Halo: CE/Anniversary Hybrid Mark V 3D Print

Wayward Flood

The time has come to start printing my armor and begin the sanding. I edited MoeSizzlac's Halo Anniversary model to have some features that are more faithful to the original game. I moved the shoulder plates, made the chest more curvy like and detached the belly armor. I intend to get that metallic shiny green color seen below. So far I plan to sand, prime, spray paint, and seal. The tutorials found on this forum and the help I have received on discord makes all the crazy crap I intend to do with this armor possible for my 1st suit.

My first round of features to the suit will include:

Fans, helmet and chest

Quad helmet lights

Voice amplifier (might go with something else)

A 20,000 mah power bank with 2 USB ports

Armor piece lights most likely attached to separate batteries near the armor so I don't have wires running everywhere

Low density foam under suit or super structure foam

Strap system using Ashuraa's tutorial with snap on armor pieces using he4thbar's tutorial

Might go with M1A mag pouches for the belt. The mags are the same caliber as the MA5 assault rifle

Magnetic M6D R thigh mount. All hail RandomRanger's YouTube tutorials

2 piece torso that attaches on latches at the top and secures with magnets at the bottom (will be explained better when the chest is printed)

Maybe a camel pack

I am using inland PLA+ to print the armor pieces. I got my first piece done today and it took 32h! This is going to take a while....
The left picture is the tree support I pulled out. TREES RULE!! They're easy to take out and use less time n filament.
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Wayward Flood

I been busy in the last two weeks going through 2kg of filament. I got a Raspberry Pi computer hooked up to my Anycubic Chiron along with a webcam after a very small power outage turned my printer off and nothing else. Now I can reliably restart a print from the point it failed. I can also upload files from my computer onto it through my WiFi local network and monitor my print. No more running back and forth downstairs to get files for the SD card. I also resized the thighs on my armor so I can stand straight and positioned them at the width of the hip piece. Going to need some padding... It's not my fault the Halo CE chief has birthing hips!!

I printed a small piece for the top buckle latches and it works great. I might make an insert to better stabilize the 2 chest halves joining. You can see in Blender how I intend to separate the chest at the plane. I tested the rare earth cup magnets with 95 LBS holding force recommended in Random Ranger's magnet tutorial. You can see how they hold between 2 PLA+ walls with 15% gyroid infill and 1.2 wall thickness. I'll have to play around with them since they join like stacking pancakes and not that well side to side. By the sides is how I would have to place them at the bottom connecting torso areas.


Naturally the one thing I didn't double check in armor smith was the length of my forearms. I printed 2 of them before realizing they were 2 inches too short. The elbow guards didn't line up at all. Another filament role later and I printed them correctly.


405th Regiment Officer
Member DIN
I'm really excited to see how your magnets hold up the printed parts! Keep it going Wayward! Oh! also, what visor are you using?

Wayward Flood

I had my nozzle jam twice now trying to do this part of the print. I repositioned it the 2nd time. There is no way to lie this part of the back torso flat so Cura makes a tangle of tree supports on that bottom red area. This keeps causing a jam with my printer because I assume it eventually misses a suport structure and builds up filiment on the nozzle clogging it. I'm going to have to slice this so it can build on flat cut 90 degree edges. Before that though I'm going to convert my Anycubic Chiron to a direct feed extruder because I'm bloody tired of taking it apart, clearing the clog, putting in a new nozzle, trying to cut the bowden tube exactly right, giving up on that crap, BUYING and putting in a new tube from that pack, putting it all back together, then manually leveling it through 10 passes!!!!! I figured now is a good time to finally do this....

Here's my current printed stuff with the top front half of the chest piece with its supports still attached. I was going to model the magnet holders after the back top section of the torso was finished but now the direct feed extruder is my next goal.
20210127_165003 (2).jpg

Wayward Flood

What gloves are you using for your wrist armor mounting? They look like they'll match up really well with the build!
They are MadGrip Pro Palm Thunderdome Gloves. I2aMpAnT mentioned them in a post and I had to get them for this project.
That visor is sick, Where did you get it from? I want to look into getting one myself
It's a visor from BranfurhStudios. Figured it was better to buy then mess with vacuum forming and chemicals for the tint.

Wayward Flood

I'm finally back to printing again. Partly because I like to procrastinate and also because I kept finding new problems.
I ended up:
1. Changing the feeding drive and nozzle setup to the Titan Aero.
2. Learned how to rewire everything. I learned how to do it sooner then I thought I would when it came time to do suit fans.
3. Replaced the motherboard on my printer when it wasn't necessary because Anycubic support doesn't know what they're talking about.
4. Replaced the heat-sink fan. It is what caused the issue months ago. It wasn't powerful enough to blow a piece of paper off of it. It caused the heat creep because it was so weak and busted
5. Clear a jam after realizing the heat-sink fan was bad. This new direct drive upgrade is much easier to clear jams out of!
4. Currently messing with firmware so my parts (bottom nozzle) fan turns on properly with Octoprint. It has printed fine without it so far oddly enough. I'll flash new firmware to my printer after this. Anycubic's firmware on their website is defective but the firmware is good on GitHub apparently.

I'm currently printing the top back portion of the torso. The chip clip above prevents the filament spool falling on-top of my printer.
This time I split the back piece into 2 pieces and angles them on my print bed. This time I wont have issues with finding a flat surface to print on.

Wayward Flood

I'm back to this thread after another long period with more printer issues fixed. I started the widest print on my bed ever and it ended up breaking the hotbed power cable. Apparently they wear down and begin to break after a while. I soldered a new cable with a cable guide so it won't bend at extreme angles. Then the bed wouldn't heat up. Support had me replace the hotbed, motherboard (again), and a new power supply. Turns out the power supply part the supplied the bed died in the beginning as I tried to explain to support. They gave me a new one for free because of that though.

The chest is completed with my cursed printer!! I printed it in 5 separate parts. The bondo is to fill in some under extruding from an odd angle.

The top clamps and lower magnets work great together.

mags melted.jpg

Wayward Flood

My printer can rest now.

At roughly 9kg of PLA+ and 815 hours of print time my armor is done being printed. I didn't include failures into the excel sheet. I kept procrastinating with the sanding and painting. It's too cold outside to do it now so it will have to wait. I will work on the strapping system, electronics, and under suit during the winter. The helmet will use 4 key chain flashlights that will solder to a single switch on the side of the helmet. The fans will be controlled on the opposite cheek button. The lights have 3 levels of brightness that will help me not blind people with them. The blue tape is to mark were I cut the visor to fit for gluing it in easier.

3D Printed Full Pic.jpg
Helmet Pic.jpg

Wayward Flood

My straps are done! I ordered the right needle and thread then asked my mommy for help. We measured everything out and I learned a bit about sewing along the way. I later put in the fasteners found here. A few tests on a smaller arm piece I accidentally made and I was ready to do it on my armor pieces. To put them in the armor I ended up heating it half way in with a solder tool set to 250 degrees. I had to be careful not to go in too far or I would warp the outside with the heat. Sanding will take care of any light warping so its not a big deal. It was important I knew where my armor was think enough for the fastener. Another option is to make a smaller indent by heating the fastener up, take it out, fill the indent with hot glue and then push it back in.

Both work very well and if one pops out I can just hot glue it again. I had some trouble putting everything on at first but figured out the order to put it all on eventually. 2 fasteners on the back pack armor portion keep the shoulder straps together. I am not as maneuverable as I hoped to be able to attach on the front chest piece so I will need help with that. I still need to adjust the armor strap length to fit well. I made 2 adjustable loops on each extremity so I can adjust each individual piece for this. I just put the fastener on one side of the loop in the general location I need it. Foam will also help the pieces fit once I order some.
strap unbut.jpg

Wayward Flood

Its been a while since I posted but I wanted to get some pieces finished before I posted again. Painting has been slow due to the rain making the humidity outside my garage too high. Painting has gone much faster now that the summer is here and I have my process down. The helmet is done besides electronics. I also got the groin fitting system put it. I'll update about it next after I'm done painting it.

That visor did not want to go in. It was persuaded to with 5 hot glue sticks, burnt fingers, rubber bands, and lots of Bondo for good measure. It needed 15 pounds of force to fit into the nook in front of the mouth correctly. So i put 10 rubber bands around the edges then slowly hot glued it in while taking the rubber bands off one at a time. I'll add some black foam in the parts where the visor didn't line up later.
helmet (2).jpg
inside helmet.jpg

For weathering I went with an acrylic black wash method mixing it in rubbing alcohol so it dries faster and applied it with a sponge brush with paper towel pats. Very light sanding with 600g made the black wash more realistic. I then put a clear coat on top of that and the acrylic silver paint on the edges. I tested all of this on my junk piece 1st to avoid any nasty surprises. The rest of my paint is enamel paint. I put the products I used in order. The other pic is of all the progress I have made with painting and sanding. I plan to have all the paint done by July. Things will go much better now with the dryer weather. I also have a good rhythm down and I have my whole process figured out.
paint process.jpg

work so far.jpg

Wayward Flood

Everything is now either sanded, primed, or being painted. I got 6 small Christmas light packs and rechargeable batteries for each part of my suit that has lights. I'll glue them in along with the transparent PLA light covers I printed later. The PLA isn't very translucent so it does a good job at diffusing the light. I didn't want to mess with wires going everywhere or have to get another power pack since I'm using all the USB slots on my current one already. I'm thinking of cutting all but two of the blue lights off. I'm not sure if that will affect the resistance or something so I'll ask around before snipping and soldering.

The groin piece attaches with 2 nylon strings put through 7 hook latch hoops. 2 magnets on each side helps keep it lined up correctly. I went with this method so I could have some flexibility and sit down. All I have to do is flip the back up like a toilet seat and I can sit down while the nylon strings hold it in place. I haven't had any issue jogging or doing squats with this setup so I'm happy with it.
groin apart.jpg
shoulder lights.jpg

Wayward Flood


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