An easy way to fiberglass the inside.

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tsau mia

Okay, heres the thing. I just did my fiberglassing today, outside, in the rain, in about 32+ degrees.

You can use both fiberglass mat or fiberglass cloth. It doesn't really matter. It's more of a preference.

I used fiberglass mat. It stuck to the resined brushes if you didn't put enough on. So to solve that problem, I made a batch about twice the size of normal, and just poured about a quarter of it inside the dome of the helmet. I used a paintbrush to spread it about, and what do you know, the annoying fibers stopped sticking.
The trick is to glue down your fiberglass first, then wait for it to dry at least a little bit, and then resin. That way your fiberglass has something other than your paintbrush to cling to.


WARNING: Make sure you resin at least two layers on the OUTSIDE first. There's so much resin on the inside that it will

Step 1: Pour A LOT of glue into your helmet, and spread it around with a paintbrush. I used the paintbrush that was all hard and nasty from resining the outside. Make sure you have a nice looking layer. Wood glue, elmers glue... whatever. It just holds the fiberglass mat or cloth in place and makes the fiberglass stick to the pepakura.

Step 2: Put gloves on, and eye protection. This IS important. You do not want little slivers of fiberglass bothering you for the next three days. Trust me, it doesn't feel good. That and it's a pain trying to get everything off your hands. (Glue, fiberglass, bondo)

Step 3: Carefully put the fiberglass into place, using the bristles of a non-glue brush to press it into the corners (a new one works). This is where the glue comes in real handy. In those corners. Make sure you cover all of the inside of the helmet.

Step 4: Make a 8-10 ounce batch of resin. If it's cold outside, use about 2-3 drops more than the can says per ounce. Don't forget to put on your respirator.

Step 5: Pour a quarter of it into the dome. Tilt the helmet around to spread it as far as possible, until it seems pretty covered. Spread with the new paintbrush you had out earlier until some fibers begin to stick. Make sure it doesn't really drip too much.

Step 6: Repeat step 5 with one side of the helmet, then the other, and finally the back. If you need more resin, don't be cheap and try to spread it thin. Just use it. Your helmet will be stronger.

Step 7: Sit outside for a half an hour to forty five minutes with a hair dryer pointed at the inside. You can also set it up so that the hair dryer just blows in constant air. Keep it on hot, cause it's cold outside. By the time 30 minutes has gone by, you should be able to touch it and it seem dry. It's really not, but the helmet is at least transportable now.

Step 8: Let it sit (with or without the hair dryer) and clean up. Put in a waterproof space with ventilation, or away from people. Sheds, garages, attics, closets in an unused part of the house, a bathroom with a fan, etc.


PS I used fiberglass mat and wood glue. I've heard the cloth doesn't stick to the brush, but it soaks up more resin. Also, because I used so much resin, it will take longer than 24 hours to cure. It'll take probably double that to completely become solid. Hope this helps!
beautiful, this will really help me in this dang michigan weather, not cold enough to snow, just cold enough to be useless....grr. thanks though :D
One little trick though! Place a piece of rigid material across the underside of the visor, the paper WILL sag when it gets wet or soaked, resulting in a rather ulgy mess to have to clean up/fix!
Nice idea. Never tought of using wood glue.

But pics would be very very very helpfull

EDIT : And Darth, I thought you were dead! XD It's been a while ^^
Very Nice, I thought of doing something similar but using a heat gun I have. Thanks for confirming this will work. Gah I hate Michigan weather!
awesome work. awesome. This is good information that noobs could use. No pics, but the detailed instuctions make up for that and more. I'd sticky it.
zeke6785 said:
thanks great help ill prob do this idea cuz West Virginia weather is mainly garbage this time of year too

LOL you should try washington state! Its the entry point for every storm in the country I think!!
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While I was fiberglassing some of my pieces, I set up a little "curing station" in my garage. The outside temp was about 20d F, so it was about 35 or so in our uninsulated detached garage. I used a couple of clip-on lights (the industrial ones, not the cheap plastic ones) with 75W bulbs in them and aimed them towards the piece(s) that I had just fiberglassed. I placed them about 6-10 inches away from the piece so that there was enough heat to aide in the curing process, but not enough to catch the piece on fire. I also used my 500W halogen light as well to give an overall warming effect. With this setup, I was able to cure out pieces in about an hour and a half in 35 degree weather.
That's basically what I use, except one of the lights instead of two. That is a 300W/500W halogen work light. It would certainly do the trick.
I'm in Oregon, and it seems that every time I go to work on my helmet, it seems to be freezing cold and wet. Every time. Then the off days are sunny and in the high 40s.
yeah Québec is really cold and they have snow
but i can do it in my garage whit the door open if I doesnt want to die
Dont even try the cloth belive me. It does stick to brush if not better then matting. I destroyed my first pep helm because of that.
Step 8: Let it sit (with or without the hair dryer) and clean up. Put in a waterproof space with ventilation, or away from people. Sheds, garages, attics, closets in an unused part of the house, a bathroom with a fan, etc.


j/k I dont care, in fact now that i think abbt it i dunno if it WAS you who posted on my thread wit that method, either way, it really does work

good tut, thanks!
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I really don't know how great of an idea it is to use a hairdryer to set bondo. So, I decided to go and check a .pdf on Bondo's health hazards which gives a rather decent arguement:

Flammability summery: Flammable

So, be careful when you use a heater to help dry the resin.
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