How Slushcasting Works - Urethane in Action

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BlueRealm said:
Ever thought about doing a two part cavity mold.. That you can just inject the plastic or press cast. Much easier and you'll get cleaner results.


oh some one nneds to post a vid on how to do that!
 
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Adam said:
adreniline said:
Holy Crap, all I need to do is make a mold now, question though, will it be that flimsy always? it seems rubbery.

when it cools, it's hard as a rock.

Oh sweet as hell, I'mma make all my armor's this way
 
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how would you do a 2 part mold....? if its anything like making a plaster mold where the inside is a negative cavity in the shape of the item then wouldnt that make the final product solid plastic? how would you achieve the "shell instead of a block of plastic?? if that works well enough i may do that....

also i was looking into the putty like urethane plastic from smoothon and i got an idea....

have the piece your doing in two seperate molds and apply the putty to both halves and then put them together before they cure to make a shell casting.....you think that would work to avoid any seams?

or the same idea with putty just have the helmet mold upside down and apply the putty through the neck opening?? seems like it would work
 
You could set it up to be two shell halves, but that's a lot of mold material for something the size of the AR. But it would cut down on the amount of urethane used, so you wouldn't have problems with rushing multiple batches to get the mold filled.
 
idky but right wen u poured the stuff in the cast i got this weird pic in my head of a ballistics gel assault rifle,,,idk

nice vid tho

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ragtagsoldier said:
idky but right wen u poured the stuff in the cast i got this weird pic in my head of a ballistics gel assault rifle,,,idk

nice vid tho

Yeah, I always picture it being flexible.
 
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So wait, all you do is make a model out of clay or wood...then cast it with urethane in a silicon mold of your model?


:shock:

I feel like an idiot.

I am so going to try this...its expensive, but worth it.
 
I saw this awhile ago before I joined here and I've wondered one thing...

How would you get the other side of it to attatch if its already cured?
 
That is a good idea in theroy but
The more urethane resin that you mix will start to set up faster
an you end up with more waste. and room temp is always something to consider

Spartan 648

FinAeros said:
Hey Adam,
You might want to pick up some 1 gallon, 2.5 gallon, and/or 5 gallon buckets.
That way you can get enough in a single pour so you won't have differences between the two mixtures AND you don't lose any with slop from a large enough bucket. Although with each bucket the time to stir properly increases, so you'd need either a different mechanism or you'd have to make sure you can get it all mixed up within the material's pot life.
 
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True. This is because the polymeric reaction for polyurethane is exothermic AND heat driven, so the more you mix up the more heat you have generated by the reaction and the faster the reaction goes. There is sometimes a "maximum mix amount" listed in the information. If it's within that, then he should be fine and doesn't have to worry about his mixes slagging and/or combusting.

Given that he's in Texas and apparently doing this out in his garage, unless he's got it AC'd I'd say temps would be between 80 and 100+ degrees on most days. So, yeah, keeping the batches smaller is important, but I also recommended the larger buckets 'cause of how it spilled when he was mixing and not just because of the larger possible batch sizes.
 
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