Pepakura Printing Mishap

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erictank

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EDIT - New Pepakura Designer program problem in Post #12 - initial problem resolved just fine. Thanks.



So, say a guy makes a little mistake, and doesn't set the controls in Pepakura Viewer to show the numbers on the unfolded design for printing (a Mk VI Mjolnir helm from the Hub, in this case), and didn't notice that they weren't there until he started working on it in the middle of the night at work :eek . Am I screwed? Did I waste 15 sheets of cardstock on this, or has someone else out there managed to put one of these together without the little edge numbers to help?



I mean, if it's essentially unrecoverable, that's fine - the helmet's a learning experience anyways, I was never going to be able to wear it (didn't resize it at all, and I've got a fairly large noggin - this was always intended to make sure the program works on my computer and as a test of my folding/resining/glassing ability), so if I need to reprint it, I'm out a buck or so for the wasted pages, not a huge deal. A full set of armor will cost me a few hundred to make, most likely, so another buck is nothing. Just want to know if I should bother continuing with the pen scoring and cutting, really.
 
erictank said:
So, say a guy makes a little mistake, and doesn't set the controls in Pepakura Viewer to show the numbers on the unfolded design for printing (a Mk VI Mjolnir helm from the Hub, in this case), and didn't notice that they weren't there until he started working on it in the middle of the night at work :eek . Am I screwed? Did I waste 15 sheets of cardstock on this, or has someone else out there managed to put one of these together without the little edge numbers to help?



I mean, if it's essentially unrecoverable, that's fine - the helmet's a learning experience anyways, I was never going to be able to wear it (didn't resize it at all, and I've got a fairly large noggin - this was always intended to make sure the program works on my computer and as a test of my folding/resining/glassing ability), so if I need to reprint it, I'm out a buck or so for the wasted pages, not a huge deal. A full set of armor will cost me a few hundred to make, most likely, so another buck is nothing. Just want to know if I should bother continuing with the pen scoring and cutting, really.

Download the Pepakura Designer 3 not pepakura viewer. Its still free, and there are alot more options and features with it like scaling. So then you will pretty much be set to do everything you need to, you just got the wrong program.



Hope i could help



here is the link



Left side >

Downloads >

Pepakura Designer >

Download Pep Designer 3.07

???

Profit!
 
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if you're asking if its still possible to build it without the numbers on the tabs...than...yes it is...



you'll just have to sit in front of your computer while you do it and match each piece up



if you hover over an edge in the 2d panel of pepakura viewer it will show you what edge it joins on to....



it'll take longer but it is entirely possible....
 
So you haven't cut anything yet, right? There's a back side to your papers. Reprint the parts on the backside and you should be good to go, only having wasted a bit of ink which you would've wasted anyway if you go for new papers.



The alternative, probably more expensive method if you see time as money, would be to pep in front of the computer. Check the parts on your paper with the ones on the screen, and only cut and glue one piece at a time.
 
AceHigh said:
So you haven't cut anything yet, right? There's a back side to your papers. Reprint the parts on the backside and you should be good to go, only having wasted a bit of ink which you would've wasted anyway if you go for new papers.



The alternative, probably more expensive method if you see time as money, would be to pep in front of the computer. Check the parts on your paper with the ones on the screen, and only cut and glue one piece at a time.



^^agree.



i just flipped the paper over when i made the same mistake you made.
 
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Thanks for the quick replies, guys.



I'd cut one page, just because I had already started pen-scoring it and have nothing better to do tonight, but hadn't thought about just turning the pages over and reprinting :doh:. Thanks! Based on your advice, I think it'd be a better use of my time to just reprint the pages with the numbers turned on - using the backs of the uncut sheets, I only need one fresh page anyways, but I'd have done it if I needed to use all fresh pages, I think, just because it really doesn't look like a particularly-intuitive assembly, and it'd waste too much time I could spend more productively. Guess I was just kind of hoping someone might chime in and say, "Oh, no, it goes together like a dream, you really don't need those numbers!" Yeah, right. :lol



Col. Keller, I'm about 95% certain that I actually downloaded the Designer program, rather than the Viewer - I'm not in front of my home computer, and misremembered what it was called. The link you provided looks like the page I downloaded from, anyways, but I'll check and make sure when I go to reprint the file anyways. Thanks.
 
I did my first pep model without the numbers. Mind you, I left out 2 pieces by accident. It's not that hard, you just have to look at the 2D window to match the bits up. Good Luck
 
shmalofan said:
^^agree.



i just flipped the paper over when i made the same mistake you made.



Agreed. This is an easy fix.



Step 1: Find a marker or a highlighter

Step 2: Take the misprinted pages and mark through the pieces. This helps ensure you don't cut out the wrong pieces later.

Step 3: Print correct pieces on the clean side of the paper

Step 4: Get pepping
 
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Kaya Tetsu said:
Step 1: Find a marker or a highlighter

Step 2: Take the misprinted pages and mark through the pieces. This helps ensure you don't cut out the wrong pieces later.

Or you could just not cut out the parts that are lacking numbers, since that was the problem in the first place.
 
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I pepped my ODST chest piece without the numbers or looking at my computer.



Didn't mess it up either, after working with pepakura models for about a year and a half I have almost gotten used to the angles enough to guess work it.



I wouldn't recommend trying it though :lol , a piece or two took a bit of consideration before I figured out their proper places.
 
Rather than post a new thread, since this is kind of related...



Okay, reprinting the Mk VI helmet went just fine - I found the control to turn on numbering, and after adjusting the numbering font size, got a good set of helmet pages. I then figured, "Hey, since I'm right here and all, let's do an Iron Man helmet too - that way David (my stepson) can have the Mk VI helm after I'm done, and Alison (his sister), who likes Iron Man, can have one SHE likes." No problem, allowing for my presumed ability to actually MAKE these things. Anyhow, I go to print Sharkhead's and DuBean's newly-posted IM helm, and ... nothing. I look at the task bar and see a Windows message, which turns out to be a message that the print spooler has decided to stop working for some reason. ??? So, I spend a while figuring out how to restart it, walk through the procedure, discover that Pep Designer won't permit restarting it with the program still open and restart THAT, and try again - and the same thing happens again. ?!?!? Frustrated, I try another of the IM helm files I grabbed. Same problem, and again for each of the four IM helm files I have. Getting REALLY torqued now. Load up the War Machine helmet (only have one of those files) and print - and I hear the print head spin up. Cool. Pull the first page off the printer, and see that laid over top of the design and numbers is a fine grid (maybe 0.5mm between lines?) of diagonal-mesh lines, rendering the design utterly unusable - and the second page coming out is the same way. So I stop that print and try to regroup a little bit. Let's see, it worked fine with the Mk VI helm, let's see if it'll mess up on that one now? Print the first page there, and that's perfect. Okay, what's going on here?



Anyone else have any similar problems? I mean, I've got the Mjolnir helm to work on for practice, but I do eventually want to start on IM stuff too, and don't want to buy a program (Pep Designer) which doesn't work right for me for some reason. Will have to try it on my laptop this week, as it's currently loaded on the desktop downstairs, but I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced similar problems and maybe can advise me? Why would it out the Mk VI helm with no problems, trip off the print spooler for every IM helm file, and put a tight grid over the printout of the War Machine file?



Downstairs comp is Core 2 Duo, 2.33GHz, 2 GB RAM, >100GB remaining on hard drive, running Win Vista Home Premium 32-bit, attached to the home network router by Ethernet cable.

Upstairs is an Athlon equivalent to C2D, ~ the same speed, 4 GB RAM, ~100GB left on HDD, Win Vista Home Premium 64-bit, attached to the network via "N" Wi-Fi.

I've got a netbook running Win7, but don't see a reason to try Pep Designer on it... :)
 
Well, I'm not sure why Pep Designer hates me, but I've at least gotten the workaround to work. I confirmed the problem this morning, so it was repeatable (only trips the spooler off on IM files, for some reason), uninstalled/deleted the program, went to the website and grabbed another copy and reinstalled, tried it again, and had a DIFFERENT problem. It started printing just fine, but despite having the bitmap lines option selected, when I told it to print out the whole file at once, it only printed the numbers - no lines at all. Printed a single page after playing with print options, and it worked just fine, retried multiple pages at once and got just numbers again, so I ended up just printing it a page at a time. ??? At least I've got my practice files printed out, finally.



Sharkhead/DuBean, if you happen to see this (since I'm a noob still, last time I tried PMing someone, it wouldn't let me), on page 11 of your new hi-def helmet there were a couple of part overlaps. All the part info was still there, and there's enough room on the page to adjust them to clear the interference.
 
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