Hey brand new

I have no clue how to make any type of helmet, I'd prefer to start off with a ODST helmet. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated:)
A good starting point would be what kind of material do you want to make your helmet out of. The three main methods would be pepakura, foam, and 3d print.

If you aren't really sure how you want to make it, I'd recommend looking at our Tutorial Index to get a general idea of how each method works and the processes for each.


As for what I would recommend, I always recommend to anyone just starting to learn how to do foamsmithing. It has the lowest cost to start in the ways of material, difficulty and tools need for construction. I as well as many other members here started by working on an AndrewDFT ODST. It's nice because you get to follow a step by step video tutorial as well. They may not be the prettiest suits in the world, but you'll learn all the basics that will help you later on if your decide to keep working with foam.


If you really want to eat the cost of starting with 3D prints I made a video tutorial a little while back on finishing a 3D printed ODST helmet as well.



If you have any other questions let us know and we will be happy to help you in anyway that we can!

No matter what method you choose I hope you keep at it and finish a great ODST helmet!
 
My regular 'new armorer' post:

If you didn't know - the 405th Reddit and Facebook and Discord server/pages are just a social media front end to the much large 405th organization. Tip of the iceberg. Head over to the proper 405th website for a vast amount of material, help, articles, resources and what will probably help you the most: Other people's build threads.

The welcome book lays out what you need to know.
https://www.405th.com/.../405th-welcome-booklet.52168/

The actual 405th website has a vast armory of files.
The Armory
And 3d model index

Free 3D Model Index

A curated list of tutorials:
Tutorial Index


One of many, many, many build threads.
MK-VI gen3, as Silver timeline (TV series)
https://www.405th.com/.../build-2-mk-vi-gen-3-with-some.../


Not saying: Don't ask
Am saying: There are so many experienced armorers that have poured collective man-years into really good build threads, articles and tutorials filled with do's and don'ts and wish-I-had-knowns that you're doing yourself a disservice by not reading them. A casual afternoon of reading the tales of those that came before you would put you MONTHS further ahead, save you time, money, effort, wastage and exasperation. Not to mention after all those people's hard work making the articles it would be a shame for them to not get read.


Helmet probably should be last, not first. Yeah yeah, everyone wants a helmet to drool over. But it's the thing everyone stares at so you want to do it AFTER you've developed a process, techniques and skills.
Personally I always recommend starting at the feet & hands then working up & in to the body.
• You're going to weather and distress the boots more than anything else... and they get looked at with the least critical eye.
• Then shins which have to ride on the boots.
• Then thighs since you have to avoid joint conflict so you can sit etc.
• See how this goes? Up from the boots, and inward from the hands to forearms to biceps to shoulders.
• By the time you get to the chest and helmet; the parts at eye level that everyone stares at, looks at first, is right there in your face in every photo - you can make them look stellar.
And if you start at the boots you're looking at parts that are only a day or two per part not 6 days per part. So you can hone your scaling skills.


If you've never done an armor build before you might want your first armor to be one without the really tight tolerances of a Spartan or Ironman. I confess I made about 3 Spartan armors to get my first one right. It was very Goldilocks of "This is too big, this is too small, this is just right" with every part. If I had known then what I learned through the process I would have made a Mandalorian (least actual armor) then an ODST then Spartan and actually gotten 2-3 good wearable costumes instead of a lot of waste. I mean, you're going to go through all that time and material one way or the other so you might as well have something to show for it.

If you are new to 3d printing or considering buying your first 3d printer just so you can make an armor:
3d printer have come a long way since I started with them in 2009. But they still aren't fully plug-n-play like a department store inkjet: But some of the newest & smallest ones are getting there. There's a lot more to 3d printing than just hitting print: Like knowing your different materials and when to use them. Or knowing when more walls and less infil, or more infil and less walls is the right choice. You should expect there to be a learning curve and at $20/spool that curve comes with a cost. I'm just saying walk into 3d printing with your eyes open.
"What's your printer?" thread on the 405th forum:
What's Your Printer?


Jumping right to armor is really not the best way to go when beginning 3d printing. You really want to work up to something this big and specialized. Work up to things so big that a 3% goof can mean added costs, joints that lock up and you can't bend your elbow etc. Little easy things first… Things with no supports to start. Move up to props like pistols. And keep moving upward over time.
• A few settings differences can be the difference between a part too weak to be used and printing your armor so heavy it's exhausting to wear. The difference between a $10 part and a $40 part adds up to a significant difference over an entire armor.


If it's your first printer taking a hybrid approach can actually save money. Get the small bed printer for home use and see if you even like doing this. Large 500mm machines aren't cheap and take up space and fails are proportionately expensive. If you love doing it and can justify the big printer as your second or third machine, go for it. But if you want to make the smaller things at home and outsource the big stuff to a print farm like www.starbase3d.com (mine for transparency) the extra-large printers mean being able to have big armor pieces like legs/chest/back done in single-prints instead of several seams to be glued and blended into invisibility.
 
My regular 'new armorer' post:

If you didn't know - the 405th Reddit and Facebook and Discord server/pages are just a social media front end to the much large 405th organization. Tip of the iceberg. Head over to the proper 405th website for a vast amount of material, help, articles, resources and what will probably help you the most: Other people's build threads.

The welcome book lays out what you need to know.
https://www.405th.com/.../405th-welcome-booklet.52168/

The actual 405th website has a vast armory of files.
The Armory
And 3d model index

Free 3D Model Index

A curated list of tutorials:
Tutorial Index


One of many, many, many build threads.
MK-VI gen3, as Silver timeline (TV series)
https://www.405th.com/.../build-2-mk-vi-gen-3-with-some.../


Not saying: Don't ask
Am saying: There are so many experienced armorers that have poured collective man-years into really good build threads, articles and tutorials filled with do's and don'ts and wish-I-had-knowns that you're doing yourself a disservice by not reading them. A casual afternoon of reading the tales of those that came before you would put you MONTHS further ahead, save you time, money, effort, wastage and exasperation. Not to mention after all those people's hard work making the articles it would be a shame for them to not get read.


Helmet probably should be last, not first. Yeah yeah, everyone wants a helmet to drool over. But it's the thing everyone stares at so you want to do it AFTER you've developed a process, techniques and skills.
Personally I always recommend starting at the feet & hands then working up & in to the body.
• You're going to weather and distress the boots more than anything else... and they get looked at with the least critical eye.
• Then shins which have to ride on the boots.
• Then thighs since you have to avoid joint conflict so you can sit etc.
• See how this goes? Up from the boots, and inward from the hands to forearms to biceps to shoulders.
• By the time you get to the chest and helmet; the parts at eye level that everyone stares at, looks at first, is right there in your face in every photo - you can make them look stellar.
And if you start at the boots you're looking at parts that are only a day or two per part not 6 days per part. So you can hone your scaling skills.


If you've never done an armor build before you might want your first armor to be one without the really tight tolerances of a Spartan or Ironman. I confess I made about 3 Spartan armors to get my first one right. It was very Goldilocks of "This is too big, this is too small, this is just right" with every part. If I had known then what I learned through the process I would have made a Mandalorian (least actual armor) then an ODST then Spartan and actually gotten 2-3 good wearable costumes instead of a lot of waste. I mean, you're going to go through all that time and material one way or the other so you might as well have something to show for it.

If you are new to 3d printing or considering buying your first 3d printer just so you can make an armor:
3d printer have come a long way since I started with them in 2009. But they still aren't fully plug-n-play like a department store inkjet: But some of the newest & smallest ones are getting there. There's a lot more to 3d printing than just hitting print: Like knowing your different materials and when to use them. Or knowing when more walls and less infil, or more infil and less walls is the right choice. You should expect there to be a learning curve and at $20/spool that curve comes with a cost. I'm just saying walk into 3d printing with your eyes open.
"What's your printer?" thread on the 405th forum:
What's Your Printer?


Jumping right to armor is really not the best way to go when beginning 3d printing. You really want to work up to something this big and specialized. Work up to things so big that a 3% goof can mean added costs, joints that lock up and you can't bend your elbow etc. Little easy things first… Things with no supports to start. Move up to props like pistols. And keep moving upward over time.
• A few settings differences can be the difference between a part too weak to be used and printing your armor so heavy it's exhausting to wear. The difference between a $10 part and a $40 part adds up to a significant difference over an entire armor.


If it's your first printer taking a hybrid approach can actually save money. Get the small bed printer for home use and see if you even like doing this. Large 500mm machines aren't cheap and take up space and fails are proportionately expensive. If you love doing it and can justify the big printer as your second or third machine, go for it. But if you want to make the smaller things at home and outsource the big stuff to a print farm like www.starbase3d.com (mine for transparency) the extra-large printers mean being able to have big armor pieces like legs/chest/back done in single-prints instead of several seams to be glued and blended into invisibility.
Hey thanks for the advice! When I finally get the chance to start makin it I'll definitely be using some (most likely all lolll) of that :)
 

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