question and idea regarding the magazine and how it's going to lock inside the magazine well. I saw you mentioned something about magnets, but I'm worried about the use of a magnet so close to the electronics package within the weapon itself.

I'd figured on using some form of roller catch or ball catch myself (also, annoyingly, known as a Bales catch), so that the magazine will lock into position once loaded, and remain in position until a gentle tug releases it. Any thoughts on the matter?

EDIT: while I'm at it, is it at all possible or likely that I'll be able to use the magazine itself as a battery pack? Or will that require a little delicate cutting?

A sprung ball catch is what someone else suggested elsewhere, and should work perfectly well- there'll be plenty of solid material to drill out for a resilient mounting location, and it's not hard to drill a small dimple in one side of the magazine. I may go this way myself too, since I also had the same concern about the magnets. Of course it'll require a flush-mount catch, since there's very little airspace in the mag well. That said, thanks to the inverse cubic nature of magnetic flux it may not be as relevant, plus of course simple sheet metal shielding can work wonders. So... maybe, maybe not. But it should be possible.

RE: Magazine; first line, ten posts up:

I've changed my mind on the magazine; there isn't enough room in there for AA batteries or anything once the walls have built up to a sufficient rotocast thickness for regular handling. So that's going to get stuck together and solid cast.

I measured, and it's really pretty pointless. Especially when there are so many far easier spaces to get into to add batteries upfront, and I'm adding cable routing channels as part of finishing work. It could be nice to have hot-swappable batteries via multiple magazines (well, not for me since I need an always-on display), but it just doesn't seem to be worth the hassle. About the only way you could do it is by using plain sheet-form lithium batteries, add a current limitation circuit yourself and build a custom charger. Since I'm pretty sure no one's going to bother doing it, I'm not going to bother facilitating that possibility.

 

[Chernobyl]

I measured, and it's really pretty pointless. Especially when there are so many far easier spaces to get into to add batteries upfront, and I'm adding cable routing channels as part of finishing work. It could be nice to have hot-swappable batteries via multiple magazines (well, not for me since I need an always-on display), but it just doesn't seem to be worth the hassle.

Seems fair. I need to pay more attention and stop glossing over silly things when I'm dazzled by glory shots. What're your thoughts, then? I can't really think of any spaces myself that would be easy-access, but if you have any thoughts that might make things easier, then by all means.

 

[RobTC]

Seems fair. I need to pay more attention and stop glossing over silly things when I'm dazzled by glory shots. What're your thoughts, then? I can't really think of any spaces myself that would be easy-access, but if you have any thoughts that might make things easier, then by all means.

Haha. If you're not putting in an ammo counter LCD, that's a pretty nice spot for a four-pack of AAs. Alternatively, inside the foregrip. All three of the major forward sections are going to be rotocast, so there should be tons of space for batteries if you're not cramming too much functionality in there. The best place will actually be inside the chamber, which has direct cable access to the stock and trigger, and has huge amounts of space inside for both batteries and audio circuitry:

Here's an idea of the space available. All of these parts will be hollow except the grip and trigger area, as shown in the other layout pic:





Those are AA batteries and Apple EarPods, a GoPro Hero 3, micro-size servo, an Arduino Uno and Pro Mini - the latter will be the Arduino in my build, since they're easy to stash pretty much anywhere. The chip on the foregrip is a 12V voltage regulator, the same format is often used for amplifiers-on-a-chip.

Like, this thing is HUGE. There's no shortage of space to stick stuff wherever you want, really. But you can see in the second pic that the magazine is relatively thin in cross section. These parts are the flat areas to cut battery compartment doors in, anyway:



Plenty of space!

 

[ObiJ3ff]

This is soo awesome

 

[WhiteWolfLegend]

Wow, I've missed out on a lot since I last checked this build. Amazing work, as usual. Truely a sight to behold.
Also, Holy geez that's a BIG gun!

 

[Chernobyl]

Haha. If you're not putting in an ammo counter LCD, that's a pretty nice spot for a four-pack of AAs. Alternatively, inside the foregrip.

I do plan to have an ammunitions counter - if you're doing something, may as well do it properly.

My main concern isn't exactly where to put the battery pack - it's more a matter of how easy it's going to be to access it. The magazine was my first option, due to it naturally being removable - otherwise, we're looking at having to figure out a system whereby I have the section with the battery compartment secured with screws, and removable when required. I wouldn't be too happy with having the carry rail as my compartment since the shape doesn't fit well to installing a removable battery pack. And, I'd prefer to have as much as I absolutely can permanently fixed to prevent the possibility of something breaking during disassembly.

The attached image should show off what I've had in mind, based mainly off of the things I've seen in the above glory shots.

I'm also not seeing very many places where an on-off button could be installed, save for perhaps the safety latch operating a clicking on/off button - I'm thinking of the fact that running all of these systems will get very power-intensive, and having the ability to power off the weapon will save a lot of hassle while on deployment, even when carrying around spare batteries for the weapon. It's going to be no fun walking around with the thing if it suddenly powers down and I have to spend fifteen minutes taking the battery pack out while out on display.

Come to think of it - if you could work out the power consumption of all the systems, that would give me an idea of the amount of space I have to take up with batteries.

Again, any suggestions would be very welcome.

 

[RobTC]

Thanks, @Obi-Jeff Kenobi and @WhiteWolfLegend!

@Arcanine Ha, yeah, exactly. That's looks like my general scheme, yeah. Though I have broken off the barrel now, but that shouldn't change anything practically, it'll be easy to add a dowel or two to that for a good mechanical connection.

Using the screw hole as a functional screw hole to a mounting block I like a lot, I may be stealing that one since it'll avoid having to glue the foregrip and barrel jacket together, which would be pretty inconvenient, really, but I hadn't yet come up with a good mechanical method. I may add that anchor block to the master and cast it in place, since those who don't want the removability can simply cut a hole in the foregrip or cut it off and then glue as planned.

Since the combination of the rear post, the V-indent and the cylinder groove can sometimes provide enough grip on their own already, I'm sure that one anchor will be quite sufficient.

Moving up to 400 grit wet sanding on the outside of the foregrip next, it's had its final shaping and smoothing, I'm thinking. A little bit of filling and fitting still to do on the top, but nothing major. I may use some matboard there as a shortcut. That'll probably be the first thing to mould in a few days along with the magazine and barrel which are also coming along nicely. The latter probably be the first thing I cast, in SmoothCast 305, until I figure out how I'm going to do the rotocasting (doing it by hand for all of these parts times however many kits sell doesn't sound like fun to me).

Resins and tints are on their way, too. All seems to be going quite smoothly! I hope I'm documenting and shooting ideas around enough, the idea is that this thread is in-depth enough for other first-timers attempting a big project like this to get a reasonable idea of the process going into it (though I'm kinda glad I didn't, to be honest!).

 

[ISU DPS]

This is just amazing! *clap *clap *clap!

 

[RobTC]

Thanks, @ISU_DPS
@Arcanine: RE edit, the safety should be quite easy to use as an on-off button. I'm just using it to change the display from saying SAFE/OFF (triangle!) to SAFE/ON, but there's no reason why you couldn't use it for another purpose. I'm designing it to be functional, so may as well use it!

I'm assuming that if all you're running is an Arduino, a small LCD screen and occasionally a small speaker, you should get at least a couple hours out of a set of batteries. Plus, there's enough space to add literally all the batteries in the world in parallel. You could also try squeezing them in the stock somewhere with the speaker, there should be some room in the front section if you carve a bit of the side scale out to fit in a 2x2 block holder. That way you can get at them any time, since the lid is just held on by magnets (unless someone glues it down, I guess)

 

[RobTC]

Random pics as I progress up the grits!

Resins and tints'll be here tomorrow, it looks like. I'm hoping to sling the first goop by the end of the week, maybe Saturday. Looking like the first thing will be the barrel, at this point, which makes sense to be the first thing I ever mould and cast since it's a pretty small piece and solid cast. I'm also thinking I'm going to fill up a bunch of the barrel since I'm assuming most people are just going to paint the inside flat black anyway, so the depth and cool little circle detail in the bottom is never really going to be visible. I'm probably just going to leave maybe an inch, which should be far easier to cast, and then people can always take a 3/8"/10mm drill bit and take it down a little way if they want since it'll be solid.

Foregrip wet sanded to 320 grit at this point, still needed some filling:



Gonna use a couple 2S 18650 holders hooked up in series to provide juice through a 12V regulator, I guess. The ones I have now are for the other project, but I'll probably just re-order all the same stuff assuming that works out. They're a little bigger than AAs, as you can see, but they put out 3.7V and run about 50% larger capacity. The tradeoff is their occasional explosion, but I think we have enough lithium batteries around us at this point that it's not really all that scary.



The barrel after a whole bunch of filling and wet sanding to 320 grit:


@Redshirt's JB Weld and file trick is pretty awesome. Hopefully this second batch does the last two faces of the charging lever, the first one only did one because I ruined most of it by putting the file in too early, having to clean out the file and having a couple of craters with one small useable spot.



Up to 400 grit:



Way more filling, more 400 grit, then up to 1000 grit and the final couple coats of (dark) primer. This is where it gets really exciting, since it's like, "realistic" and "shiny" now. When it all starts to look like a single piece of solid plastic rather than painted mixed materials, that's when I know I'm getting somewhere.



I'll probably get another coat on there, take the outer surfaces up to 2000 grit and then leave it at that. I need to figure out some kind of soft storage for these parts to house them before moulding and then library-ing them afterwards.

The barrel took up most of today, but I also did a fair bit of work on the foregrip and magazine, which are both up to 400 grit and final fillings at this point.

I also need to design and build a rotocaster, but that's not hard, I have a bunch of stuff laying around to knock one up with.