Discussion in 'Halo 3D Modeling' started by peterthethinker, Nov 8, 2016.
FYI Meshmixrer does VERY bad at mesh to solid .. Try blender .
Blerk,Parallels.Talking about a kludge solution. Shudder
I've got Bootcamp running on my Imac, I never have issues, and I did so exactly because in my professional life I've run into so many issues with Parallels it's not funny anymore. As the overpriced Frootloops company also hamper Bootcamp performance by locking out the use of Fusion drives on a Bootcamp, my Bootcamp runs from a Thunderbolt external SSD which "offically speaking" is not possible according to Apple, but it's pretty easy to do.
If push comes to shove, you can send the file that's bothering you to me. I'll see what I can do.
PS : Although I hold an ACSP and have 2 Apple machines myself, I actually prefer the Redmond OS any day in professional life, certainly in networking enviroments. But that's just my peronsal opinion and I've said it in the past : this Imac is my last Apple EVER.
But to everyone his own.
This thread should include filament selection - good brands, great brands, and brands to stay away from. The best printer on the planet probably isn't going to perform well at all when using the worst filament on the planet. Would be good to see filament supplier and material property ratings here.
Depends on what your printer "likes". I've bought expensive filament that was crap, and cheap ones that are great. Printers with teflon tubing (ie most cheap printers) are more sensitive, but my Replicator 2 would eat anything.
If you need any help feel free to message me here and I will be glad to help.
Thanks, but got a different printer and it's working just fine.
Sorry if this counts as necroposting, or if this thread isn't meant to be replied to. But I haven't found another appropriate place I could post this question. Do any of you have experience with the Monoprice Maker Select Plus? It's a Prusa i3 clone. I'm about to pull the trigger on one so I can start putting together a suit of Halo armor, but I wanted to get some feedback from some others here who have used it for large scale projects like a full suit of armor.
I have a monopMonomaker select 2 which is very similar just lacking a few features. I think it is a great printer as long as you didon screw up the z axis like me. I would talk to TurboCharizard as he actually uses his
Thanks, I'll do that! From what I understand it's not all that difficult to level the print bed and make sure the various axises are aligned - there's a tool that comes with it for leveling the Z axis on both of the lead screws.
Yeah I'm just not very good at it and don't have alot of time, I got it working but it was misaligned again.
If you're making armour Takanuva , the Prusa clones are good but I'd look for something with a larger print volume so that you are less constrained and have less splitting to do overall.
Take a look at the Tevo Tornado or Creality CR-10 for their larger size and low price point. I've been running my Tevo for about a month now and have been getting quality similar to my Wanhao but am printing larger pieces at a faster rate.
Thanks for that TurboCharizard! I checked out those two models you just named, as well as the Creality Ender 3. I compared all of their specs and prices, and I'm still really liking that Monoprice. The larger build volumes of the other printers are good, but except for that, that Monoprice fits in pretty well as far as heated bed and nozzle temperature capabilities go. And I can get it for $300 with free shipping and no sales tax, and have it shipped in 2 or 3 days. All things considered, I think that I'm going to go for the Monoprice. The build volume is still fairly large, even compared to what was common several years ago for the price. I can handle splitting and assembling parts.
Creality cr 10 is great 3d printer. I have 4 of them and only can complain about hot end . It is good to keep spare one (mk8 or mk10) and hot end nozzle . I printed few costumes using this printers and still using stock parts. In new version you do not have access to settings in control box soo need to change them in Simplify3d etc .
That hot end on a cr-10, I have gone through 3 of in the last 3 months. One lasted 2 years the next one 2 months. I have noticed that if I have my print bed to close the pla will push out the top end of the nozzle if its loose. I will say that I will probably get an other one as there is a new version of it.
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