3D Printing Tips

[HeyYouShutUp]

Hello all! In about a month or two I will be purchasing a 3D printer and was wondering what recommendations you all have. Such as filament types (PETG or TPU) and different printers that people have experience with. I have been looking into a Creality CR-10 V2. And for future halo cosplay, I was thinking about using a mixture of PETG and TPU filaments. Any thoughts or tips are greatly appreciated!

 

[Fallen]

PETG is a good option since it's fairly easy to print compared to ABS and more resistant to higher temperatures compared to PLA. What I have found to not be as easy with PETG is sanding. ABS just seems to sand so much easier, although that could just be perception. Using a coating like XTC-3D helps there as it fills in those layer lines and lessens the amount of sanding you need to do. Haven't tried TPU yet, so can't help you there. Have heard that printers like the CR-10 struggle w/ flexible filaments due to using a bowden extruder, but also that there are ways to mitigate that without moving to a direct drive.

 

[HeyYouShutUp]

PETG is a good option since it's fairly easy to print compared to ABS and more resistant to higher temperatures compared to PLA. What I have found to not be as easy with PETG is sanding. ABS just seems to sand so much easier, although that could just be perception. Using a coating like XTC-3D helps there as it fills in those layer lines and lessens the amount of sanding you need to do. Haven't tried TPU yet, so can't help you there. Have heard that printers like the CR-10 struggle w/ flexible filaments due to using a bowden extruder, but also that there are ways to mitigate that without moving to a direct drive.

I wasn’t aware of the cr-10 issue I’ll look more into that. From what I’ve seen tpu is pretty flexible so I was thinking about maybe doing an undersuit with it maybe. Thank you for the info!

 

[Fallen]

Yeah. I have some tpu, but haven’t used it yet. Just something I found while researching. But I’ve also seen people post having no trouble w/ it on a CR-10. If it works, even with some adjustments or upgrades, it’s completely worth it IMHO for under suit parts or other pieces where we might want some flexibility.

 

[Purplehazey]

I heard good things for petg as a filament to use. I havent personally used it yet due to time.

Protip

Never let your printer be unattended when putting the first layer or two down.... else you get this...

 

[HeyYouShutUp]

Yeah. I have some tpu, but haven’t used it yet. Just something I found while researching. But I’ve also seen people post having no trouble w/ it on a CR-10. If it works, even with some adjustments or upgrades, it’s completely worth it IMHO for under suit parts or other pieces where we might want some flexibility.

Awesome! When I get my printer I’ll get some PETG and TPU then I’m not very crafty enough for EVA. I’ll have to post pics when I start my project.

 

[HeyYouShutUp]

I heard good things for petg as a filament to use. I havent personally used it yet due to time.

Protip

Never let your printer be unattended when putting the first layer or two down.... else you get this...

View attachment 283022

Oh no! What caused that?

 

[Purplehazey]

Oh no! What caused that?

Not ensuring it adhered to the bed for the first layer... user mistake...

 

[TurboCharizard]

Haven't tried TPU yet, so can't help you there. Have heard that printers like the CR-10 struggle w/ flexible filaments due to using a bowden extruder, but also that there are ways to mitigate that without moving to a direct drive.

Nailed it. Flexibles and bowden style extruders are a tough go on a stock machine since the filament compresses and builds up pressure instead of feeding as expected of a more rigid filament. TPU and Soft PLA seem to be the go to for semi-flex materials but both have their pros and cons like any material.

PETG likes hot environments and slow[er] movement for printing to get the best possible detail so the machine might not do too well in a basement or garage (cold/drafts) and you'll overall take a bit more time to print a full SPARTAN. Also bed adhesion is a consideration, I'm not sure what the stock CR-10 V2 comes with for a bed but PETG needs a good first layer to grip onto and certain materials are better than others. I've heard that PEI sheets are on the side of "too good" and sometimes come up with the print.

 

[HeyYouShutUp]

Nailed it. Flexibles and bowden style extruders are a tough go on a stock machine since the filament compresses and builds up pressure instead of feeding as expected of a more rigid filament. TPU and Soft PLA seem to be the go to for semi-flex materials but both have their pros and cons like any material.

PETG likes hot environments and slow[er] movement for printing to get the best possible detail so the machine might not do too well in a basement or garage (cold/drafts) and you'll overall take a bit more time to print a full SPARTAN. Also bed adhesion is a consideration, I'm not sure what the stock CR-10 V2 comes with for a bed but PETG needs a good first layer to grip onto and certain materials are better than others. I've heard that PEI sheets are on the side of "too good" and sometimes come up with the print.

I believe the Cr-10 V2 comes with a heated bed which is supposed to be good for adhesion. I haven’t heard of PEI sheets I’ll have to look into those. I’m not too worried about print time I don’t wanna rush it XD but thank you for your advice!!

 

[ButterBacon3000]

I can confirm that the cr-10 does indeed have a heated bed... that's literally the only thing I know for sure... that's the printer I use, but I'm a total noob when it comes to actualy knowing stuff about it.

 

[Fallen]

CR-10 has a heated bed. I replaced the glass plate w/ a BuildTak flexplate, and have had no issues with adhesion. Also added an enclosure to maintain a consistent environment, but that was more for ABS than PETG. On my other printer I used PEI tape on a flexplate and it’s worked pretty well. Sometimes stuff doesn’t stick right away, but adding glue stick usually works.

 

[Coreforge]

I just coat my print bed any other print with watered down PVA glue. Since it isn't heated it takes some time to dry, but if the first layer is thin enough so it sticks well, it really holds on and can be a little bit difficult to get off. I also haven't had any warping issues with this method.

 

[TurboCharizard]

CR-10 has a heated bed. I replaced the glass plate w/ a BuildTak flexplate, and have had no issues with adhesion. Also added an enclosure to maintain a consistent environment, but that was more for ABS than PETG. On my other printer I used PEI tape on a flexplate and it’s worked pretty well. Sometimes stuff doesn’t stick right away, but adding glue stick usually works.

I have two Tevo Tornados that are a heated glass bed with a PEI sheet to protect from bed leveling whoopsies that might shatter the bed. The satisfying pop of a print coming off

PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet - 0.8mm Thick - CLEARANCE

Buy 0.8mm thick PEI sheets (polyetherimide) in Canada for 3D printers at low prices online.

spool3d.ca

 

[Fallen]

The satisfying pop of a print coming off

PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet - 0.8mm Thick - CLEARANCE

Buy 0.8mm thick PEI sheets (polyetherimide) in Canada for 3D printers at low prices online.

spool3d.ca

This is what I love about the flexplates. Bend it back a bit and hear that pop. Even otherwise hard to release prints come right off.

 

[HeyYouShutUp]

This is what I love about the flexplates. Bend it back a bit and hear that pop. Even otherwise hard to release prints come right off.

I’ll have to get one of those!

 

[D3LTA]

Heyo, just in case no one else said it, keep in mind that 3d printing isn't a perfect science and that pieces may require sanding, along with genuine love and affection after they are printed.

 

[HeyYouShutUp]

Nailed it! I was thinking about using a mixture of bondo, filler primer, and spot putty. My knowledge of sand paper is kinda hazy though

 

[D3LTA]

Heyo, just in case no one else said it, keep in mind that 3d printing isn't a perfect science and that pieces may require sanding, along with genuine love and affection after they are printed.

To clarify what I mean, I have an issue with Z wobble on my printer that I still need to fix, which causes the different layers of the print to not perfectly line up on the perimeter. The printer has no problem printing it, but the final product has lines in it similar to this:

What happens is that some lines are above where they should be, while others are lower, what I've been doing is sanding down and puttying up to reach the midpoint. Still happy with the final product, but it's extra work I have to put in.

 

[HeyYouShutUp]

To clarify what I mean, I have an issue with Z wobble on my printer that I still need to fix, which causes the different layers of the print to not perfectly line up on the perimeter. The printer has no problem printing it, but the final product has lines in it similar to this:
View attachment 283038
What happens is that some lines are above where they should be, while others are lower, what I've been doing is sanding down and puttying up to reach the midpoint. Still happy with the final product, but it's extra work I have to put in.

what’s the way to fix that?