Official pepakura scaling thread

[CaelenVasius]

@FullMetal Reg: Dwoo had a thigh/bicep scaling table--I used it for mine and so far it seems to work well.

@wombat6926: SP= "souvenir"...Also, i hope you realize that for it to be wearable you shouldnt use the faceplate parts, considering youll have to put on your own to be able to see out of it...

Anyway, on my updates...helmets is being worked on at the moment, but so far dwoo's scaling table seems to work so far, as long as i trim the bottom. (all hail dwoo and his awesome scaling work!)im using scale 27.5 for my 25" forehead.

Also, since someone mentioned it, ive placed hinges on the shoulder and waist connections of the breastplate/back armor, as it was guite difficult to get on without them. elastice works well for the shoulder joint, and elastic,buckle works well for the waist portion. And now a question...will i most likely need to hinge the hip/groin armor as well? It seems so.

Thanks.

 

[wombat6926]

Caelen:

I left the faceplate parts in for shape support untill I get it fiberglassed, I have finished the 2nd coat of resin on cardboard
(one inside and one outside) The helmet is quiet stiff now and I have cut out the faceplate.

I had to trim quite a bit out of the bottom neck area but the helmet fits very nicely now.
I will add a pic later.

I hope to pick up a mirrored faceplate this weekend and put the fiberglass cloth on.

Wombat.

wombat6926: SP= "souvenir"...Also, i hope you realize that for it to be wearable you shouldnt use the faceplate parts, considering youll have to put on your own to be able to see out of it...

 

[daystar558]

i know this is my first post, but i cannot for the life of me figure out what is wrong with my scaling. i'm 6'1 and scaled peices for a person 5'11 seem to be gigantic on me. is me using halo3 pdos bad? ive read every single sticky, lurked for about a week, and still am lost. please help me id really appreciate it.

 

[CaelenVasius]

I just got finished building a forearm piece according to the basic scale table, and a question arose: the wrist joint is fairly tight but the elbow joint and the overall length is too long. I figure that ill probably need to rescale the final ones, but to what? Im 5'11" (71"= scale 25.0497907) and so far that scale has been accurate for the breastplate, shoulders and groin/buttocks armor (with a bit of modification to the former and the later; i do have a bit of a wide waist for my height, but as these pieces are fine on me, im not asking about them).

Any suggestions as to a scale difference i should try?

{EDIT}
Then again, an idea struck me: i was trying on the piece bareskinned, which could be the reason for it not fitting. So I put on my underarmor and gloves/gauntlets for that arm, and then tried it again. The results are mostly the same: the wrist joint is really tight now (almost too much so), but the elbow joint wiggles around too much even for the fiberglass/resin/padding to take care of, and the piece is much too long for me, to the point where i have trouble bending at the elbow.

SO the question remains: rebuild the piece at a new scale, or now that ive seen it with the underarmor, should i try just trimming it a bit? Any comments would be highly aprreciated, and perhaps when i find my camera ill post some reference pictures, perhaps tomorrow after i get off work.

 

[valdeztke]

I scaled my helmet to 25.3 and although it seems a bit "large" I'm guessing its the right size. My head measured 23'' all the way around. My head fits in the helmet with about 1.5 inches of clearance between the paper and my actual head.

 

[valdeztke]

I scaled my helmet to 25.3 and although it seems a bit "large" I'm guessing its the right size. My head measured 23'' all the way around. My head fits in the helmet with about 1.5 inches of clearance between the paper and my actual head.

Anyone care to comment?

 

[dwoo]

good job valdeztke -- got your PM too.

I say if you can get your head in the hole then its a match (not too snug though, remember fiberglass around the inside lip).

If it feels a bit large that is OK, look at my kids head's swimming in their helmets in my gallery.

Next stand in front of the mirror to see how your face will fit in the visor opening -- assuming you have the visor open. I did this with the kid's helmet to get an idea exactly where and how much padding they will need. You have to kinda float the helmet on your head to understand exactly were your head will be positioned. I don't think it is an even amount of padding all the way around.

-dwoo

 

[Seno Ypsamee]

What about the forearm, is there any formula to get that? I'm kinda chubby, lol, so that whole height minus 2 thing or whatever will not work for me...

 

[valdeztke]

What about the forearm, is there any formula to get that? I'm kinda chubby, lol, so that whole height minus 2 thing or whatever will not work for me...

Working on the chest tonight - Mine is a 46'' chest and 34'' waist so I have some sizing to do. I'm shooting for a 26 for my chest scale- we'll see!

 

[jtrechter1984]

I just found this site yesterday and its great. I was so eager to make the helmet i didnt see this thread....... sadness. I made the default helmet and its clearly sized for the real MC. It took me like 6 hours, well, i guess i'll try again.

Man am I lucky I'm his exact size/height. Not much I need to worry about!!

 

[wombat6926]

Ok Heres My Update:

I built my suit to a scale of 25, originaly it was for myself (I'm 5'8 160lbs) but now it's for my son who is 13, 62" tall 100lbs

See the pics in My album/Gallery my son put on the complete pep armor before I started fiberglassing. It was a bit big on him but mot as much as I expected.

I figure a scale of 23.5 would be perfect for him, as it is I am modifing this suit to fit him. The helmet seems to fit him and me both at a scale if 25.0 so that seems a good starting point for most avgerage sized persons.

The forearm was a but long and the wrist too tight ( as most people have reported) so I cut 1" off of the wrist to open it up and shorten it. I did the same for the thigh(s) and the calf's. The shoulders seem ok so I will leave them alone.

The shoes are deninitly way too big!! I dont know how anyone can walk in them with out triping or damaging them badly. I plan to remake a smaller verson at a scale of 22 for his feet. Do we have a table of shoe size to scale yet?

I like the idea of using elastics on some joints to make it easier to put on. I was planing to use velcro.

Wombat

 

[CaelenVasius]

@Wombat6926: im using elastics and buckles (small unobtrusive ones); they make it so much easier to wear some parts of the armor, specifically the arm and leg strucktures, as well as holding up the waist section.

Ive got a new question though...has anyone else a 24" forehead? i need to know the scale i need for my helmet, its one of the last pieces i have to make.

 

[Spartan 013]

wow this has really helped me! besides really ticking me off about having to redo my helmet i am very grateful!

 

[dwoo]

wombat6926: im using elastics and buckles (small unobtrusive ones); they make it so much easier to wear some parts of the armor, specifically the arm and leg strucktures, as well as holding up the waist section.

Ive got a new question though...has anyone else a 24" forehead? i need to know the scale i need for my helmet, its one of the last pieces i have to make.

My head is 23.5", so 24" doesn't seem extreme.

 

[wombat6926]

wombat6926: im using elastics and buckles (small unobtrusive ones); they make it so much easier to wear some parts of the armor, specifically the arm and leg strucktures, as well as holding up the waist section.

Ive got a new question though...has anyone else a 24" forehead? i need to know the scale i need for my helmet, its one of the last pieces i have to make.

Caelen: My forehead is 22" and my helmet is at scale 25.0 This fits me well. Try a scale of 26.0 or maybe 27.0

PS can you post some pics of your buckel and eleastics setup... I am very curious as to how you have attached them and where. The waist and shoulders seem to be the most difficult. I have read somewhere that somone used pop rivets to attach straps to his armor.

I am also still figuring out how the shoes work ??? any comments ideas???

I have bought a bunch of the camping buckels and webbing and plan to get a couple of yards (LOL) of velcro. Wish me luck LOL.

Thanks in advance.

Wombat.

 

[wombat6926]

I scaled my helmet to 25.3 and although it seems a bit "large" I'm guessing its the right size. My head measured 23'' all the way around. My head fits in the helmet with about 1.5 inches of clearance between the paper and my actual head.

Remember you will want to put some foam padding in there. At least 1" all way around.

Wombat.

 

[RadioactiveMicrobe]

I understsnd, but would this work for width too? I'm sort of a tall and lanky 13 year-old, and in the crotch piece, I could fit two of me inside the waist

 

[CaelenVasius]

@ wombat6926: ok, not having my armor done yet myself, i can only give you a diagram of what i have, i hope ive detailed it enough.

Im using 1/2" black elastic straps, with small black snap buckles attached to it. The straps will be attached after the painting layer, and secured with both a layer of glue and a small second application of resin. They will have been previously cut to give the best section placement possible.

All straps not marked with buckles are (obviously) buckle-less. after some fit-testing, ive decided that these connections would either be easier to put on w/out straps or that they just didnt need them at all.

As for shoes, the ankle stucture is very tight to get into by default (at least for me and my size 14 feet; i did scale the boots to fit me, and they do, but the ankle joint is a bit tight unmodified.) i have actually glued the boot structure (after i resined/fiberglassed it) around and old pair of shoes i didnt use at all anymore. I was about to throw the shoes away anyway, so why not? the shoes give your feet the support you need for the section, and by securing the entire section gives the area a great deal of stability. as for the empty parts inside between the shoe and the armor piece, i used some self-expanding foam from my weapon pieces to fill the rest in. yes, i did have to trim the shoe a bit, but like i said, i was planning on tossing them anyways.

I also printed out more layers of the soles, (6 total) to strengthen the bottom.

ill get pics of everything as i finish it (and as soon as i find my gorram camera...i think i might have left it at my parent's house...blast it.)

[EDIT] as a drafter/industrial designer, normally i would have done a better diagram, but i was short on time...from reading your post to drawing the diagram, scanning it, modifying it in paint, uploading it here, and typing out a message was only about 10 minutes...

 

[Killer Koala]

Would it be logical to scale your foot so that it fits well with your shoe size and then scale the rest of your armor to your foot?

 

[wombat6926]

@ wombat6926: ok, not having my armor done yet myself, i can only give you a diagram of what i have, i hope ive detailed it enough.

Im using 1/2" black elastic straps, with small black snap buckles attached to it. The straps will be attached after the painting layer, and secured with both a layer of glue and a small second application of resin. They will have been previously cut to give the best section placement possible.

All straps not marked with buckles are (obviously) buckle-less. after some fit-testing, ive decided that these connections would either be easier to put on w/out straps or that they just didnt need them at all.

As for shoes, the ankle stucture is very tight to get into by default (at least for me and my size 14 feet; i did scale the boots to fit me, and they do, but the ankle joint is a bit tight unmodified.) i have actually glued the boot structure (after i resined/fiberglassed it) around and old pair of shoes i didnt use at all anymore. I was about to throw the shoes away anyway, so why not? the shoes give your feet the support you need for the section, and by securing the entire section gives the area a great deal of stability. as for the empty parts inside between the shoe and the armor piece, i used some self-expanding foam from my weapon pieces to fill the rest in. yes, i did have to trim the shoe a bit, but like i said, i was planning on tossing them anyways.

I also printed out more layers of the soles, (6 total) to strengthen the bottom.

ill get pics of everything as i finish it (and as soon as i find my gorram camera...i think i might have left it at my parent's house...blast it.)

[EDIT] as a drafter/industrial designer, normally i would have done a better diagram, but i was short on time...from reading your post to drawing the diagram, scanning it, modifying it in paint, uploading it here, and typing out a message was only about 10 minutes...

WOW ! Thanks Caelen. This helps me out a lot. We think alike! I was thinking of a very similar setup but I like some of your ideas and placements better.

As for the shoes I was going to remove the soles and just glue the top parts to some old boots and fill the spaces with foam. I feel the soles will just wear out or be too slippery (unless you add rubber). I realize now the space between the front and back parts are so your foot can flex as you walk so dont make the soles too stiff.

Wombat.