The Ultimate Pepakura FAQ
- Thread starter Sigma LS
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project phoenix
Member
thanks man this really helps!
Well just a few questions about reinforcement. How exactly would you reinforce a helmet made of 65lb cardstock. And is reinforcement nessacary if you resin in small amounts? And I looked at the Paper to Gsm conversion and it said 150-200gsm is good enough and my 65lb has a 176gsm so I'm confused now. Should I go by gsm or weight......
NobleEight
Jr Member
Good post and made it one of my favs, for when i start building thanks alot for the details!
CommissarHartman
New Member
This is likely here, though I can't seem to find it. I have Pepakura Viewer 3 and cannot find any utility for adjusting the scale of my files. Is that something that I would have to upgrade to the liscensed version of Pepakura for?
Nintendude
Well-Known Member
In order to scale you need to use the Pepakura Designer program, while it does cost $38 for a license you can still rescale a file and everything else just when you are done be ready to print do so because you can't save without a license.
CommissarHartman
New Member
Ah, that makes sense then. Thank you.
xBeaver Feaver
Jr Member
Excellent thread. Answered pretty much all of my questions. How am supposed to up my thread count when all of my questions are already answered? 
Epiphany
Like my header there says - I haz it. Just now.
The cheek details on Sharkhead & Dubean's awesome HD Iron Man helmet were driving me absolutely INSANE. And then, after letting it sit for well over a month and coming back to take another stab at those pieces with reprinted pages, it was like a lightning bolt - TRUST THAT THE FOLD LINES ARE PRINTED CORRECTLY. Yeah, it sounds stupid - hell, it *IS* stupid. At least, it's stupid to think that there's no way the folds can work out properly the way they're printed, because dozens of people have already built the thing, and I haven't seen ANYONE saying, "Well, you need to reverse the folds on these parts for it to come out right." - just trust that the lines are right, and make your cuts and folds PRECISELY. For the cheek details, it actually doesn't hurt to trim the flaps down from the size that they're printed, but make sure that you're trimming the flaps, and not the part. A few hours of off-and-on work on the reprinted pages, and I'm nearly through with one of two beautiful cheek detail parts needed to allow me to start actual assembly of the helmet from the pile of subassemblies I currently have.
Learn from my fail.
Like my header there says - I haz it. Just now.
The cheek details on Sharkhead & Dubean's awesome HD Iron Man helmet were driving me absolutely INSANE. And then, after letting it sit for well over a month and coming back to take another stab at those pieces with reprinted pages, it was like a lightning bolt - TRUST THAT THE FOLD LINES ARE PRINTED CORRECTLY. Yeah, it sounds stupid - hell, it *IS* stupid. At least, it's stupid to think that there's no way the folds can work out properly the way they're printed, because dozens of people have already built the thing, and I haven't seen ANYONE saying, "Well, you need to reverse the folds on these parts for it to come out right." - just trust that the lines are right, and make your cuts and folds PRECISELY. For the cheek details, it actually doesn't hurt to trim the flaps down from the size that they're printed, but make sure that you're trimming the flaps, and not the part. A few hours of off-and-on work on the reprinted pages, and I'm nearly through with one of two beautiful cheek detail parts needed to allow me to start actual assembly of the helmet from the pile of subassemblies I currently have.
Learn from my fail.
Nintendude
Well-Known Member
The Noble 6 Helmet from Halo Reach.
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