Need help with my Thomas Daft Punk helmet

[Pav]

I just received the helmet online in a fully-assembled pepakura form. It was in a nice condition when I got it (some tiny areas are spread apart but nothing like a little of glue can fix.) But, I'm feeling the pressure with the process of making it a real, wearable helmet. I now understand that steps on how to resin and fiberglass it, but after all that's done, I'm hearing all this stuff about bondo and spot putty. Are those things necessary for a durable helmet, or can I just have my helmet in resin and fiberglass, be able to spray paint it, and have it be durable for as long as I wear it?

 

[Chernobyl]

Fibreglass and resin will make your Pepakura forms structurally sound, definitely. They're all you'll need to present your helmet in a wearable, solid form - however, bondo and spot putty are essential if you want to take your prop to the next level.

Don't ever be content with 'it'll do' - get familiar with the full range of skills you'll need to make your props the best they can be.

 

[Pav]

Oh, thanks. That's nice to know.

Now, all I need is something to use as a visor while still being somewhat cheap. What would you recommend? PVC?

 

[Chernobyl]

Oh, thanks. That's nice to know.

Now, all I need is something to use as a visor while still being somewhat cheap. What would you recommend? PVC?

PVC could work fine, if you can also find some smoky/black tint roll to go with it. Otherwise, if you have more time and the inclination, I'd suggest something thicker, such as vacuum-formed acrylic.

It's all down to personal preference. The visor is a decently simple shape, and shouldn't give you too many issues as opposed to a more complex concave/convex curve, so a curved sheet of any transparent/coloured plastic should work to your advantage.

 

[Pav]

Ok, I'm forgetting how to properly coat my helmet with fiberglass and resin. Do I first coat the entire helmet in resin, then put a layer of fiberglass, and then put another layer of resin over it?

 

[Chernobyl]

Ok, I'm forgetting how to properly coat my helmet with fiberglass and resin. Do I first coat the entire helmet in resin, then put a layer of fiberglass, and then put another layer of resin over it?

It's dependant on personal preference, but I've always found it best to give the helmet one external resin coat, then one internal resin coat, followed by an internal fibreglass layer. However, the number of layers you add is up to you - just remember not to layer it on too thickly on the outside, as it's likely you'll mask any intricate detail you've worked into the file.

 

[Pav]

How much resin do you think I should have? A quart or maybe a pint?

 

[Chernobyl]

How much resin do you think I should have? A quart or maybe a pint?

It's dependant upon the size of the helmet and the amount of fibreglass you'll be using. But, honestly, I'd suggest about a litre or so.

 

[Pav]

And, how much hardener is recommended to be added with the resin?

 

[Chernobyl]

And, how much hardener is recommended to be added with the resin?

This... isn't really something that's got a solid answer. It's dependant upon the type of resin you're using, the local ambient temperature, how much resin you're using per batch, how long of a work time you have on the batch you're making up...

The instructions for your resin product will give you a guideline, but roughly speaking:

Your resin batch should have a work time of 5-10 minutes at room temperature (18C/60F). 10mins is the extreme end of the scale, 5mins is a little short unless you're using the resin simply as a secondary 'roto-cast' coat and pouring the entire batch into your pre-hardened helmet to roll around and save time (and brushes) with brushing it on. At the end of your 'working time' your resin product will begin to take on a slightly rubbery consistency and won't spread - at this point you'll most likely not be able to use any remaining resin from that batch. Hotter local temperatures (sunny days/heatwaves) will make your product cure faster (and sometimes cure too quickly, causing cracking), whereas colder local temperatures (below 10C/50F) will most likely prevent batches from curing at all.

For liquid-based resin catalysts that come in a small vial or bottle, I'd suggest perhaps 1-2mm of resin hardner (1/2 drops) per 100ml of resin.
For 'cream'-based catalysts that come in a small foil pouch with a red cap, one or two small beads per the same amount of resin (these catalysts are usually red in colour, and a creamy toothpaste consistency).

Again, your resin product will have some instructions - otherwise, I would suggest you take the time to familiarise yourself with your product's mix ratios and work times, using my suggestions and the instructions provided as guidelines, until you're comfortable with your mixing ratios and how they'll affect your working time. Again, 5-10 minutes is the generic guideline working time of your resin from the moment you add the resin catalyst, so try to aim for that guideline of working time and mix up batches you'll be able to comfortably use within that period to prevent waste.