Props Jf140's Metal M6g Wip

[BFDesigns]

I strongly recommend shears over (ack!)cutting wheels. Or at least get a nibbler man

Also not saying to start over, but if you used a thinner gauge sheet, it would be so much easier to work with.
And one final tip, think about how pep is built, and use the same approach to this build. You can spot weld, then fill with solder, like old school cars.
You'll get awesome results fast!

Yeah, but I think he wants this prop to last for 1000 years so that when the aliens dig it up as an artifact, they'll think that we were more advanced then we were. j/k, but seriously.

That looks like 14 gauge steel which will last forever, especially with the full weld (which by the way looks expertly done!) vs. the standard 22 gauge stock that you can get at Home Depot which you can bend with your hands. Besides, a tack weld with a bismuth based solder around it won't hold up as well and as solder doesn't really like to stick to anything (even copper) and it looks unprofessional when it cracks off and falls inside. You could braze it together with bronze rod but then you have to worry about heat warping the parts, and you'd have to powder coat or paint over the whole thing when you got done because bronze brazing rod will leave gold lines.

Excellent job! Keep up the awesome work!

 

[S1l3nt V1p3r]

Bend Where???

See your red lines? You're supposed to bend them slightly inwards to give them a slight curve.

As you ca see in Wizardofflight's blueprint, you see that the front bend slightly inwards on the bottom.

 

[JangoFett140]

I strongly recommend shears over (ack!)cutting wheels. Or at least get a nibbler man

Also not saying to start over, but if you used a thinner gauge sheet, it would be so much easier to work with.
And one final tip, think about how pep is built, and use the same approach to this build. You can spot weld, then fill with solder, like old school cars.
You'll get awesome results fast!

well this is whats at school to work with. and using a cutting wheel does take awhile but no shears we have will cut that. ill have to post a pic of the cutter we use on it.

Yeah, but I think he wants this prop to last for 1000 years so that when the aliens dig it up as an artifact, they'll think that we were more advanced then we were. j/k, but seriously.

That looks like 14 gauge steel which will last forever, especially with the full weld (which by the way looks expertly done!) vs. the standard 22 gauge stock that you can get at Home Depot which you can bend with your hands. Besides, a tack weld with a bismuth based solder around it won't hold up as well and as solder doesn't really like to stick to anything (even copper) and it looks unprofessional when it cracks off and falls inside. You could braze it together with bronze rod but then you have to worry about heat warping the parts, and you'd have to powder coat or paint over the whole thing when you got done because bronze brazing rod will leave gold lines.

Excellent job! Keep up the awesome work!

I believe it 16 gauge. thanks on complimenting my welds but they really kinda have been sucking. since it is thinner stuff im having trouble with it melt faster then i can weld when doing some of the bridging so i always have a water bottle and do ALOT of grinding. as for lasting a thousand years....their gonna dig up one fancy hammer LOL

See your red lines? You're supposed to bend them slightly inwards to give them a slight curve.
As you ca see in Wizardofflight's blueprint, you see that the front bend slightly inwards on the bottom.

http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq253/j...40/DSCF1187.jpg its hard to see with the angles but i did bend it.

 

[LeeKegan]

Looks good and I agree the thinner metal is a lot harder to weld.

Can you turn down the power a little to compensate?

Viper, that area is beveled and he could do some sanding on a belt sander to get the edges beveled.

Great build, keep up the hard work!

 

[JangoFett140]

So i FINALLY GOT THE MEASUREMENTS its 2.3x5.1x15.5 on the inside so i might make a very thin insert that will also help keep the spring/plate thing in place.

In looking at the measurements for the ammo i realized some thing....THIS THING SHOTS FRIKEN AA BATTERIES. Halopedia specs out the rounds at 12.7mmx40mm, a AA batt. is 13mmx47mm...so if you need a quick scale check.....use a AA.

In looking at the slide I have decided to make this gun heavier........

. Reason being 16 gauge isnt thick enought to make a proper slide the will safely stay attached under spring pressure and look accurate. I dont need this thing launch the slide at people OR ME. So i have determined on eh side parts of teh slide to use 1/8th" plate. which i will then cut a perfect groove in( finally get to use a good power tool!!). This will just over double the weight of the side pieces, but i feel its worth it. Plus this thing need to last 1000 years

So i want to start cutting the groove for the slide and the heads needed to be switched on the drill, but since its old and rarely gets changed it was stuck solid so i wot get started till tomorrow when we pop it out. we lost the old adapter we made so i need o slap one together in the morning and well be good!!

 

[CPU64]

Besides, a tack weld with a bismuth based solder around it won't hold up as well and as solder doesn't really like to stick to anything (even copper) and it looks unprofessional when it cracks off and falls inside.

So auto makers have been wrong all these years??
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/projectbuild...r/photo_20.html

and as solder doesn't really like to stick to anything (even copper) and it looks unprofessional when it cracks off and falls inside.

Things I have soldered with a professional look, and have never cracked...

Copper
Brass
Steel
Stainless Steel
Sheet metal (including galvanized)

 

[JangoFett140]

Besides, a tack weld with a bismuth based solder around it won't hold up as well and as solder doesn't really like to stick to anything (even copper) and it looks unprofessional when it cracks off and falls inside.

So auto makers have been wrong all these years??
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/projectbuild...r/photo_20.htmlThings I have soldered with a professional look, and have never cracked...
Copper, Brass, Steel, Stainless Steel, Sheet metal (including galvanized)

I personally from what little soldering have do am more inclined to agree with BFD but ive never used the heavy duty stuff either. Im choosing to weld since i know it works and am confortable with it and surrounded by welders. i will do some brazing to on the mag base, but my first attempts only were "ehhh". so all i can say is to each his own.

To day i started cutting the notch for the slide. and as class got over and i had only a little bit more tried to pick up the pace a bit to much and broke the bit

so i didn't quite get a full path done today got bout a 1/4" to go. I forgot how LONG it really takes and there's 2 CnC machines in this shop and the one needs i tiny adjustment made and i could do this automatically freeing me up to work on other parts....but NO im not allowed to

 

[JangoFett140]

OK this vid would have been up earlier but the hd render that took an hour was to big for youtube so i had to wait another halfhour for the next one then up load it all. BUT NOW ITS HERE. first video update, more to come. opinions welcomed!

 

[sirfroget]

looking really good cant wait to see more

 

[JangoFett140]

thanks hopefully there will be a big one tomorrow.

 

[LeeKegan]

looks great. I like the video!

 

[JangoFett140]

well with disappointment there is not a big update today. it took most of the morning to finish trimming the slide pieces and the this afternoon i got the a top piece cut out and started on the bottom back. only to have the piece not line up so i will have to recut it. which is kinda a good thing cause they way i was gonna do it would have caused problems later. i got the measurements for the front piece and will cut it out tomorrow along with the bottom piece and maybe the mag inserts.....just gotta wake up early

 

[HeavyGunner]

This is looking fantastic! Metal is certainly not my field of expertise, but from what everyone is saying about the thickness of the steel, I would assume you're doing a fantastic job, considering the cutting difficulty! I'm really looking forward to seeing more done. But honestly, I would also be perfectly happy to see you take a year, and it come out even better. It's really great to see people exploring new mediums for armor and prop building. Paper gets kind of boring after a while Lol. :rolleyes

 

[chipscolaman]

I've never done something out of metal before, but I'd sure like to try!

nice work, if this comes out as well as I think it's gonna kick ass

 

[JangoFett140]

Well......i got some work done yesterday but today when i went to go school this morning my teacher and his truck werent there and and all the doors were locked so i couldnt do any work or bring it home. not that bring it home matters since i dont have a air compressor, air saw or a welder......so i dont know when i can work on it next i have to wait for my teacher to call me. he doesnt have a cell phone but i wil hopefully see him tomorrow at my grad party.

 

[Hb Avenger]

I think the idea of using metal is great1 It gives thw whole thing a look of reality rather than painting a wooden or pepakura and after seeing this and that grunt by that guy who's name escapes me right now I think maybe I might move onto things like that.

 

[ChuKoNu]

Wow really nice! I bet that weighs a bit!

 

[CPU64]

I was doing some weld work today and figured I could use the last few minutes of sunlight and quickly whip out a little sample of what I was saying a few posts ago.. Please don't mind the camera phone quality
[attachment=9885:metal_work.jpg]
All this was done very fast, it actually took longer for the paint to completely dry than to make the whole thing. Dramatically saves time and grinding wheels.
Going through the images (left to right)

1 Two sections of scrap metal, imagine this as the top/side of the laser piece over the M6.
2 Bent flaps on one of the pieces (like pep files) and drilled holes for the weld spots.
3 Welded parts and slight open seam.
4 Ground the edges to clean out any paint and dirt from seam area.
5 Seam filled with solder then smoothed down with a hand file (fine)
6 Quick coat of flat black to show curved edge smoothness.

 

[Haven923]

Great work!! Hope everything turns out great!!