Props M6C/socom Conversion Kit (Lots Of Pics)

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Ender007

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Well I made an account here a while back but never really posted much. I originally was posting this on my airsoft team's forum, but I've decided it share it with you guys. I started this project on Monday and finished it on Friday morning. I plan on printing this on a 3D printer, luckily I know an instructor who has one and he pretty much let design and print almost anything on that machine.



Since I'm going ahead with rebuilding my cardboard ODST armor for an upcoming Halloween airsoft game, I'd figure I'd use the appropriate guns, in this case the M6C/SOCOM. I've decided to use my Tokyo Marui Hicapa 4.3 gas blow back airsoft pistol, as it's the bulkiest pistol I have, so it only makes sense to use it.



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First thing I've done is draw a scale model of key parts of my Hicapa 4.3. The conversion kit will slide onto the bottom rail and lock in place via a bolt and nut through the slide release pin hole. I saw this done for a Hicapa scope mount, so that's how I got the idea.



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Building the kit itself shouldn't be that hard, as it's mostly a giant block with some cut outs in it. Nothing I can't do in Rhino.



Looks like it will fit nicely, with a few modifications of course.

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Here's a little update.



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Key mounting areas have been enlarged to ensure a nice fit without too much effort. The same has been done for the slide as well. I noticed I have a lot of spare room in there, I might add some supports inside there.



One issue I'm potentially faced with is the barrel opening of the extension. I'm hoping the bb doesn't hit it on the way out, due to the gun recoiling. But if it does I guess I'll just take a drill to it and widen it.



I expect to have the majority of this done by tomorrow. Got all this done in 2 hours, not bad.



1:35AM



One in the morning and still going at it.



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Stupid vent holes took forever to round the edges one by one.







Front end is complete. Next step is the large trigger guard. I'm going to have to make it a detachable piece just so I can fit it in the 3D printer.



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I've made progress on the Light and laser module. Still needs to have more details added but I can get most of that done by tonight. I've hollowed out the lower section of it to hold a small LED light and allow access to the button on the rear of it. My dad has suggested I put a laser in there, so I may put my small one in there if I decide to go with it. The whole module will be designed in 2 halves so I can take it apart and add the components inside.



The trigger guard has been designed to slide into the conversion kit frame. I'll decide to either screw it in or glue it in.



The rear part of the gun I've decided not to build. There's no easy way for me to mount it to the slide of my Hicapa 4.3. Honestly the easiest way would be to actually design a custom slide, but the printer probably doesn't print accurately enough to make it work smoothly as a key part of the gun.



Anyways, on to the good stuff.



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All the parts so far



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Another Update:



Laser Module externals completed. Just need to split it in 2 and hollow it out. Also need to decide which method I'm going to use to mount it.



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Close-up. I think I over did the detail on the adjustment dials.

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If any of you looked closely inside the barrel on the first picture here, you may have noticed something different. I added 3 supports to help maintain the the front ends shape, and they've been thinned out with a bunch of hex cut outs. Can't wait to hear what the gun sounds like after being shot through there.



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If any of you are wondering how big this monster is, it's at least 11 inches long total. They don't call it a hand cannon for nothing. I think my specs, or Bungie's specs are off.







Small Update:



The Light/Laser Module has been hollowed out. I've also added a small than normal rail to the bottom of the gun so the module will slide right on. I'm debating if I should design pins to hold it in place, or to use a screw instead.



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Good news, the front end of the kit is complete. The Laser module has had 2 additional holes put in it so I can add some screws to it that hold it together. Not really worth posting a new picture over.



Got some initial work done on the slide. Getting the dimensions right on the inside is going to be a bitch. I'm going to copy the 4.3 slide as much as I can, then I'm going to add to it to make it look proper. I've already run into one issue of the M6C slide, where's the ejection port? I've looked at both the left, right and top views of it that I can find and none of them show an ejection port. Looks like I'll have to fake it.



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Here's an update on the rear of the slide. I decided to mount it through the back iron sight mount. I'm going to have to lighten this piece as much as possible, which will be hard due to the size.



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Slide racked back. Damn this thing is huge.



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Alright I think I can say I'm just about finished. The only things left to do is add the little tick markers for the rear sight, maybe make that adjustable, and to cut a notch in the side of the slide so the safety lever can still be engaged.



The slide will be locked into place by sliding in from the back. Once it's in place, a small piece the size of the original rear sight will slide in from the left and be screwed down, just like the original sight.

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I've left this area somewhat open so I have access to the hammer by hand if I need to. This also cuts down on the amount of material needed. The white box in the slide is where the hammer would move through.

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Iron Sights. Sort of looks like a face now for some reason.

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Here you can see the additional holes for the screws and nuts to hold the light/laser module together. Doesn't look as nice anymore, but it should get the job done.

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First Person View

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Overall I'm very satisfied with this project. Now I just need to have it printed and see if it works or if I have just wasted my time.





Video of the disassembly process.

 
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If all goes well I might have the printing started on Tuesday, figure it will take over night to print, then another day to rinse off in the chemical bath.



For those of you wondering how these 3D printers work, here's a video I made a while back explaining the whole process when I was building a M4 RIS handguard.

 
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Here's an update on the pistol. I got the entire kit printed out. I left it in the acid bath to dissolve the brown support material holding it to the plate on Friday. I was going to pick it up today but my teacher wasn't there. I'll have it by the end of the week one way or another though.



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Walls are a bit thin, making them somewhat transparent looking. Won't even notice it once it's painted though. Good thing I added supports in there.

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The slide and flashlight

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To give you a sense of scale, the inside of the square where the model is built on is 8"x8"

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That's awesome you have one of those machines, looks like you've got a great plan so far. Can't wait to see some conversion progress.
 
wow this is amazing! cant wait to see it finished, by the way what program/how you didi it? the 3d model that is
 
beni5o said:
wow this is amazing! cant wait to see it finished, by the way what program/how you didi it? the 3d model that is

I used Rhinoceros 4.0, pretty much taught myself how to use it from just the included manuals. They offer a free trial that will let you save up to 25 times and it has all the functions. Check it out here if you want.

http://www.rhino3d.com/



Once I get the parts back I'll make a video showing the assembly process. Lets just hope I left enough clearance between the parts.
 
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Mind officially blown!! I don't think I need to say "keep us updated", you've been doing a very good job of that thus far.
 
What is the process used to physically make the parts? Some 3D CNC Printer? Just would like to know the technology behind it.

Great work as well!!!
 
JediStumpy said:
What is the process used to physically make the parts? Some 3D CNC Printer? Just would like to know the technology behind it.

Great work as well!!!



The 3D printer works like a giant CNC hot glue gun. The head of the machine has 2 nozzles, 1 with the model material and the other with the support material. The support material helps hold the model up while it's being built up. A good example is the barrel. If you look at it there's this brown stuff built up on it. It does this so that later on model material can be laid on top of it. Both the model and support material come in a single long thread rolled up into a large cartridge. The machine takes the thread and melts it, then lays it down on the base plate in lines. The model is then built up by making layers upon layers of plastic and support material. The whole printing process takes hours, if not days depending on the size.



After the model is printed, it's pretty much glued to the base plate due to the support material. This is where the acid bath comes into play. You simply put the plate with the model in the bath. About half a day later, most of the support material has been dissolved and the parts have come free of the plate. After that you just pull the parts out, wash them off and let them dry. Then they're ready to use.



If you want a video of the 3D printer in action, check out the video I posted in post 3, it shows it building up multiple parts at once by layering it, and all the other steps before and after printing.
 
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Awesome work. I'm so jealous of your 3D printer. Always wanted to use one of those, never had access to one.
 
WOW id love one of these printers. would save so much time haha. cant wait to see the outcome of this im gonna watch this
 
self-taught? thats incedible...proof that if you don't have a teacher you can still do something badass! now with this impressions of the software i will ty to do a concept armour
 
Everyone knows what caliber the Magnum is in right? It's the same round as a Desert Eagle. Nice idea though. I am jealous. My college has a 3D laser scanner so I was thinking of taking a KWC Desert Eagle and modifying the externals to be a regular M6D (correct me if I'm wrong). Nice Idea though with the TM 4.3. You might want to get a metal upgrade kit though, unless you already did. That extra weight is going to take more gas to cycle.
 
I'm seriously considering a metal slide, but then again metal on plastic doesn't last as long as say metal on metal or plastic on plastic. A metal slide will add even more weight, so high flow valves and a stronger recoil spring will probably be necessary. Once I got it put together and it works I'll drop by AEX with it and see what one of their techs would recommend.



Turns out my college CNC class also has what looks to be a 3D scanner as well. Not sure when I'll get to that point, but it should be a helpful tool. Should be even better once I learn how to bring my files over to a CNC Milling machine and program it, then I can have a full metal slide and so on.
 
And here's what you've all been waiting for.







Small key chain LED light installed.









Slide not installed yet, I'm having some issues with it.





Size comparison.





The issue I'm having with the slide is the small tab I made that slides into the iron sight dovetail. I can get it to fit into both slides, but it's too high up preventing me from getting the screw to make contact with the blow back chamber of the gun. I might have to have a smaller one made, luckily that wouldn't take too long. That, or I got to redesign the slide.



The front end was a bit hard to get on. I had to sand down the rails inside by a good amount to get it to fit on the pistol. Now it has a tight friction fit, no chance of it coming off unless I really want it too. Looks like I don't have to take out the slide release pin after all to replace it with a screw to hold the front now too.



The light module slides onto the rail smoothly, it's the only part that didn't need any filing. But I did find 1 mistake. I made 2 pins that would hold it to the rail of the front part of the gun. Unfortunately, I realized the groove I made for the pin was only on 1 half of the light module and not the other side. I'll probably just dremel out the other side.



Other than those issues it works and looks good. My main objective now is to get the slide working by using tools, or if that fails, a redesign of the slide.
 
bbbbeautiful! that is simply an airsoft gamer's dream... one question... where(in the web) could i get the hicapa? keep it up!
 
Here's the pistol I'm using, a Tokyo Marui Hicapa 4.3

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_25_71&products_id=209



But there's other brands out there that make them. My kit should be compatible will all railed hicapa's (maybe some 1911's) that use the same rear iron sight mount. I noticed the 5.1 has a different sight, and a potentially different mounting option, but then again I'm not sure.



WE has a whole line of Hicapa's in different styles.

http://www.airsoftgi.com/index.php?cPath=139_25_130
 
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