Resin Substitute

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smiggy3000 said:
Anything I can use other than resin?
i dont really know, but you could use moulding putty if ur skilled enough to sculpt it =D
 
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There's been quite a few different products that folks around this forum have tried with varying degrees of success...

Note that I do not use the phrase "success and/or failure"- even "failures" in the spirit of this forum are in-themselves limited successes as we'll at least know what NOT to use, right?

In the spirit of the forum as well- the types of questions such as this are supported HEAVILY within the forum- the old adage "The Search Function Is Your Friend" would still apply outside of this Noob area- so the products I bring up, make sure to follow up with a forum search- you're going to be amazed what's in here!

Products I've seen include Aqua Resin- which is a resin but it doesn't have the same potential chemical and fume problems as polyester/fiberglass resins [you'd still need at least a Level 2 dust mask as the powdered resin can become airborne incredibly easy!]

Hot glue- as already mentioned- though it has an odd effect here in Florida where I'm from- if set in the sun it can get tacky after a while!

Some have mentioned Paper Mache- which, if you add white glue to your mix may be helpful [again- check the Search function on this one- there's debate as to "Halloween Grade" versus a form of "Screen Original" grade]

There's an "old school" product out there that I've not seen mentioned called Cabosil- which is a cross between Paper Mache and Fiberglass- the problem is you'll need to know how to use BUCKETS of ACETONE to heat the stuff up and you'd have to do it outdoors ALSO wearing a gas-mask as this stuff is incredibly dangerous fume-wise... I only mention it because I used to work with it back in the 1980s and even then it wasn't terribly popular other than it was a fast-working product.

One that I myself am highly interested in is a spray-on truck bed liner that's sold in auto departments of Walmart and places like Auto Zone... Word has it that it hardens like a hard plastic helmet ought to! If indeed that's the case and it'll hold Bondo well, I may go that route just for expediency!

I know there's probably more that I'm missing, but perhaps that'll be enough to get your own creative juices flowing and you'll be able to come up with some of your own ideas!

Just don't forget to share- right? ;)

RusSEAL Out.
 
i think truck liner might not work. if you spray the outside with that stuff its seems to make it a more of a work then anything (trying to smooth it out)
isnt that stuff like a rubber of some kind?
 
link4044 said:
i think truck liner might not work. if you spray the outside with that stuff its seems to make it a more of a work then anything (trying to smooth it out)
isnt that stuff like a rubber of some kind?
That seems to be the debate...

There are two types out there- one that has a more "action traction" rubber-like texture & consistency- and there's another [I think it's called Duo-Cote brand] that hardens into a hard-shell plastic/resin type finish.

If, indeed the Duo-Cote is as described, then I'd say we've got a winner- but yes, the roll-on rubbery types are just not going to work.
 
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The store bought truck bed liners are no good for hardening paper in my experience. They're not even good truck bed liners and peel and scratch very easy. The only bed liner that hardens like plastic is industrial strength stuff.

Another alternative to resin (because you can't fiberglass if the temp is below 70 degrees fahrenheit) is smooth-cast 300.
 
Multiple coats of Mod Podge will work but resin over the top of this makes it work out better. I've also seen people use plaster gauze rolls (the type that they use on broken bones) to wrap pep parts with.

You will however want to use at least Bondo over the top of it an any rate to get a perfectly smooth part. Dynalite works even better but it's more expensive.

If you really want to invest use carbon fiber weave or Kevlar fabric in tandem with heat cured epoxy.
 
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