Need Help With White Paint And Black Auto Primer.

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FierceWhiteWolf

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Once again I have a question that I can't find already posted orby searching. I realize that I would have this problem before I started and its come to this point. IM USING A WHITE BASE COLOR FOR MY SUIT. This means I'm having trouble with painintg the crevices black with the auto car primer. I saw tons of video's where people used black socks to spray the black primer on,then wiped it over the crevice . I can't do that it seems. The white base color just takes that blavk in. It looks like $#!T . I have re done it many times and came up with 1 solution.



Use masking blue tape to tape of the area around the creices and just spray it in. However this too does'nt look very high def as it does on other suits I've seen painted.



Does anyone have an idea to detai it better? Oh and I do plan on using the metallic paint for the metal scrapes. Thats loock fine. But for the crevices does anyone have an idea on what I should do? Maybe somethign I can precoate the white paint with and then use the black primer? Or maybe you have a picture or video of a white suit already painted that I can use as a model?
 
FierceWhiteWolf said:
Once again I have a question that I can't find already posted orby searching. I realize that I would have this problem before I started and its come to this point. IM USING A WHITE BASE COLOR FOR MY SUIT. This means I'm having trouble with painintg the crevices black with the auto car primer. I saw tons of video's where people used black socks to spray the black primer on,then wiped it over the crevice . I can't do that it seems. The white base color just takes that blavk in. It looks like $#!T . I have re done it many times and came up with 1 solution.



Use masking blue tape to tape of the area around the creices and just spray it in. However this too does'nt look very high def as it does on other suits I've seen painted.



Does anyone have an idea to detai it better? Oh and I do plan on using the metallic paint for the metal scrapes. Thats loock fine. But for the crevices does anyone have an idea on what I should do? Maybe somethign I can precoate the white paint with and then use the black primer? Or maybe you have a picture or video of a white suit already painted that I can use as a model?



How much crevice detailing do you want - are you looking for "battle damage" of just line highlights? An airbrush could certainly get either effect but if you're just looking for panel highlights you may be able to use something as simple as a Sharpie marker. Kind of a large version of what scale modelers use on mecha/Gundam models. Another choice would be to use a water-based black paint thinned way down and applied with a spray bottle. It won't bind to the white like an automotive primer and can be easily wiped away. You will need a final clear-coat sealant when you're done but you should do that anyway...



As far as an existing white suit, look up a member "des0late". He had a great white suit and I know that there are pictures floating around here...



Good Luck!
 
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Hey in all the video steps on painintg I never saw instructions on a clear coat sealent. Tell me mroe about this step cause maybe if I prime in with white and then coat it with satin white, then seal it like you said. Maybe I can get the blackprimer or water'ed black paint in the crevices. What kind of sealent should I use? Any particular brand? And to answr your question yes I do want it to be battle scar'ed. I did the metalic scrapes and I think they are ok but I don't even know how to outline the arm gaurds. Why don't I just post some pictures cause I'm totally lost when it comes to painting this dam armguard.

100_0744.jpg


See on this hand plate the scrapes are done and it's got a first try at the outlines in black. I taped off the area where I was going to outline in black and I did it. BUT IT DOES'nt QUITE LOOK LIKE I THINK IT SHOULD. Problem is I have no idea. Can anyone explain to me how I outline the hand plates crevices in black? Or is it supposed to be prushed in? Am I supposed to fill the three circles complelty in black?



100_0745.jpg


Same with this piece. I know t6he incliens gotta be in black. But is there any outlining needed? I'm so lost and I'm not a great painter. Its not my cup of tee. But most of al right now I hate it that I love the color white right now.
 
for my hand plates I plan on completely filling in the 3 circles with black paint. then airbrushing to make the details stand out as well as battle damage.

If your having trouble wiping off the black paint have you tried a water based paint? This dries slower so is easy to wipe off. Also Ithica did a video on how he paints his armour by brushing the paint on instead of spraying.

also he uses vaseline to make the battle damage look.



I dont want to be rude but what I'm going to say next is just an attempt to help you.

The battle damage you attempted with the silver paint well to put it bluntly you over did it.Sometimes less is more.

The way I do it is spray silver paint on a paint brush and lightly flick the paint brush over the raised edges to make scuff marks and scratches but you have to be carefull not to over do it.

My suit I'm making it in the traditional masterchief colours but my second suit I'm planning on also making a white one but instead of black for detail highlighting I'm going to use a blue shade basically think of it as a ice and snow paint effect.Just a little something for you to consider if your not sure about the black on white look.
 
carnage said:
for my hand plates I plan on completely filling in the 3 circles with black paint. then airbrushing to make the details stand out as well as battle damage.

If your having trouble wiping off the black paint have you tried a water based paint? This dries slower so is easy to wipe off. Also Ithica did a video on how he paints his armour by brushing the paint on instead of spraying.

also he uses vaseline to make the battle damage look.



I dont want to be rude but what I'm going to say next is just an attempt to help you.

The battle damage you attempted with the silver paint well to put it bluntly you over did it.Sometimes less is more.

The way I do it is spray silver paint on a paint brush and lightly flick the paint brush over the raised edges to make scuff marks and scratches but you have to be carefull not to over do it.

My suit I'm making it in the traditional masterchief colours but my second suit I'm planning on also making a white one but instead of black for detail highlighting I'm going to use a blue shade basically think of it as a ice and snow paint effect.Just a little something for you to consider if your not sure about the black on white look.





REPLY. I don't see how your second paragraph could ever be rude. your right it is overdone and I have been told less is better but it was a first attempt. Based on both of the feedbacks you both have given me I am going to--

0. Whatch Ithica's video.

1. PRime everythign again.

2. COmpletely paint the circles black.

3. Get an air brusher which I don't have any idea of how much ti will cost or where I can buy one so I'm gonna have to research that.

4going to get water based black paint.

5. I'm going to work on doing the silver scrapes again. OH and FYI I had to make big strokes with that silver because the can I bought seems to dry to quickly and does't rub off the brush easily enough onto the hand plate. So I'm gonna look into fixing that.
 
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I'm glad you dont think I was being rude but some folks take offence when you point out mistakes they have made.



If your going to get an airbrush kit then you dont have to worry about water based paints as there is no need to rub off.



I purchased my airbrush kit from ebay recently for a total cost of £65 r.r.p £300 it came with the compressor two airbrushes (1 suction feed airbrush / 1 gravity fed airbrush) glass bottles braided air line plus extra's.

The sellers shop is ABSOLUTE-AIRBRUSH I'm not saying you should buy from them since the shipping would be pricey as its a UK based seller but you could always take a look for comparison.

The kit I purchased is not top of the line but for a starter kit its pretty good and works just fine for what I'm using it for.Also as an other pointer the gravity fed airbrushes are better for detailing work.

I tried the airbrushes out on one of my failed pep attempts (built 1cm to small lol ) I'm going to continue practising on my failed pep until I feel comfortable with airbrushing also as a further pointer when airbrushing it atomizes the paint so a little bit of paint goes a very very long way.

This site may come in handy www.howtoairbrush.com/ its got plenty of free lessons written and video and lots of usefull tips.



As for the silver detailing I used a metal protective paint called Hammerite.

Hope this helps.
 
OK - I have a better idea of what you are trying to accomplish. First, I think that you are on the money with repainting the handplates and starting the weathering effect over again. One thing to remember with scratches/scrapes - try to approximate what actual damage looks like. Stick primarily to the edges and "high areas" that would actually be damaged with rough treatment. Keep a scrape or damage line as close to a straight line as possible. You will rarely have a bunch of damage occuring in random directions - less is truly more. Certain areas would just be more likely to be damaged in real life - the closer you can get to that the better it will look. You can also layer "damage" with more dirt/weathering in multiple layers to give the final version some depth.



What I did on my armor was to pre-paint those details that are truly blacked out - recessed areas in the forearms, handplates, torso, etc. That way you aren't forced to "over-apply" the highlight paint in an attempt to get those areas dark enough. Once that is done THEN you can go back and add the dirt/carbon highlights. Spend some time looking at in-game models to see what is really dark and what isn't. I would also recommend searching for "mustard" or "toothpaste" weathering - you can get some pretty results with that technique.



As far as a clear-coat goes, I just like it as a final protective layer. It seals the paintjob and adds a bit of shine to the armor. I prefer the "matte" acrylic to keep the shine down...



Good Luck!
 
I had some trouble adding the black primer to detail my green helmet as well. On my first attempt, I only waited a couple hours for the green to dry, and when I blackwashed it with the black primer it turned into a smeared mess. So then I started with a fresh coat of green, and waited till the next day to blackwash. The results were just a little bit better, but there was still some smearing of the two colors.



I finally got an acceptable result by repainting the green base coat and waiting a week for the paint to fully cure before adding the blackwash. Paitence may be all that you need to have a nice paintjob.



Good luck.
 
Hey guys here is an update. thank you guys so much again for the ideas. I did not get the air brush like carnage told me to cause it was too expensive. I can afford it I just feel more comfortable first finishing all the armor and paintignt he base coats and the crevices , and then when they are all finish'ed I'll try that air brush mustard effect. Of course I will be looking at videos on air brushing techniques to get an idea of how to do dirt scrapes. All that aside I am still having trouble deciding if this is good or not since the acrylic paint still smears. BUT I CAME UP WITH A SOLUTION. I took soapy water and scrubbed it off where I did'nt want it. I have a video here to show you what it looks like. Tell me what you think, I feel like its good. But I don't know for certain. No video of the hand plate yet but that is soon to come when that primer is done.



 
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My only suggestion here is.......instead of using a cloth to apply the black paint use a small paint brush to apply where you want the highlights/battle damage then use a cloth to wipe it off. If its still to much then try thinning the paint slightly. If its Acrylic paint use water to thin



Ok I watched your vid again this time with the sound turned up ...firstly ow my god potty mouth lol



K so you have acrylic paint ..good thats a slower dryer. I'd thin the paint down first ..

Pour a little into a container then carefully add a litte water until you get a milk like consistency. Then using a small paint brush paint the detailing parts try not to just slop it on take your time.

Then using a clean dry cloth wipe it away using strokes in the same direction down go back and forth over it once again even when trying to make the detailing stand out less is more.

Using the wiping off method you are able to highlight your details and add battle damage at the same time.

As soon as you have the look your looking for STOP. Dont go back to it thinking maybe just a little more...thats normally the time when things go wrong and you end up adding to much.
 
wow I think you used more foul words in 4 min then i do most of the day...lol... But that way works pretty good, i used a paint prush for mine it gives you better control and you can put it on in thinner layers
 
Just a small request, and this goes for everyone making 405th based videos. Since a lot of people on here are "youngens" please watch your mouth. While it's not our job to be parents, etc etc, we want to try and be ask civil as possible.



Thanks for offering new techniques :)
 
Skullcandy Girl said:
Just a small request, and this goes for everyone making 405th based videos. Since a lot of people on here are "youngens" please watch your mouth. While it's not our job to be parents, etc etc, we want to try and be ask civil as possible.



Thanks for offering new techniques :)

Sorry that's my shop talk. Most of our family works in the prosthetic leg bussiness and work in the shop all day and deal with matters and problems that could only ensue violent outbursts from time to time. But I digress I did not know this was a community that had children and I sincerely apologize and I will remove the video. Thank you again for your tips. You should see my uncle. One time he got so mad over a back brace mold that was wrong that he picked the thing up and threw it across the room.
 
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