Mark Vi Hd Build Help!

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Tandhem

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So ive begun pepping, and ive done a liiiiitle pepakura before but starting with the HD hand armor was brutal.. i've also begun putting together the right bicept but super glue is awful. hopefully i can pick up some good old elmers tomorrow, and more hot glue sticks (for filling the hand plate). My biggest threat is just not following through. Every time i see a great looking pepped suit it is a huge incentive but that only lasts so long. i think once i get a few pieces done i won't want to quit. Funding will also eventually become a problem :) if anyone has any ips please let me know. pics of completed pieces will be up soon!



Scaling: I used that mathematical equation to get my scaling right and my number was like 72 but that turned out still humongous, then i did the division and 25.7758 was tiiiiiny! so i put the hand plate at 48 which is perfect but idk what to do with the rest of the suit and why my numbers dont match up. anyone???
 
Just eyeball it with a ruler, but don't forget to leave some space for padding. Try hot glue for your glueing. I found superglue to be absolutely IMPOSSIBLE haha
 
Finished first HD hand plate and it was such a bitch that im just going to cast it and make a few after i resin and bondo it.





Also!!!- I found that super glue works exactly like resin. works best for tiny areas you want hardened or spot repair on full resined pieces!
 
Tandhem said:
Finished first HD hand plate and it was such a bitch that im just going to cast it and make a few after i resin and bondo it.





Also!!!- I found that super glue works exactly like resin. works best for tiny areas you want hardened or spot repair on full resined pieces!



Be careful with super glue. It can be very brittle especially at stressful seams. I've not done pepakura before (yet) but I have done some paper modeling and despite the brittle aspect of it, I preffered to use super glue. I bet resin and bondo will take care of any brittle superglue joints, but while building before resoning, be careful.
 
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idk how you prefer it. cardstock/superglue/cardstock does not work short of 10 minutes in a vice grip. horrible medium. Elmers is a glorious friend.
 
I have some tips on pepping armor.



I use Super glue and Hot glue.



The brand I use is Krazy Glue. Look for the one that is GEL formual and does not bond to skin. I found it in walmart in the ARTS and Crafts Section.
 
So i just pepped the smooth HD helmet by DF4L. it is beautiful and a perfect fit. i hope you like :)Resin soon for the helm, first hand piece, and the nearly finished right HD shoulder piece

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So for the Glue, i don`t know if u can get in ur country try to get UHU simply the best glue for paper, and for the scaling mc hammer says it all.

good luck for the rest of ur Armor!!





Psy
 
i pepped the helmet. used 6 tbsp of resin and about 6 drops of hardener. didnt use nearly all of the resin and now (4-5 hours later) it is still sticky.....what to do????
 
that happend to my sholder piece but i put it in a worm spot in my garage and left it over night and it got hard so try that but if that dosent work i dont know
 
ok i have done a my fair share of pain stacking pepakura but seriously the result is always worth it

the way i build is with super glue i can get it in an australian hardware store (because clearly im australian) for $2 for 7 tubes yes $2 "incredible" and i think it's the best way to go because it literally fuses the carstock together, "remember super glue has about a 3 seconds drying stage so hold it on for about 7 seconds" but make sure your "constantly moving your fingers to prevent from fusing the yourself to the work " (hilarious but frustrating)



As for funds i highly suggest if you have an income " job " put some money away each week and let it build up like an interest account and leave it there until the amount you take out is replacible



As for sizing my pieces personaly " i don't trust the scale" so when i use pepakura designer 3 i only use the mm (millimeters) in height then take the width and depth and do an eye measurement to be more precise and so it has worked out every time for me except the shins cause well there weird but yeh it works really well





OH AND ALSO when you sayed "i pepped the helmet. used 6 tbsp of resin and about 6 drops of hardener. didnt use nearly all of the resin and now (4-5 hours later) it is still sticky.....what to do????" and this " Also!!!- I found that super glue works exactly like resin. works best for tiny areas you want hardened or spot repair on full resined pieces!"



1). for the resining i dont think you mixed it corectly because obviously if it's still "tacky" then you didnt apply enough catalyst



2) also for the super glue exactly like resing? , it has similar effects but when you apply resin it most likely will put tacky patches all over your work i have had that done to my hand plate and so i left if for a few weeks then it dryed up so if you want to dry it immediatly try baby powder or salt "something to soak moisture"





hope this helps if you need more advice shoot me a pm
 
For a perfect batch of resin that will harden in about 10 mins after mixed this is what I do. Note that this is for the Bondo brand resin so other brands might be a bit different. Just read the directions on it and you should be fine.



1. Have your piece, mixing container, stir stick, brushes, and everything else you need close by ready to go before you start.

2. Measure out 1 oz. resin and pour into what you are going to be mixing it in.

3. Measure out 12 drops of hardener.

4. Add your hardener then stir really good making sure it is mixed well. About 1 min is usually enough.



A good rule of thumb is for every ounce of resin use 12 drops of the liquid hardener. So 2 ounces would be 24 drops ECT. Work with small batches. I only mix an ounce at a time so I cut down on waste. Temperature will change the hardening time too so keep that in mind. The cooler the temp the longer you will have to work with it.



With those same proportions I can mix and work with it out in the sun on a 92-degree day for about 9-10 mins before it starts to gel. Once it starts to gel up or you notice little lumps of resin on your piece don't attempt to keep applying it as it will cause you a lot of sanding and you wont get even coverage.



You can get little plastic medicine cups like you get with some cough syrup from your local pharmacist and those work awesome for measuring. They will usually give them to you for free if you ask them for a couple.



Hope this helps with resin a little bit as it can be a pain if you have never worked with it before and don't really know what to expect.
 
Tandhem said:
howmany plastic cups is an ounce?



The cups have the measurements right there on the side. It wont look like much but trust me its plenty when just brushing it on the outside.

Here is a picture so you get a better idea of what im talking about. One of those cups is an ounce.

Calibrated-Plastic-Medicine-Cup-1oz-176356-PRODUCT-MEDIUM_IMAGE.jpg
 
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