3D printer HELP thread

HATE Recon

Member
That hot end on a cr-10, I have gone through 3 of in the last 3 months. One lasted 2 years the next one 2 months. I have noticed that if I have my print bed to close the pla will push out the top end of the nozzle if its loose. I will say that I will probably get an other one as there is a new version of it.
I had an issue with the teflon tube melting in my CR-10, but I upgraded it using a microswiss fullmetal hotend, which at first I was having issues with due to a faulty cooling fan, but since I upgraded the fan with a $20 PC case fan, I have had beautiful prints from that printer. I also upgraded the teflon tube on my other printer, and I haven't had any issues yet.
 

Lieutenant Jaku

Well-Known Member
HATE Recon how would you fix this
KIMG1663.JPG 1533056839858-958376662.jpg
I know it has to do w/ extrusion but I dont know what to do to solve it. I was thinking of doing a cold pull on it but id rather avoid it
 

arma358

PR Officer
Division Staff
You just use the @ symbol to tag, like Twitter, HATE Recon . Also, looks like some pretty severe underextrusion, Lieutenant Jaku .

Few things could cause that. Semi-clogged nozzle, low filament feed rate (skipping/grinding extruder stepper) would be the two things I'd look at immediately.
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
yeah I know that arma358 but what do i do to figure out which it is and how to fix it from there
My best guess on troubleshooting would be snagging a replacement nozzle (a good thing to have on hand anyway) and tossing it in and see if your quality improves. If not, move further down the filament feed line.

Bad inner diameter PFTE tube? Check that your standard filament size passes through freely without snagging.
Bad feed rate? Do a test extrusion and set a length of filament to extrude and then compare what is actually extruded.
Bad filament? What's your storage solution like? There could be excess moisture building up and causing filament expansion. It could also be filament with poor diameter tolerances.
 

arma358

PR Officer
Division Staff
Well, the fixes for either aren't difficult. To fix the semi-clogged nozzle, I'd do a cold pull. As for the grinding/skipping extruder stepper, I'd give it a listen while you're running a part to see if it is indeed grinding or stepping. The most common reason it loses steps is because it's clogged anyhow, or the filament gear has ground into the filament itself. If that doesn't fix it, try increasing the feed rate.
 

HATE Recon

Member
Depends on the quality. My tube melted because I was printing petg (250°C) and it was a cheap nozzle. Got better tubing and haven't had an issue since.
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Depends on the quality. My tube melted because I was printing petg (250°C) and it was a cheap nozzle. Got better tubing and haven't had an issue since.
PFTE should be able to survive into the 300°C range before reaching it's transition temperature. You might need to double check your supplier is giving you what you paid for.
 

GMer56

Well-Known Member
HATE Recon how would you fix this
View attachment 261869 View attachment 261870
I know it has to do w/ extrusion but I dont know what to do to solve it. I was thinking of doing a cold pull on it but id rather avoid it
I had the same thing happen with my davinci jr. I dug up a tiny resistor and shoved a lead up the nozzle a few times and wiggled it around. Pretty much fixed the problem.

Not sure how your printer works, but the davinci jr has a few mm airgap in the extruder chassis between the bowden feed line and the heating element/nozzle (also a filament detection switch lives there, but its beside the point), so if your printer has a similar setup and is melting your tube across an air gap you might be pushing your luck with your temperature.
 

PugLife

New Member
To help the forum with the vast world of 3D printing I am staring this thread to have ANY ONE ask and get answers .
got a bad failed print of a prop Hopefully with the fine folks on here we can help each other out.
And also help the new folks not repeat the stuff that does not work. NO point in wasting time and plastic on things that don't work.
ill be editing this top part to have links to the Q's and failures and links to solutions .





Some helpful Software for the steps of printing:

http://www.123dapp.com/ A set of programs made by AutoDesk. These are the folks who make some of the best CAD programs in the world.
Most useful is " Design " . It's as basic as MS paint but more then enough to get you in to the world of Mech CAD.
It Runs on both windows and mac OS'es.

The 123D Apps are free for personal and edu use! Commercial use is 10USD a month.

http://www.meshmixer.com/ Also from AutoDesk Meshmixer lets you scale ,Dice and work with STL's and OBJ's,
With MM you can fit props to your print bed and find flaws. Remove and add polys, And use it as a means to add some shaders to visualize your project.
Runs on both windows and mac OS'es.


blender.org - Home of the Blender project - Free and Open 3D Creation Software Blender is VERY powerful. While not really a true Mech CAD program,
It's vast tool array for working with pre made assets makes it a great tool to use for the Mesh to Solid conversion that is the cornerstone of 3D printing .
Blender also does a very good job with poly Up conversion to take a raw asset and let you make then worth printing.
It runs on *Nix Windows and mac OS'es.
There are 3Dprinting plug-ins for Blender but I've yet to use them.

Additive Manufacturing and Design Software | Netfabb | Autodesk Netfabb is the industry standard for repair of soon to be printed models.
Got a hole in a print Netfabb Will fix that!
Here is the version you will wanna download .
https://www.netfabb.com/blog/netfabb-basic-now-just-netfabb
Sadly its Windows only ... I hope with the massive budget that AutoDesk has that they will port it over soon, In the last few years AutoDesk has become mac friendly.

While I own W7 for CAD and games . Most macs are more then able to handle the hardware load and with makers on many kinds of OSes Its smart to reach all of them.


Here is a Netfabb Alternitive that reemaj3D has found
3D printing Repair tool
Ive not yet tried it but its Web based and that means any Desktop OS can use it ,
( likely android and Chome OS too! )





Buying 3D Printed parts from others:


PerniciousDuke Has done a VERY good write-up on what to look for when buying 3D printed parts or full props.

Duke's 3D print Halo Props (What to expect from 3D)

Buying a pritner : its gonna be updated to be MUCH bigger soon
but here is a Great list from Trends | 3D Hubs




View attachment 25770

Also here are the trends to what is hot and not .


View attachment 25771


To be blunt :
Here is a shure fire list of a few machines Ive used that I Can vouch for

Under a grand and want a VERY good box to start on and have for a few years . Prusa I3 and its GOOD quality clones. $400-600
Prusa Steel Reviews & Ratings


Want to go big and blow 2200 USD? Then the Luzbot TAZ is the top of the class.
https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/lulzbot-taz-5


Want a box that is a good over all value and can be a armor work horse in the shop? The flashforge Dreamer and Creator Pro are great!
https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/flashforge-creator-pro
and
https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/flashforge-dreamer
The two have the same internal frame and same hot ends and same qualty
the dreamer has a onboard ARM proc ( like a rasperryPi) with WiFI and a touch screen that makes it in stand alone mode a snap to use with NO PC near by.
the creator uses more open software BUT is more complicated .

Ill add more Good machines as I get time. but My list reflects the industrys stats

Got one you use PM!! me and Il add it !



I have at my lab both a Flashforge Dreamer and

I have a Rostock MAX https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/rostock-max

https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/rostock-max

What to avoid at ALL costs... and I do mean costs...


The * currrent gen* makerbots are $2500 ish and cant do ABS... the I3 can and its WAY cheaper
https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/makerbot-replicator-5th-gen


The XYZ besides the $700 pro MUST use there DRM MicroChipped plastic . at 28 USD for 600 grams.
https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/da-vinci-1-0
* at $ 700 bucks you can get a I3 and buy tons of plastic ! *
Please read the reviws and how nasty they are.



99% of the consumer 3Dp world is not Ok with Chipped DRM consumables
What works for your inkjet is not OK in Our book for 3Dp.

Yea you gotta * pay up* to play but once you are in, the filiment world is yours !

The Avg market rate is around $25 bucks a KG for Mid and good grade plastic ( 19-35 is the range you can find from Plastic trash to over priced )




Now on to plastic and why a heated bed is a MUST.
http://www.protoparadigm.com/news-updates/the-difference-between-abs-and-pla-for-3d-printing/


More to come .
Thank you for this. This was exactly what I was looking for to help with that push I needed :)
 

TinyTim

New Member
I know I'm a little late to the party, but I'd recommend getting an all-metal upgrade for your printer, as there isn't any PTFE in them. Both of my go-to's developed a hole in the ptfe tubing after a little time (50+hrs) would constantly jam filament and make purging nigh impossible. I've got a WanHao (PowerSpec) I-3 and mini (cantilever style) and there are upgrades available for both for the cost of a spool of worth-your-time filament.
 

Excelsior935

New Member
I have recently purchased a 3D printer and want to print Halo 3 MKVI armor. What is the best type of filament to print armor with? I probably can’t print ABS the compatible Filament list says I can but the printer isn’t enclosed.
 
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