Excellent!! i figured as much with the fiberglass but I just want to see what else there was to do to it, Thank you.
and for all. sources name for youtube anyways is xXBocephusXx. much thanks
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
- Thread starter 23Magnum
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Excellent!! i figured as much with the fiberglass but I just want to see what else there was to do to it, Thank you.
and for all. sources name for youtube anyways is xXBocephusXx. much thanks
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
KYgeLE88, welcome to (the) forums.
In my opinion, while the knife seems like an easy piece to start off with, I don't think it actually is since (like all Pepakura weapons) they are fully enclosed. I'd recommend starting off with a handguard, as they're easy and quick to build, and are similar to other armor pieces in that the reverse side is accessible.
For the record, it's my personal feelings that Pepakura really isn't the best medium to make entire weapons in. Sure, it's very useful to use to make sections of weapons to modify existing parts of toy guns (like NERF guns). However, I think entire weapons are better suited to be made out of "sliced" files (simply combining layers to form something), or shaping it out of wood or foam.
Regarding the resin and order of doing things:
1. Pep the part out of posterboard of similar weight cardboard
2. Put at least 1 coat of resin on the outside to stiffen the cardboard a little more so that it will support the weight of fiberglass. Some people will tell you to put several coats on the outside, but I haven't found this to be necessary.
3. Fiberglass the inside of the piece.
4. Ideally, at this point you use Bondo body filler to smooth out the piece and form curves, etc if required or desired.
5. Paint, finish, padding, and strapping! Finished!
Hope this helps, and if you start building something, you can create a Work-in-progress (WIP) thread where you can aks any more question you may have as they come up.
In my opinion, while the knife seems like an easy piece to start off with, I don't think it actually is since (like all Pepakura weapons) they are fully enclosed. I'd recommend starting off with a handguard, as they're easy and quick to build, and are similar to other armor pieces in that the reverse side is accessible.
For the record, it's my personal feelings that Pepakura really isn't the best medium to make entire weapons in. Sure, it's very useful to use to make sections of weapons to modify existing parts of toy guns (like NERF guns). However, I think entire weapons are better suited to be made out of "sliced" files (simply combining layers to form something), or shaping it out of wood or foam.
Regarding the resin and order of doing things:
1. Pep the part out of posterboard of similar weight cardboard
2. Put at least 1 coat of resin on the outside to stiffen the cardboard a little more so that it will support the weight of fiberglass. Some people will tell you to put several coats on the outside, but I haven't found this to be necessary.
3. Fiberglass the inside of the piece.
4. Ideally, at this point you use Bondo body filler to smooth out the piece and form curves, etc if required or desired.
5. Paint, finish, padding, and strapping! Finished!
Hope this helps, and if you start building something, you can create a Work-in-progress (WIP) thread where you can aks any more question you may have as they come up.
Hi, I've read and watched alot of tutorials, and I am planning to make a custom build by October. However, the questions that still remain for me are:
1. When applying resin, alot of guides tell me outside first, and an equal amount tell me inside first. Which side should I resin to avoid warping most?
2. I live in London, and I'm not sure which Fibreglass Resin products I should buy (Bondo is American, so I have to import it). I have ordered all other equipment for my Pep process, but I'm not sure which brand is the British equivalent to Bondo.
Thanks
1. When applying resin, alot of guides tell me outside first, and an equal amount tell me inside first. Which side should I resin to avoid warping most?
2. I live in London, and I'm not sure which Fibreglass Resin products I should buy (Bondo is American, so I have to import it). I have ordered all other equipment for my Pep process, but I'm not sure which brand is the British equivalent to Bondo.
Thanks
Apply a VERY thin layer to the outside first, then build up more layers. You don't have to do both sides. Just the outside is good enough. 3-4 layers is the minimum I would do.
Any fiberglass resin will work.
Okay, thanks alot, I'll probably do 5 layers on both sides. Better safe than sorry (This will be my first build). Also, When appyling body filler, how do I achieve the detail that some people have? Surely the body filler will fill up grooves in the armor, but some people still have such great detail (such as the ODST helmet's 2 groove lines on the top)?
I'll probably do 5 layers on both sides. Better safe than sorry (This will be my first build). Also, When appyling body filler, how do I achieve the detail that some people have? Surely the body filler will fill up grooves in the armor, but some people still have such great detail (such as the ODST helmet's 2 groove lines on the top)?Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
Okay, thanks alot,
In my personal opinion, 5 layers on both sides is a lot, and will take up a lot of time and resin. I did only 1 layer on the outside, and then just fiberglassed on the inside. If I'm not mistaken, the resin is simply to stiffen the piece enough to support the weight of the fiberglass. Most of the pieces are pretty sturdy already if built correctly, and with the proper weight of cardstock. The only piece where I probably should have used more resin to stiffen more is the groin/pelvis piece, which is pretty flimsy.
Regarding details, once body filler dries, it is extremely stiff, but can have details carved and shaped into it. Basically, you just apply it, sand it to whatever shape you want, then carve in details or sand more where you want. It's a lot of work, and the Bondo doesn't just do it for you, but it provides the medium for it.
Good luck!
Thanks! I might cut it down to 4 layers to save time, but I've got 6 and a half months until a convention in London, so I think I've got enough time to do quite a few layers on the armor. I'll take your word for the groin piece . I'm using 225gsm card stock to print my pep on, (apparently within the reccomended range of 175-250gsm).
ANOTHER QUESTION:
I'm currently ordering my Fibreglass cloth, there are various weights per metre, what weight (density?) should I get for my pep armor?
. I'm using 225gsm card stock to print my pep on, (apparently within the reccomended range of 175-250gsm).ANOTHER QUESTION:
I'm currently ordering my Fibreglass cloth, there are various weights per metre, what weight (density?) should I get for my pep armor?
Jade Sparrow
New Member
what materials do you guys recommend? i am looking to make an ODST suit... This is my first time doing something like this
Go for the heavy cloth.
You will need:
110lb cardstock.
small scissors or an xacto knife.
cutting surface
glue, such as hot glue or super glue
Fiberglass resin
fiberglass cloth or mat.
Gloves
goggles
respirator that filters organic fumes
1" paint brushes
Bondo Auto Filler.
Paint
There's a shopping list around somewhere. That will have more information on what you need.
Omega Ravager
Member
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/14613-Complete-Noob-List
This is the list he was reffering to, make sure to read up on the stickies, and search first ask questions later!
This is the list he was reffering to, make sure to read up on the stickies, and search first ask questions later!
Jade Sparrow
New Member
thanks for all the help
TeamBadGuys
Jr Member
Bondo:
I understand "Bondo body filler" provides a smoother surface after fiberglassing, making obsolete the sanding of the fiberglass itself; I want to know if the addition of Bondo also strengthens the fiberglass/resin structure. Does bondo re-inforce? Or does it warp/chip/break more frequently?
What Are the alternatives to Bondo (other brands of body filler)? And does anyone know what the Norwegian equivalent would be?
Resin:
When people in tutorials use pure resin on their pepakura models (without fiber), is that resin the same as the resin used while applying fiberglass canvas?
Why do the same people lay fiberglass and bodyfiller on the outside of their pepakura helmet models?
I mean, wouldn´t laying it on the inside of the pepakura give you a better representation of the overall shape?
Edit: In advance, Thank you and Sorry if old.
I understand "Bondo body filler" provides a smoother surface after fiberglassing, making obsolete the sanding of the fiberglass itself; I want to know if the addition of Bondo also strengthens the fiberglass/resin structure. Does bondo re-inforce? Or does it warp/chip/break more frequently?
What Are the alternatives to Bondo (other brands of body filler)? And does anyone know what the Norwegian equivalent would be?
Resin:
When people in tutorials use pure resin on their pepakura models (without fiber), is that resin the same as the resin used while applying fiberglass canvas?
Why do the same people lay fiberglass and bodyfiller on the outside of their pepakura helmet models?
I mean, wouldn´t laying it on the inside of the pepakura give you a better representation of the overall shape?
Edit: In advance, Thank you and Sorry if old.
Last edited by a moderator:
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
-Regarding Bondo: it's mainly used to blend any hard edges where the cardboard Pep pieces were glued together. While I'm sure it provides some structural reinforcement due to how hard to cures, it probably can't be relied upon as the only hardening material. Remember, the usual order is resin on outside, fiberglass inside, and Bondo on outside.
-Not sure what the Norwegien alternative is, but you should be able to find auto body filler in hardware or auto supply stores.
-Yes, the resin used on the outside is the same as the one used for the fiberglass.
-As far as I know, I haven't seen anyone fiberglassing the outside of Pep pieces. It's strictly to go on the inside, or else yes, you lose a lot of the parts detail. The Bondo however, is meant to be put on in a thin layer, and mostly sanded away, so you don't lose detail on the piece.
Hope this answers your questions.
-Not sure what the Norwegien alternative is, but you should be able to find auto body filler in hardware or auto supply stores.
-Yes, the resin used on the outside is the same as the one used for the fiberglass.
-As far as I know, I haven't seen anyone fiberglassing the outside of Pep pieces. It's strictly to go on the inside, or else yes, you lose a lot of the parts detail. The Bondo however, is meant to be put on in a thin layer, and mostly sanded away, so you don't lose detail on the piece.
Hope this answers your questions.
TeamBadGuys
Jr Member
Dude, that answered all my questions! Thank you! Spitfire22V for president!
Omega Ravager
Member
Walmart. autozone, advanced auto parts. And pretty much anywhere that does car stuff. . . I doubt you'll need 50yds (only if you're building one suit, a warning it's addictive fun.)
lol yah it is ive pretty much completely pepakura'd my whole hd mk6 suit in a month. i think im going to make a commander shephard or a helghast suit next. yah ive seen the little packages around all those places just didnt know if there was a cheaper bulk option. like costco lol
sk8almostbay
Member
Serepheth, may i suggest rondo? I have used both fiberglass cloth and rondo, and rondo is the quickest and the most efficient. If you do decide to rondo, it does make your armor a bit heavier that fiberglass would. And also no terrible smell...
hmmm interesting, hadn't seen that before. other that being heavier what about structural integrity? will it hold up to the same damage as a few layers of fiberglass. I have heard it takes quite a few layers of cloth to withstand airsoft what would be the equivalent of rondo, if possible?
sk8almostbay
Member
I'm not exactly sure how many times stronger rondo is than fiberglass, bit is is incredibly strong. you can stand on your helmet without it breaking if you rondo it. and with rondo you can sand past the paper into the rondo for rounding off edges/detailing. but to answer your question, yes, rondo can withstand probably a 500-550 fps airsoft bb. i know... i used to be an airsoft nerd lol You should watch BenStreeper's youtube videos on how to rondo.
You should watch BenStreeper's youtube videos on how to rondo.- Status
