3d printing.. sneeky joins for large parts?

[moofactory]

Im looking at investing in a 3d printer for a lot of things.

But being a past pep maker, I thought id come back and take a new approach and challenge with a 3d printer to make all the armor parts. (or as much as possible)

I got to thinking where the limitations might be on doing the larger parts like the torso and helmet. I have a 28 x 15 x 15 cm space to print in, (makerbot replicator 2)
so Id have to come up with a creative way to break down the torso and helmet into components that fit within that space.

I guess it would be a similar approach as to how vinyl models are designed to fit together at the appropriate places.

In the case of the Mark VI helmet for example id imagine having to design a snap lock mechanism like most plastic products use to join components together. Or perhaps dowel like joins similar to how action figures are joined and then glued together.

I like the snap idea better simply because pending its a snug fit...
they can come apart if required.

The join would also depend on the material used.
I will have access to PLA filament or ABS.

Main question I guess would be, has anyone already done any 3d printing on here?
And would anyone be interested in setting up armor files for 3d printing?

Id like to see if anyone's interested in taking a high def helmet and breaking it down into individual components (separating components of differing colors, the blacks from the greens etc) And come up with a join design for them to lock together when assembled.

Just an FYI
3d printing is starting to be come quite affordable (in relative terms) for as little as $800-$5000, The makerbot replicator 2x im planning on getting is around $3000.

Id say with enough members on here with access to 3d printers or owning their own.. we may see enough demand for a 3d printed section in the forums.

I wont be starting to print until around January next year (rep 2x release time)

 

[Thundertotum]

Ok here is my advice take the build platform area and subtract 10mm's, so if it's 100mm by 80mm it would 90mm by 70mm that way you make sure your not that close to the edge. Also enclose all the openings on your bot to keep in the heat, even with a heated build platform you will want the extra heat to prevent warping. These are tips I've found in the reprap forums, I don't have my bot completed yet due to life getting in the way

 

[BritKnight]

I've seen people use either acetone or the tip of a hot glue gun to melt the plastic along the seams. You'd have to sand/smooth it anyway to get rid of the ridges.

One thing (I own a replicator) that you cant stress enough: Level the build platform as often as you can! It helps with the first layer sticking (not warping). Another way to prevent warping (besides Thundertotum's advice) is to clean the platform with nail polish remover (acetone) while its heating up.

A couple other things can help with warping:
1. Lower infill settings reduce the chance of warping
2. Print with a raft
3. Smaller bases reduce the chance of warping
4. Uneven cooling of the piece (due to breezes, etc.) makes warping almost certain

Another factor is time. The longer a piece is printing, the higher the chance of warping is. If you are filling the build platform, then chances are it will take a while. I looked into printing the magnum a while ago, and it turned out to take more than 9 hours for less than half the pieces! If I were certain that it wouldn't mess up, that wouldn't be a problem, but as it is, I would have needed to watch it throughout those 9 hours!

 

[Evilpenguin]

things like weapons, knees, attatchments seem good on 3d prints but full armour sections might not work too well. i want to see what a laser cutter will be like for props never havign to cut out a few hundred pieces again lol

 

[KingRahl]

It's not likely to print a wearable set of armor, but I think you could manage to mould it for copies. I think the 3D printers are your best bet for working weapons though. Such as taking the guts out of an airsoft pistol and printing a shell for them.

 

[moofactory]

This is a pretty good example of what could be done.
http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printing-an-Ironman-Helmet/

It gives some pretty good tips on how to approach this method.

Having said that, larger parts like the chest/back plate id expect could get costly to print due to volume.
(pondering a way to use the printer for detailing large parts but pepping the base under structure
as a base to mount the pieces onto.)

For example... Using a low def helmet slightly scaled down as the base for the high def helmet to sit over in the mesh.
Then use the low def to subtract the space on the high def so when the high def pieces are printed out the sit almost perfectly on the surface of a pepped low def build.
(use the low def as a skeleton structure for the high def parts to skin onto)

 

[KingRahl]

Having said that, larger parts like the chest/back plate id expect could get costly to print due to volume.
(pondering a way to use the printer for detailing large parts but pepping the base under structure
as a base to mount the pieces onto.)

For example... Using a low def helmet slightly scaled down as the base for the high def helmet to sit over in the mesh.
Then use the low def to subtract the space on the high def so when the high def pieces are printed out the sit almost perfectly on the surface of a pepped low def build.
(use the low def as a skeleton structure for the high def parts to skin onto)

I would use the "solidify" tool in Blender. It creates an even thickness.