issues with pdo file, no joining tabs to connect pieces

[fc3schick87]

on the fall out mask, and many other files i've seen i've noticed alot of red edges. meaning that they dont join.

i have come across an issue with the fall out mask. the eye pieces as well as the "gas mask" portion of the "nose" dont have any joining tabs

found here, link bellow.

what do i do to join these pieces together? they dont even really match up well either....

i'm using 67w card stock.


so the question is "how do i join these pieces if there are no joining tabs"

(I also have the separate .PDO parts in case you like to keep your edge count low.)
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NCR Veteran Ranger Helmet

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[Agent Arizona]

Your answer: You don't

Those parts "free float" meaning you would attach them after hardening, painting and all that jazz. If you look at the 3D model you can see its not part of the helmet. What you will do when its time to add the respirator is simply glue it on. As for the lenses of the goggles, dont worry about them. Just add a temporary support to it so it does not warp when you put on resin.

Edit: Looking at the file a little closer makes me think the respirator is not even supposed to be peped. I think the idea was to just buy one of those filters from you local hardware store and just add that on.

 

[fc3schick87]

thats so odd.

those free float pieces of the respirator dont actually fold up into the same shape as the actual mask part. the free float piece seems to help from the mask section. after i used hot glue to join the pieces it seems its taken shape much better.

what you said makes sense in the long run, but on this mask it doesnt make sense since the respirator suports the mask over all.
if i were to resin these 67w card stock pieces separate i would have a hell of a time joining them cuz chances are they wont match up....

this is my very first build. i wont be using resin on this or other practice builds i'll do this week. so this is just a trial and error to see if i come up with more questions.



has any one ever tried using something other then fiberglass resin? something less smelly, less toxic? just curious...

for example, elmer glue hardens real well, but it is not water resistant.

 

[Agent Arizona]

There are several ways of doing this.

You can pep out the whole thing just as it is in the model. This will work but could be difficult to harden.

What i would do is leave off the respirator and add it on later. You dont have to cut out the hole for it. This will actually add some strength to the over all thing. Then you can build the pep one or go out and buy one from the hardware store. Either way will work just fine.

There are more but i think those are to two best options. As far as hardening goes, if money is not an issue Smooth Cast 320 works well from what i hear. Its a liquid non toxic plastic. You might also look at Aqua-Resin. Glues will work, but they dont make permanent costumes.

 

[fc3schick87]

the smooth cast is exactly what i was thinking. 320 is more viscous then 300 right?
i rather not stick my head in something made out of fiberglass resin, even the resin itself is itchy and annoying to work with

glass or no glass resin is annoying imo. but i have to say , bondo is great. i love bondo and evercoat brand glaze. many hours working with that stuff.

i guess i'll just continue and once i get to the end figure out whats ideal.

my main goal is to build up skills with practice masks before i get to build what i really want, which is a hard suite from the anime bubblegum crisis. shooting for the stars here. it'll be a helmet similar in function to iron man helmet, 2-3 part helmet... joy....

THAT i want to make rubber casts of and use smooth cast OR if the design allows me to, i'll be vacuum forming.


oh, heres another question. lets say i am printing out armor for a shin or thigh or upper arm, and its larger then a 11x8 sheet of paper. how does that get printed using pepakura?

thanks for the quick response.