Props Spartan Laser Metal & Fiberglass Airsoft Prop (Fully Functioning Electronic Replica)
- Thread starter Redshirt
- Start date
- Status
- Member DIN
- S980
NO crickets! I've been watching this secretlyI really wanna see what this'll end up like! this deserves an elite! Keep going, I await more updates, yes...
No critckets here either, i have been in the mountains for the past week on vacation
This looks amazing man!
Your work is impressive as always. Keep doing what you're doing and we'll be here to watch and cheer you on!
Thanks for the loyalty guys. A build like this gets tiring after a fashion. The imagineering for embedding the switches into the mechanics (trigger, fore grip, etc) and then welding and grinding them into reality just moves sooo slow lately. Eventually, I'll run out of subassemblies to build, but it's dragging now. I'm glad to see you guys followed after the thread moved.
Redshirt
- Member DIN
- S980
Now that the main part of the trigger group has wrapped up, I've turned my attention to the folding fore grip. The construction of this piece is complicated by two things: I need it to operate two switches in succession, and the grip cannot be made to rotate into it's depicted storage position using the pivot point shown in the game render.
Here's the cut blank laying in it's retracted position. You can see how it squares up against the front of the trigger group.
Same deal, now right side up. It is supposed to rotate at the center of the notched out well on the left, but if it did that, it could never lie flat against the bottom of the receiver. My solution will be to retain the external look of the original pivot point, but hide the actual axle inside the receiver.
Bigger view of all the front pieces in position (temporarily).
Final beauty shot of the trigger group and the retracted fore grip. The next update will show where the actual point of rotation is hidden as well as the installation of the switches.
Redshirt
Here's the cut blank laying in it's retracted position. You can see how it squares up against the front of the trigger group.
Same deal, now right side up. It is supposed to rotate at the center of the notched out well on the left, but if it did that, it could never lie flat against the bottom of the receiver. My solution will be to retain the external look of the original pivot point, but hide the actual axle inside the receiver.
Bigger view of all the front pieces in position (temporarily).
Final beauty shot of the trigger group and the retracted fore grip. The next update will show where the actual point of rotation is hidden as well as the installation of the switches.
Redshirt
- Member DIN
- S980
Fore Grip Part Deux
The fore grip ended up being the first metal piece to get it's outer details grafted on with JB Weld. This is the pan for all the lower receiver parts--all the structural joints are welded and the outer details get bonded with JB Weld. Later, the whole thing will get blasted and Cera-Koted.
Here's the grip with the sides bonded on. I need to positively locate the grip at both ends of it's travel, so I chose to use rare-earth magnets to allow the grip to click into place at both end of its travel. I will later add springs to ensure the grip can't float in a neutral position without snapping closed (weapon safe).
More of the same. The rounded piece on top to the right will be the actual point of rotation.
Marking the position of the details about to be cut in. The detail will cut through the detail piece and into the billet core. That's why I bonded on the detail pieces early.
Cutting in the details with a step bit. The great thing about the step bit is that it chamfers (rounds off) the top of the hole for a clean, machi8ned look, rather than just a sharp-edged drilled hole.
Next up, building the carrier for the fore grip.
Redshirt
The fore grip ended up being the first metal piece to get it's outer details grafted on with JB Weld. This is the pan for all the lower receiver parts--all the structural joints are welded and the outer details get bonded with JB Weld. Later, the whole thing will get blasted and Cera-Koted.
Here's the grip with the sides bonded on. I need to positively locate the grip at both ends of it's travel, so I chose to use rare-earth magnets to allow the grip to click into place at both end of its travel. I will later add springs to ensure the grip can't float in a neutral position without snapping closed (weapon safe).
More of the same. The rounded piece on top to the right will be the actual point of rotation.
Marking the position of the details about to be cut in. The detail will cut through the detail piece and into the billet core. That's why I bonded on the detail pieces early.
Cutting in the details with a step bit. The great thing about the step bit is that it chamfers (rounds off) the top of the hole for a clean, machi8ned look, rather than just a sharp-edged drilled hole.
Next up, building the carrier for the fore grip.
Redshirt
- Member DIN
- S980
Articulating the Fore Grip
The progress has slowed somewhat over the last couple of weeks as competing must-do projects (engine rebuild, building a bar for my office) are taking my build time. Anyway, some good progress here on figuring out the pivot mechanism, magnet locations, and framework to make the front grip removable (and serviceable) as well as getting it as robust as the rest of the lower receiver assembly.
So here's the pivot, two of the locating holes and the steel rod for one magnet to latch the grip in the closed position. I used a steel pin for the pivot axle. You can see there is plenty of extra space between the fore grip and the frame cage. Still quite a bit of clean up to do on this. Later, once the ceramic finish is on, I'll line the contact surfaces in the cage with fiber gasket material to take up the slack and keep the parts from rubbing.
Here's the assembly in the open position. I will weld a crossmember over this magnet and embed a bolt to engage the grip in the open position. I will also add some type of over center springing mechanism to help the grip pop full open or full closed so it can't get stuck in between. I won't be able to do that until all of the electronic switches and components are in place and I see what space I have to work with.
Here's the whole assembly in the closed position. The marker line indicates what is exposed in the open position. Everything from the pivot pin on up secures inside the lower receiver. There is a faint tracing left of the pin. This area will be exposed outside the receiver. I will detail it later with a fake pivot point as shown in the game render.
Next I'll mount it up to the receiver and start working in the switches.
Redshirt
The progress has slowed somewhat over the last couple of weeks as competing must-do projects (engine rebuild, building a bar for my office) are taking my build time. Anyway, some good progress here on figuring out the pivot mechanism, magnet locations, and framework to make the front grip removable (and serviceable) as well as getting it as robust as the rest of the lower receiver assembly.
So here's the pivot, two of the locating holes and the steel rod for one magnet to latch the grip in the closed position. I used a steel pin for the pivot axle. You can see there is plenty of extra space between the fore grip and the frame cage. Still quite a bit of clean up to do on this. Later, once the ceramic finish is on, I'll line the contact surfaces in the cage with fiber gasket material to take up the slack and keep the parts from rubbing.
Here's the assembly in the open position. I will weld a crossmember over this magnet and embed a bolt to engage the grip in the open position. I will also add some type of over center springing mechanism to help the grip pop full open or full closed so it can't get stuck in between. I won't be able to do that until all of the electronic switches and components are in place and I see what space I have to work with.
Here's the whole assembly in the closed position. The marker line indicates what is exposed in the open position. Everything from the pivot pin on up secures inside the lower receiver. There is a faint tracing left of the pin. This area will be exposed outside the receiver. I will detail it later with a fake pivot point as shown in the game render.
Next I'll mount it up to the receiver and start working in the switches.
Redshirt
- Member DIN
- S980
Get A Grip
Thanks Mstrugmgc (What the hell is your name story anyhow?)!
Sorry this update doesn't have the switches yet, but I do have everything mechanical mounted up and working.
Here's the grip setup attached to the lower receiver. I stuck the mechboxs and frame into there as well to get a feeling for the balance. Seems a bit top heavy. Who could have guessed?
Top view of the assembly. Two noteworthy things here: I welded in the bridge across the top with the steel bolt integrated to latch the grip magnetically in the open position. The other detail is the unfilled hole in the top of the trigger group. A section of 'C' channel will attach there and carry forward. The 'C' channel will also screw to each side of the receiver as well as ultimately carry the two grip switches.
Everything buttoned up with the upper receiver set on with the front shroud in the closed position. This will be the overall look when the weapon is safed. Opening the grip with activate the master switch as well as initiate the shroud lifting. Notice the upper receiver lines are not perfectly parallel with the lower receiver. That, friends, is big trouble ahead.
Not much to say here. Seeing it all pieced together is highly motivational. It really shoulders nice! Looking down the side looks just like the game.
Till next time.
Redshirt
Thanks Mstrugmgc (What the hell is your name story anyhow?)!
Sorry this update doesn't have the switches yet, but I do have everything mechanical mounted up and working.
Here's the grip setup attached to the lower receiver. I stuck the mechboxs and frame into there as well to get a feeling for the balance. Seems a bit top heavy. Who could have guessed?
Top view of the assembly. Two noteworthy things here: I welded in the bridge across the top with the steel bolt integrated to latch the grip magnetically in the open position. The other detail is the unfilled hole in the top of the trigger group. A section of 'C' channel will attach there and carry forward. The 'C' channel will also screw to each side of the receiver as well as ultimately carry the two grip switches.
Everything buttoned up with the upper receiver set on with the front shroud in the closed position. This will be the overall look when the weapon is safed. Opening the grip with activate the master switch as well as initiate the shroud lifting. Notice the upper receiver lines are not perfectly parallel with the lower receiver. That, friends, is big trouble ahead.
Not much to say here. Seeing it all pieced together is highly motivational. It really shoulders nice! Looking down the side looks just like the game.
Till next time.
Redshirt
Mstruvmgc
Sr Member
Dude!! That's sexy as hell lol.
And my name means master of magic. My mom helper me pick it out for my aol screen name back when I was like 12 or something like that. We picked it because I like magical stuff like dragons and other fantasy type things. Also I play a card game called magic the gathering. I have used the name ever since. Lol
And my name means master of magic. My mom helper me pick it out for my aol screen name back when I was like 12 or something like that. We picked it because I like magical stuff like dragons and other fantasy type things. Also I play a card game called magic the gathering. I have used the name ever since. Lol
- Member DIN
- S980
Elitesweets
New Member
Very, very pretty!
- Member DIN
- S980
Switches
Thank you very much.
OK, here are the switches and the latched open bridge installed. Lots of guestimates into what configuration would work. I finally settled on a plunger operation for the master switch and a roller operation for the shroud switch.
The master switch is the small switch on the right side of the picture and the larger switch on the right is for the shroud. Switches on the left are the previously-covered trigger switches. The roller switch for the shroud operation is a dual-pole,dual-throw (DPDT) configuration. It's a tricky operation where the current is reversed when the switch is thrown. I need this function to raise and lower the shroud. When the fore grip is extended, the master switch is closed and the DPDT tripped to power the shroud servo to open until the shroud hits a limit switch (not shown or figured out for that matter), opening the circuit. When the fore grip starts to close, the DPDT reverses, driving the shroud closed until the master switch removes power from the shroud circuit, along with everything else.
A look along the inside top of the fore grip shows the placement of the roller. The master switch's actuating rod is on the right and hard to see.
Here's the underside of the fore grip. The plunger for the master switch is barely visible. It is wired normally closed. Only when the fore grip is fully stowed is the system de-powered (open circuit).
A profile view showing how far everything sticks up. Remember, this has to sit low because the outer barrel sits directly on top of this. Sharpie line indicates material to still be ground away to save space and make things tidy.
Redshirt
Thank you very much.
OK, here are the switches and the latched open bridge installed. Lots of guestimates into what configuration would work. I finally settled on a plunger operation for the master switch and a roller operation for the shroud switch.
The master switch is the small switch on the right side of the picture and the larger switch on the right is for the shroud. Switches on the left are the previously-covered trigger switches. The roller switch for the shroud operation is a dual-pole,dual-throw (DPDT) configuration. It's a tricky operation where the current is reversed when the switch is thrown. I need this function to raise and lower the shroud. When the fore grip is extended, the master switch is closed and the DPDT tripped to power the shroud servo to open until the shroud hits a limit switch (not shown or figured out for that matter), opening the circuit. When the fore grip starts to close, the DPDT reverses, driving the shroud closed until the master switch removes power from the shroud circuit, along with everything else.
A look along the inside top of the fore grip shows the placement of the roller. The master switch's actuating rod is on the right and hard to see.
Here's the underside of the fore grip. The plunger for the master switch is barely visible. It is wired normally closed. Only when the fore grip is fully stowed is the system de-powered (open circuit).
A profile view showing how far everything sticks up. Remember, this has to sit low because the outer barrel sits directly on top of this. Sharpie line indicates material to still be ground away to save space and make things tidy.
Redshirt
Mstruvmgc
Sr Member
LOL nah, as funny as that would be.
Holy cow man, this is coming along so nicely. You are the man for sure
Rysjin7717
New Member
Red, first off i'd like take thank ya for your service take protect our freedoms. 2nd I read about your MC build while deployed a great build brah. Ya seem take have done an insurmountable amount of work this is a BEAST!!!! Ya got some mad skillz th' fact is ya planned it out I tend take spend most of my time over @TheRPF stuff like this is what brings me back, I can't wait take see this finished brah keep up th' good work.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
- Member DIN
- S980
Thanks,
I need to go check out the Replica Prop Forums again. It's been a while.
Redshirt
- Status
