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pelletierm8
New Member
ok so cardboard can be ok for odst helmet if you say yes il be like a kid in a toy store.
ok so I try it.
ok so I try it.
slyfx369
New Member
Ok, maybe you guys can calm the little bit of panic I have running in my head right now. So , I went about building my pepakura halo 3 marine armor and bought all the things needed to fiber glass it including fiberglass resin. well I pour out the resin and its very clear and watery (that is question 1: should it be like that?) but I continued any way and some of my parts are now warped it was very hard to control where it went since it was so watery. I double checked the packaging and it is fiber glass resin so I am not completely mixed up but not some of my pieces are very warped, the ones that are not quite as bad are they still salvageable?
slyfx said:
I haven't used resin myself but from what I'm reading, it's desired to be clear and watery. You may have put too much on your pep work and that will warp the paper like any liquid would do.
The one remark that I have from your question is "where is the hardener". You don't mention anything about it so I'm not sure if you used any. If you didn't use any, then I'd say start over.
Otherwise, you may be able to brace the pieces to get rid of the warp somehow and put one or two coats on top with the braces inside as the resin dries and solidifies.
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Question for you weapon builders?
(A different topic - so I figured the double post was tolerated.)
Aside from resin, what is used to make the pep-built weapons (which are a sealed build) harder than just cardboard?
I plan on using mud glassing for the armor pieces because they are opened pieces. But for the weapons, like a grenade or an SMG, how do you make them hard (no pun intented but I couldn't find another way of saying it)?
I've looked at some of the topics and what I got was that people are using expanding foam. Wouldn't that warp the pep build from the inside?
Are you using standard (yellow) insulation foam used to seal newly installed windows and doors, or something else?
Is there another technique being used or that has been used that I couldn't find on the forum? (My fault - I did search for techniques - or not in the forum.)
(A different topic - so I figured the double post was tolerated.)
Aside from resin, what is used to make the pep-built weapons (which are a sealed build) harder than just cardboard?
I plan on using mud glassing for the armor pieces because they are opened pieces. But for the weapons, like a grenade or an SMG, how do you make them hard (no pun intented but I couldn't find another way of saying it)?
I've looked at some of the topics and what I got was that people are using expanding foam. Wouldn't that warp the pep build from the inside?
Are you using standard (yellow) insulation foam used to seal newly installed windows and doors, or something else?
Is there another technique being used or that has been used that I couldn't find on the forum? (My fault - I did search for techniques - or not in the forum.)
TyrDropProps
Member
Meleck said:
you could try cutting a smaller hole on a flat surface and sloshing some resin/bondo mix inside a few times til you get a nice thick coating
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Just something really quick.
When I print my Pep armor out, some of the numbers are so squashed together on the smaller angles and pieces you cant read them.
Is there a way around that?
Also for edge size..what do you recommend using so you dont have a huge pointy edge coming off the side of your piece to try and match up?
Cheers,
Becks
When I print my Pep armor out, some of the numbers are so squashed together on the smaller angles and pieces you cant read them.
Is there a way around that?
Also for edge size..what do you recommend using so you dont have a huge pointy edge coming off the side of your piece to try and match up?
Cheers,
Becks
Belakor
Well-Known Member
SSG Ender said:
You can decrease the size of the font for the edge ID to help with the squashed numbers, though that only works to a point, if you go too small (font size of 4 or lower I think) nothing will print. What I sometimes do when it happens is open the file in pep and use the "Check Corresponding Face" tool (Ctrl+K) and try to figure out what goes where based on the model on screen.
For the edge size I'm assuming you're meaning the flaps correct? This is what I have mine set to most of the time:
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drfunk1986
New Member
okay i'm having some problems finding where these premade cutouts are posted in. I'm trying to download them, and print them so i can get started on making my first suit. Can anyone help me? Thanks, would really appreciate it.
Bucketman717
New Member
Okay, I've read the Warnings And Banable Offenses List and I've got a question about something.
I work for a company that makes decals, generally for cars, that should be able to be used on armor. I wanted ask if it would be allowed for me to offer to make and sell decals for members to put on their armor. I know it says Sale/Trade/Auction threads are not allowed, but I think that the forum members would like to be able to add that extra little bit of detail to their armor to match their characters in game.
I wasn't sure if I should ask this here or ask Adam directly (or other moderators). If I need to send anything to somebody to confirm that we sell these products, I can send a sample decal. If I need to give any other information I'll be glad to talk directly with a moderator.
I work for a company that makes decals, generally for cars, that should be able to be used on armor. I wanted ask if it would be allowed for me to offer to make and sell decals for members to put on their armor. I know it says Sale/Trade/Auction threads are not allowed, but I think that the forum members would like to be able to add that extra little bit of detail to their armor to match their characters in game.
I wasn't sure if I should ask this here or ask Adam directly (or other moderators). If I need to send anything to somebody to confirm that we sell these products, I can send a sample decal. If I need to give any other information I'll be glad to talk directly with a moderator.
hellphoenix36
Member
hey guys, i've looked everywhere and no matter how hard I try, I can't find the mickey shoulder pads. anyone got a clue where they are?????
Boba Fett
Well-Known Member
Kinda an unusual question, is there any files to make a Mk. 6 Spartan helmet? But I want the numbers that attack to the folds to shrink as well. I'm ttrying to scale down a halmet and armor for a 1/6th bust, and a 1/16th figure. I build lots of models, and I so want a MAster chief in my figure collection. Or, can I just delete those accursed numbers? Thanks for any help!
TyrDropProps
Member
xXSTICKXx said:
Finalizing the shape of the area in bondo would most likely work, though you can also inject fiberglass resin into the void to create a solid piece without the removal of either the pep or the glass.
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how would i go about adding resin into the bubble. just drill it open and then por some in, then do some fiberglass over top of it orrr. would i sand down the bouble till its like there was no fiberglass in tht spot then just re fiberglass?
or woud it even matter would i be ablt to just pu8t bondo over top of it anyways?
or woud it even matter would i be ablt to just pu8t bondo over top of it anyways?
sirblood
Active Member
What I did is filled in holes/bubbles with a bit of hot glue.
The first layer of resin is critical after you fiberglass it. You need to apply it in small ammounts let it set, rotate the piece and continue. After that you can apply larger ammounts of resin without worrying much about air bubbles messing it up.
Depending on where the air bubble is, its likely to crack if you just ignore it. Like I said, I filled in my air bubbles with a bit of hot glue. They are fairly easy to find... press in on the outside, it will give anywhere there is an airbubble. The hot glue gun should work just fine for filling in the hole.
Drawback is if you intend to cut into the piece where the bubble is at for a seam line or added detailing. In that case it might be better if you sanded it away from the outside and added a batch of reinforced bondo. The stuff that has fiberglass mixed into it and you apply the red paste to harden it. Its messy, but works in a pinch for fast buildup.
If its a smaller piece, you can use that 2 part puddy they advertise that can replace coffee cup handles... Its rather strong once it sets. Cut off what you want with a plastic knife, knead it with your fingers to mix the hardner and then apply it however thick you want to the part in question. It works rather well, but it is kind of expensive if you want to apply it to a large area. Perfect for spot repairs where the resin has chipped away showing the fiberglass fibers. It's also very easy to paint.
The first layer of resin is critical after you fiberglass it. You need to apply it in small ammounts let it set, rotate the piece and continue. After that you can apply larger ammounts of resin without worrying much about air bubbles messing it up.
Depending on where the air bubble is, its likely to crack if you just ignore it. Like I said, I filled in my air bubbles with a bit of hot glue. They are fairly easy to find... press in on the outside, it will give anywhere there is an airbubble. The hot glue gun should work just fine for filling in the hole.
Drawback is if you intend to cut into the piece where the bubble is at for a seam line or added detailing. In that case it might be better if you sanded it away from the outside and added a batch of reinforced bondo. The stuff that has fiberglass mixed into it and you apply the red paste to harden it. Its messy, but works in a pinch for fast buildup.
If its a smaller piece, you can use that 2 part puddy they advertise that can replace coffee cup handles... Its rather strong once it sets. Cut off what you want with a plastic knife, knead it with your fingers to mix the hardner and then apply it however thick you want to the part in question. It works rather well, but it is kind of expensive if you want to apply it to a large area. Perfect for spot repairs where the resin has chipped away showing the fiberglass fibers. It's also very easy to paint.
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