Another Noble Team noobie in need of advice

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Evansy

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After playing Reach (my first halo experience too) I've become a little obsessed and decided to make some armour. My plan is to make the standard Noble Six armour to start with and then as and when I get time make add ons like the UA hemet upgrade or various shoulder upgrades (most likely the recon or para ones) which attach with magnets (or hot glue:rolleyes)

So far I've got my helmet pepped but it's my first time using stiff card stock as I usually just pep small stuff out of 110gsm paper rather than the 200+ gsm which I have used for this.
I'm just a little worried that it hasn't turned out very well and isn't worth carrying on to the resin stage so could anyone give my any advice as to if it is worth carrying on or would it be better in the long run if I binned this helmet and chalked it up to experience and tried again taking much more care.
Here's an overall pic.
SDC13518.jpg


And the bits I'm worried about.
DSC_0015.jpg

It's quite bowed inwards here, it's the same on the other side too.
DSC_0014.jpg

This part sticks out to a sharp point at the top of the indent.
DSC_0016.jpg

on the visor seems to bow inwards and looks a little crooked to me as well.

There are also quite a few places where the edges don't quite line up properly either from when I was using my glue gun and the glue cooled while it was still quite thick or from when I swapped over to super glue and it moved slightly while it was drying.

I've also got another quick question. There's a lot of talk about using glue guns (which I tried).
Which type are people using as I have one which takes the 11mm sticks which I use for DIY but when I tried it out for this the glue was just too thick and tended to just come out of the gun in big gloopy lumps which is ok for DIY but isn't too good for this application.

Thanks in advance for any tips and advice anyone can give me,
Rick.
 
Can you fix it with your fingers?


Might still try it, Bondo the crap out of it to make it disappear...
 
It just springs back into the deformed shape and I don't really want to be holding it in shape when if I put any resin on it.
 
I wouldn't worry with the visor cause it will be removed later. I think as far as the dents in the top, try putting some rein from the inside. One side at a time. The weight of the rein should be enough toreduce the dents. If it dosen't take care of it completly, theres always bondo.
 
It just springs back into the deformed shape and I don't really want to be holding it in shape when if I put any resin on it.

Try putting in a support strut between the two dents. Also make sure that the helmet isn't supposed to look like this - not all unprinted surfaces are actually flat, because Pepakura Designer does by default not print lines for almost-flat folds.

Considering you have used such heavy cardboard, the result is really good, I wouldn't trash it.
 
i agree with putting in some small supports inside to hold it while you resin (wish i did that >_<), but in the end layering bondo/rondo will cover all this, since my noble 6 had some parts that dented inward i just put more rondo in that area and sanded it.
 
Thanks for the advice. I've hot glued some supports in to hold the dents out and I'll hopefully resin it tomorrow, well as long as the weather holds.

I've got another question for the more experienced or just people with an eye for this sort of thing.
does my chest piece look the right size? I know it's not finished yet but I don't want to do too much if I end up having to scrap it.
Untitled-1copy.jpg


The only thing I can think of is if it turns out that it is a little small I could always just split it down the middle and add in an extra inch or so before I resin it.
 
seems fine, any bigger and you wont even be able to put ur arms forward =P!
 
Good point, I'd not though of that. I was going by how small the neck opening was and how I can see it being very uncomfortable if I leave it how it is. But I suppose I could replace the inner collar with foam when it's done.
 
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