My first TWO pep helmets, need help for 3rd

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So I am at work right now, so I do not have my pictures up, but I have created two pep helmets and both seemed slightly warped. I used the MC H2 helm, the one in the pep tut, and used super glue to apply the pieces to each other. The model i used called for a full visor to be inserted but i left it out since i was going to put a motorcycle visor in. I think maybe that was a part that was crucial for the structure of the helmet, but i hear a lot of people are using super glue. Any advantages or comments about what kind of glue to use?

Also, which helmet has shown to have the best stability? I have one H3 helm printed out, but if anyone has comments on the good and the bad for each helm that would be appreciated.

Lastly, i was thinking that certain parts were difficult to glue right because i always start at the back of the helmet when assembling. Does anyone have any best practices when it comes to assembly? I was thinking of making the visor alone, then the face mask, then the back and sides and glue those assembled pieces together.
It's best to stay away from Super Glue, Something like HotGlue or Elmers is a lot better.

Also, If you aren't already use Cardstock over Printing Paper.

As for the visor, It's almost always better if you leave the paper visor in until you finish resining the outside of the helmet, then it should be strong enough to hold itself up. Thats when you can simply cut out the visor.


Whatever you print out, use it, they warp because of no structrual integrity, cut out the visor after resin/glassing then put in your motorcycle visor.
idk if this helps but i used hot glue and started with the visor... i saw very little warping when done... my major warpage came form resining but it was still minor.... but heh post pics i would like to see
I did figure that every part was crucial for the structural stability but I did not think it would warp that bad. I am applying cardboard pieces, from tostinos pizza boxes, to pull the helmet back into proper alignment and will use it like a test subject.

I have a small apartment and also a small daughter, so i want to stay away from resin. Any quality alternatives? I was thinking of paper mache then bondo over that, but i have heard so many people saying to not use pm. I will load some pics tonight of the first helm, then of the second after i finish using the cardboard to realign it.(another reason i used it was that i could smooth out the flat surfaces, kind of like that one kid who used the for sale signs but i used what was at the home. :) )
Glad to see your trying to fix the Helm... use what you have... if you choose to use PM, just do it slowly so as not to saturate the helm... the helms warp because you apply a liquid to paper product, it absorbs the liquid, and weighs it down warping it... if you take your time, and do it slowly, not the whole helm at once, you could do it...

As a side note... Totinos pizzas are having a recall right now, something about 10 E-Coli cases where 9 people had last eaten a Totinos pizza... you have a daughter, be careful, no one likes sick kids, they make me sad....
Paper mache can turn out well if you take your time... I did 4 helms in PM, if you want to see how they came out my thread is in my sig. I definitely recommend it to anyone looking for non-toxic alternatives.

I used super glue on it, a couple of tabs loosened up when applying the mache, but nothing that wasn't fixable. Spase is right, work slowly and be patient, I had a couple of spots that warped a little due to saturation. I'd recommend starting with 1 layer on the outside, and letting that dry. You can see when working on the outside that there are a couple of areas that will definitely buckle, and you've got to cut pieces of cardstock to fit and superglue those inside too.

Also, leave in the visor and the bottom neck ring until all of the paper mache is done, otherwise it will warp. I ended up putting 2 layers of maches on the outside, 2 on the inside, and a 3rd on the lower ring of the helmet on the outside.

Good luck!

Did you use newspaper with your paper mache? i wanted to see if there was any way i could just use the flour/water to harden the helm like resin then use something like bondo to be my layer before paint.
bjoiner said:
Did you use newspaper with your paper mache? i wanted to see if there was any way i could just use the flour/water to harden the helm like resin then use something like bondo to be my layer before paint.

Yes I did use newspaper. You could try to do without, but I don't think it would harden much without newspaper. On my first helmet, I spread mod podge on it (which is pretty similar to the consistency of diluted white glue or flour and water) to try to seal the paper and see if it would stiffen it at all... I let 2 coats dry overnight and it didn't do much except add a nice glossy coat. Depending on what exactly you're trying to acheive by skipping newspaper, you could use strips of muslin cloth on the inside, dipped in your flour and water, and then flour and water on the outside. Though I haven't tried that way, it seemed to be fairly reliable from what I read (I did a whole lot of research before deciding on my method).
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hahahaha i just applied my 2nd coat of mod podge last night to my first, too small, helm. i think i will use the newspaper idea but only for the larger surface areas, i dont want to fight that stuff in the small cracks. i did read an article about someone using salt to create battle scars on the helm when painting, might try that idea but i think what might also work is spackling and chipping pieces to make the helm "well deserved and worn."
The spackle will do that on its own, if you're not too crazy about spreading and sanding it. Then just use a small detail brush and put silver and/or black in the chips and it looks totally randomly beat up.
heres my first helmet, which was too small so i never finished it, as you can tell. i actually did i horrible job folding, this was before i read the post about using a ruler and a pen. i finished the entire helm, minues the mouth area and visor in about 2.5 hours.
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