Reach: An Lt Wip

xavierjer · Dec 23, 2009

helmet is looking really good. What are you planning to do for the visor?

Brandon McClain · Dec 23, 2009

I am going to vac form the visor. I will soften the curve on this one, add a few details, cut it from the helm and use that as a buck to form from. I am still up in the air as to get the gold color. I have seen a few threads on it, but am going to look into some other options.

LMNOspartan · Dec 23, 2009

Earlier you mentioned slush casting the rondo... Can you do that?

ImaGonnaGetYou · Dec 23, 2009

Lmnospartan said:
Earlier you mentioned slush casting the rondo... Can you do that?

Yes, depending on the amount of resin you mix with bondo, it can have a high enough viscosity to slush cast a helmet with (think of JediStumpy's smoothcasting tutorial). It's extremely sturdy from what I've been told.

Brandon McClain · Dec 23, 2009

I mixed the rondo at 1 to 1, and it worked just fine. The set up time depends on how much hardener you use, and if you add any heat to the equation. I used a lot, so mine set up fairly quickly, not so fast you couldn't work with it, but enough so that you weren't held up by waiting for cure times. I used a blow dryer to speed up the process once I had it all in so that it would eliminate a lot of the smell. As far as sturdy, its rock solid. I mean, I would break my hand punching it before it broke. The only draw back is that it is heavy. I could have gone with one layer of mudglassing, but I did two to be safe. Next time, I would only do one layer and wouldn't resin the inside first, but that's me. Did a bunch more bondo work today, the top is pretty much done. Bought the professional grade bondo, and its a MILLION times better. It is smoother, and it sands a ton easier. I will never use the other stuff ever again. It was worth the extra two dollars a quart, hands down. I took some pictures, but they don't show much of a difference, and the lighting isn't great. I will do a bunch more tomorrow and post pics then for the 'pics or it didn't happen' nazis. There are a lot of little details and what not missed in the pep file, and some things that aren't quite accurate, but they are almost easier to do with bondo. Almost. Y'all will see once I am done.

rvb18 · Dec 23, 2009

ImaGonnaGetYou said:
Yes, depending on the amount of resin you mix with bondo, it can have a high enough viscosity to slush cast a helmet with (think of JediStumpy's smoothcasting tutorial). It's extremely sturdy from what I've been told.

oh yeah you can do that all day, did that on my odst shoulder, helmet, and some of the chest. might wanna add fiber glass in with it for extra strength, but i ran right into a header with my helmet on and nothing. not one chip, dent, or crack.

Brandon McClain · Dec 23, 2009

Quick update. I decided to give it a bit more sanding tonight. I wrapped up the top half for the most part except sharpening the edges of the recessed portions. That will happen with foamies tomorrow. For now here are some pics. The first 3 are from this afternoon, finished the very top and built up some side portions. Last couple are all done tonight. There are a few small pits, but for the most part, she is smooth as a babies bottom. I wet sanded at 150 grit, and will be able to clean it up a bunch once the sandable primer is on. So here you go:

bboyfresco · Dec 23, 2009

amazing work so far man!

just one question. did you use a higher quality body filler once you got the areas you needed covered with the pink filler (bondo)?

just wondering the difference.

Minkyboi · Dec 23, 2009

wow this project has been amazing and in so little time too!

cant wait to see it finished

sirfroget · Dec 23, 2009

it looks assume what electronics are you going to add inside or are you not you know i think it is mark 5 and if you look at the concept art there are similarity and to the halo 1 helmet its the same its just missing the flaps on the top front of the helmet

Brandon McClain · Dec 23, 2009

Yeah, I used professional grade bondo this time around. It was my first time using it. I will never go back to the regular. Its phenomenal.

Edit: As far as electronics go, it doesn't look like there are any lights on the side, but I will be puttin fans in. I will cut the recessed details on the chin, add mesh, and put the fans behind there. If we get some more screen shots that shows lights anywhere I will add leds, but for now, nothing really in the works but the fans.

bboyfresco · Dec 23, 2009

I knew it must have been the good stuff.

Thanks for the reply

The results must give fewer air pockets and finishes cleaner

I think I'll have to try that stuff.

oh also is it bondo premium gold?

Brandon McClain · Dec 23, 2009

I can't recommend it enough. It was a lot easier to work with, even as it started to harden, you could still pull it smooth with a clean tool. It went on wonderfully, and sanding was a dream. It didn't almost break my arm to smooth an area. 60 grit just powers thru. It really wasn't that much more expensive either. The can looks pretty much the same, it just says professional grade, rather than regular or lightweight.

bboyfresco · Dec 23, 2009

yeah man I hate using bondo, thats why I wanted to use clay then just mold it.

I"ve seen that gold version but wasn't sure how much better it could have been, thanks for the mini review.

I will definitely try it out on my stuff.

ODST 276 · Dec 24, 2009

It's looking great!Can't wait to see it finished!

TheBradinatorrr · Dec 24, 2009

amazing... amazing! ill have to give this a try!

odstsniper808 · Dec 24, 2009

nice man looks like mine just probably more detailed. very cool though

AlexSpartan177 · Dec 24, 2009

Awesome Job, Dude

i think you are gonna be the first person to finish a reach costume.

Keep it up!!!

Brandon McClain · Dec 25, 2009

Well, I spent a good chunk of my day working on the bondo and detailing. I am a bit of a perfectionist, so this is taking forever. I spent two hours yesterday staring at screenshots trying to pick out all the details that needed adding. I used a whole roll of double sided tape to foamie in the details. I have the bondo mostly done, I just have to finish up the chin area and around the neck opening. I took a couple pics, but will save that until tomorrow is done. I should have the bondo portion all done tomorrow, and will hopefully be able to finish all the cutlines as well. I will be reinforcing the neck opening first thing now that I have more resin and some masking tape. Once again I was reminded how awesome this professional grade bondo is. It is soooo much easier to work with. It goes on smoother and thinner, is easier to shape, is more consistant etc. Seriously, don't use anything else!

Brandon McClain · Dec 26, 2009

Alright, so I know its a double post, but I have an update. I spent a ton of time on Bondo and sanding over the last two days. I think I have put 30 to 35 hours in just on bondo and sanding this week. I added in all the foamies, reinforced the neck opening, and covered all the surfaces. I have it sanded mostly smooth, and covered it with sandable primer to check for low spots, divots and etc to see just how much I have left. My best guess is that I have about 10 hours left in detailing till it is ready to knock out the visor and paint. My goal is to have it all done before the new year. So I am hoping to have all the bondo and sanding, as well as the cutlines done Monday and get the visor cut out so I can detail it and get it ready for vac forming Tuesday. I am taking tomorrow off as a break. So here are some pics. I don't think they do it justice. I havent pulled the stickies off yet, I won't do that till it is ready for its final primer, so I can make sure they stay sharp.

Added stickies on top. I also put a bunch on the side and back to sharpen lines and add details not in the pep.

The sides is where I added most of the new details. On the swoop on the low cheek, I had to build it up to blend the added detail. The portions at the base of the visor, above and behind of the cheek detail etc. I still have an add on to do just in front of the cheek detail, but still have to figure out how to do it.