3D printer HELP thread

Kusak3

Active Member
I have recently purchased a 3D printer and want to print Halo 3 MKVI armor. What is the best type of filament to print armor with? I probably can’t print ABS the compatible Filament list says I can but the printer isn’t enclosed.
your cheapest option is PLA. I would recommend PLA + or aka PLA Pro. It has a bit more heat handling ability. Leaving PLA prints in your car on a warm sunny day can be rather bad for there health. And just because your printer doesnt have an enclosure doesnt mean you cant print abs. It helps. Abs is very prone to warping in the print stage. So a heated bed is essential. An enclosure just help a bit more and a basic one can be build out of sheets of plexiglass. In an old house like mine prone to wide swings in house temp and air currents ABS printing is rough without said enclosure..
 

Excelsior935

New Member
your cheapest option is PLA. I would recommend PLA + or aka PLA Pro. It has a bit more heat handling ability. Leaving PLA prints in your car on a warm sunny day can be rather bad for there health. And just because your printer doesnt have an enclosure doesnt mean you cant print abs. It helps. Abs is very prone to warping in the print stage. So a heated bed is essential. An enclosure just help a bit more and a basic one can be build out of sheets of plexiglass. In an old house like mine prone to wide swings in house temp and air currents ABS printing is rough without said enclosure..
Thank you for the response, between PLA and PETG which is better for cosplay use. I live in the desert and outside temp often reaches 115-120 fahrenheit so I’m also a little worried about heat damage just from being outside.
 

MoeSizzlac

Member
Thank you for the response, between PLA and PETG which is better for cosplay use. I live in the desert and outside temp often reaches 115-120 fahrenheit so I’m also a little worried about heat damage just from being outside.
PETG is better for the heat where you live, unfortunately I have no idea how it fairs on finishing. I love ABS for it's finishing ability (sanding and painting).

On a slightly related note for others that use PETG (and maybe this will help Excelsior935)
1) How is the finishing of the product?
2) Does it sand well?
3) what is the best glue to use?
 

Kusak3

Active Member
Thank you for the response, between PLA and PETG which is better for cosplay use. I live in the desert and outside temp often reaches 115-120 fahrenheit so I’m also a little worried about heat damage just from being outside.
PETG is better for the heat where you live, unfortunately I have no idea how it fairs on finishing. I love ABS for it's finishing ability (sanding and painting).

On a slightly related note for others that use PETG (and maybe this will help Excelsior935)
1) How is the finishing of the product?
2) Does it sand well?
3) what is the best glue to use?
My experience with PETG has been less then stellar.. PETG is a food grade plastic it has excellent heat handling. I tried about this time last year to work with it and I could never get either of my printers dialed in. At that time there was no profile in simplifty to work with PETG. Every piece I printed failed structurally. I was in one of those I have a bad nozzle/feed kind of behaviors and I could not find the sweet spot with it. One of my friends has recently done some work on his S5 printer in PETG and he says simplify has a profile for it now but I just haven't gone back to try. From what I noted on my own prints and his. It leaves a lot of artifacts in the print process. a lot of strings and blobs because it oozes. The striations seem to be a bit more obvious. But in comparison to PLA it is a softer material when it comes to sanding and sands a lot easier. I only use a bit of super glue to stick things together and myself I tend to heat weld everything with a spade tip in my soldering iron. Personally I lean more to ABS if I were to switch over from PLA> Considering your heat ranges you are going to have to look at PETG or ABS in general. I wont say PETG wont work just my own experience is kind of flat and at 25 dollars and complete replacement of a hot end after the last attempt I am not inclined to try again.
 

Gixk2

Member
ok I've 'tried' to read everything here but it may as well be in a completely different and very foreign language! I have recently bought a small 3d printer and a small hobby cnc and laser engraver. Now, I have no idea how to go from an obj or stl file (not even sure which format it needs to be in) to a completed print. I know about making sure print bed is level, hot, etc but its the software I am struggling with. I have fusion 360 which I have managed to ruin several files with, blender which, well its complicated lol and there is a program on the laptop called windows 3d builder? So, are there any really really easy idiot proof video tutorials that can guide me through set up of machine (s) to actually running a print please? And I mean its gotta be really really easy and simple to follow lol
many thanks from a 46 year old technophobe :confused:
 

SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
ok I've 'tried' to read everything here but it may as well be in a completely different and very foreign language! I have recently bought a small 3d printer and a small hobby cnc and laser engraver. Now, I have no idea how to go from an obj or stl file (not even sure which format it needs to be in) to a completed print. I know about making sure print bed is level, hot, etc but its the software I am struggling with. I have fusion 360 which I have managed to ruin several files with, blender which, well its complicated lol and there is a program on the laptop called windows 3d builder? So, are there any really really easy idiot proof video tutorials that can guide me through set up of machine (s) to actually running a print please? And I mean its gotta be really really easy and simple to follow lol
many thanks from a 46 year old technophobe :confused:
You’ll need a slicing software such as Cura (free) to take an stl or obj and convert it to gcode for the printer. Easy as that. And cura has a ton of profiles for printers so chances are yours is on there. I’d imagine the same for your CNC and engraver (these two I’m not familiar with but operate similar to a 3d printer. So there must be software )
Here’s a tutorial series on how to get started. I thought this guys content was pretty good without getting too technical. But should get you printing
Noob's 3D Printing Guide - YouTube
 
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TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
ok I've 'tried' to read everything here but it may as well be in a completely different and very foreign language! I have recently bought a small 3d printer and a small hobby cnc and laser engraver. Now, I have no idea how to go from an obj or stl file (not even sure which format it needs to be in) to a completed print. I know about making sure print bed is level, hot, etc but its the software I am struggling with. I have fusion 360 which I have managed to ruin several files with, blender which, well its complicated lol and there is a program on the laptop called windows 3d builder? So, are there any really really easy idiot proof video tutorials that can guide me through set up of machine (s) to actually running a print please? And I mean its gotta be really really easy and simple to follow lol
many thanks from a 46 year old technophobe :confused:
For beginners that are jumping into 3D printing and CNC as a hobby there's a few channels on YouTube that I watch in the background while working on projects to glean helpful tips.
Some are more technical, have brand biases (sponsorship), broad spectrum or hobbyist than others but they all cover good topics and have excellent presentation.
 

ObiJ3ff

Member
Who would like to help this noob with learning how to do things in the world of 3D.
 

ObiJ3ff

Member
I have 2 helmets that i am trying to get ready to have them 3D printed for my suites. Halo 4/5 Recruit Helmet & the Halo Wars Spartan Helmet. I have both files one is a game asset file & the other is a pep .obj file that i need to be converted into a 3d .obj file. I have looked at what the Recruit helmet looks like in meshmixer but it doesnt look right. It seems to be too smooth & its missing is flatness & curves.

I tried to open the recruit helmet in blender & the object of the helmet seems to be to far out and not in the center. Also every time i open up blender it has a preset cube, light, camera in the scene is this normal? If i can ever figure out how to get it how i want it to look & get it ready for printing would be the main goal in this. Most of my armor is made from foam except the helmet which is why i want to 3D print my own.
 

SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
I have 2 helmets that i am trying to get ready to have them 3D printed for my suites. Halo 4/5 Recruit Helmet & the Halo Wars Spartan Helmet. I have both files one is a game asset file & the other is a pep .obj file that i need to be converted into a 3d .obj file. I have looked at what the Recruit helmet looks like in meshmixer but it doesnt look right. It seems to be too smooth & its missing is flatness & curves.

I tried to open the recruit helmet in blender & the object of the helmet seems to be to far out and not in the center. Also every time i open up blender it has a preset cube, light, camera in the scene is this normal? If i can ever figure out how to get it how i want it to look & get it ready for printing would be the main goal in this. Most of my armor is made from foam except the helmet which is why i want to 3D print my own.
3d printable halo wars helm. FFA series number 2 - Halo Wars/MKIV helmet As to getting the basic of blender, YouTube is your friend! This thread helped me get into blender. Tutorial: 3D Printing Pepakura Files with Blender
 

ObiJ3ff

Member
I will have to go over this tomorrow after having some rest.

That Halo Wars Mark IV Helmet is Amazingly beautiful. I pray's whom ever modeled that. Even included mesh to breath. Thanks for linking me. Now i hope to get that recruit helmet to that same treatment eventually.
 
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SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
I will have to go over this tomorrow after having some rest.

That Halo Wars Mark IV Helmet is Amazingly beautiful. I pray's whom ever modeled that. Even included mesh to breath. Thanks for linking me. Now i hope to get that recruit helmet to that same treatment eventually.
It won’t comw overnight. I’ve been at a over a year now and have barely scratched the surface. I can make things printable but I can’t actually model.
 

MoeSizzlac

Member
I have 2 helmets that i am trying to get ready to have them 3D printed for my suites. Halo 4/5 Recruit Helmet & the Halo Wars Spartan Helmet. I have both files one is a game asset file & the other is a pep .obj file that i need to be converted into a 3d .obj file. I have looked at what the Recruit helmet looks like in meshmixer but it doesnt look right. It seems to be too smooth & its missing is flatness & curves.

I tried to open the recruit helmet in blender & the object of the helmet seems to be to far out and not in the center. Also every time i open up blender it has a preset cube, light, camera in the scene is this normal? If i can ever figure out how to get it how i want it to look & get it ready for printing would be the main goal in this. Most of my armor is made from foam except the helmet which is why i want to 3D print my own.
With blender, Yes, all new files come preset with a cube and a camera. you can right click them to select them, hit the delete button and then "yes" and they are gone.

As far as the object being far away from center:
1) make sure the object is selected (either right click the object directly till the edges are highlighted yellow or left click the name of the object in the top right of the screen).

Untitled 01.jpg

2) click on the + in the upper right corner of the picture to bring out the extra information

3) Move your curser to the middle of the screen and press "Tab" to enter edit mode.

4) Press the "A" button until the entire model is selected (highlighted yellow) and look at the x, y, and z values under "Transform"-> "Medium" in the upper right corner. Make sure they all read zero.

Untitled 04.jpg

5) Again, move your curser in the middle, press "tab" again to bring it into object mode. Re-check the numbers in the upper right again to make sure they say zero.

Your object will be in the dead center of your workplace after you do this.
 

ObiJ3ff

Member
So with the help of Pete i was able to understand & learn some basics from him on MeshMixer. Here is what i have so far.

Halo_4_Recruit.jpg

I still need to figure out my scale of my head so the helmet can fit. Also need to figure out how to change the thickness of the helmet because its got a pink inside. Also need to smooth helmet out more. I tried to do some smoothing in Meshmixer from a youtube video but still looks a little bit the same. Its fun learning something new. I also learn by watching or someone showing me the ropes.
 

3DVagabond

Jr Member
Okay
So with the help of Pete i was able to understand & learn some basics from him on MeshMixer. Here is what i have so far.

View attachment 268447

I still need to figure out my scale of my head so the helmet can fit. Also need to figure out how to change the thickness of the helmet because its got a pink inside. Also need to smooth helmet out more. I tried to do some smoothing in Meshmixer from a youtube video but still looks a little bit the same. Its fun learning something new. I also learn by watching or someone showing me the ropes.
I was in the same boat as you a few weeks ago. Same situation, but different helmet. First things first. You are going to need to find out the circumference of your head around your nose. Out of all of the facial parts on the body, that sticks out the most and if you scale it across your forehead, you are not going to get an accurate measurement. The average size head is about 24 inches give or take. If you take this number and divide it by Pi (3.14), 24 / 3.14, you are going to get this value on the calculator:

7.643312101910828

But you will only need these numbers: 7.64

So you are going to have to round up to 8 inches + the thickness of the padding you are going to need for said helmet by millimeters to get your final measurement. As far as your vertical height, the average head is about 9 inches. Take the measurement around your chin/jaw and do the same thing as the horizontal measurement. Finally for your depth measurement, I suggest a simpler method that is not as complicated. Use the "sillouette method." To do this, you can have some one make the markings for you. Lie your head down on a piece of paper and have someone to mark a line the end of your nose and mark a line at the back of your head. Take the measurement there and convert them into millimeters...

Or you can get some very large calipers and take your measurements that way.

As far as adding thickness to the helmet, you are going to have to go back into your 3d Modeling program and create the thickness there. Meshmixer can repair and create some form of thickness, but if you want to dial it in exactly, use the 3d modeling program you use to export it there.

Hopefully, that can take the guess work out of that part. Size it accordingly and you should be on your way to printing it out.
 
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TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
As far as adding thickness to the helmet, you are going to have to go back into your 3d Modeling program and create the thickness there. Meshmixer can repair and create some form of thickness, but if you want to dial it in exactly, use the 3d modeling program you use to export it there.
I find that Blender 2.8 is the king here. Meshmixer can do offsets but it's often messy or inconsistent in quality when working with high poly count objects such as helmets. Blender 2.79 can calculate the offset in several seconds, Blender 2.8 will be done within two seconds and Meshmixer will chug away for minutes and then produce a fatal error.
 

3DVagabond

Jr Member
I find that Blender 2.8 is the king here. Meshmixer can do offsets but it's often messy or inconsistent in quality when working with high poly count objects such as helmets. Blender 2.79 can calculate the offset in several seconds, Blender 2.8 will be done within two seconds and Meshmixer will chug away for minutes and then produce a fatal error.
True. You can use Blender to create the thickness needed and getting the result is not as difficult as you think. In my progress thread, I stated that if you have the helmet cut in half, highlight everything related to mesh and scale it down towards the cursor after changing it to Pivot Center, you can create the shell needed. My personal recommendations would be at least 2 millimeters for strength. However, I would also suggest that you bring in a 3d mesh that composes of the head and neck for reference and make any adjustments to the helmet.

So, in summary, you need to:

Add in digital head
Adjust mesh to digital head
Create duplicate of helmet and cut it in half
Then create shell by sizing it down.
 
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