Any And All Things To Lead To Iron Man

Deadmau5head Specs

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Ryan Ward

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Hi there people of the INTARWEBZ! I'm Ryan; and I'm an avid Iron man fan (that is to say, if you couldn't tell) and I have hopes to make a fully-functional Iron Man suit (sans the arc reactor and rocket-boots). I'm waiting for Starx's build to finish (Y'know, to use his PEP files)so in the meantime, I will start working on some of the tech involved (starting with some stuff from the helmet, along with it's PEP model). So since I'm just gonna prototype it, I'm gonna build a Deadmau5 head (for those of you that don't know what that is, Google it, because I may not post a picture) so that I have plenty of room to work with. The plan is to start with the Video feed, then audio, then probably neuralnet control (all helmet stuff). So when I start this project (sometime after my Europe tour in April- May), I suppose that I'll post the culmination of any more research that I do here,along with reference pics, project pics, and other stuff. Anyway, since it is Iron Man, most of the tech either doesn't exist, or is way to expensive for me. If you would like to help (I probably will desperately need help...) please, jump on the bandwagon!



Now For The Part Where I Tell You Some Of My Research Part 1: Power

I now have a somewhat feasible power supply (besides batteries), and that would be a Thermoelectric Generator, or TEG for short. The TEG utilizes the thermoelectric effect with a thermocouple (I will explain both of those later) to generate electricity. So in essence, Heat + TEG= Electricity. Oh, and i WILL repeat myself down there, so don't get stressed by it.



Now for the TECHNICAL JARGON

You don't have to read this if you don't want to.​



A thermocouple is a junction between two different metals (usually either Copper and Iron, or a Ferrous and non Ferrous metal) that produces a voltage related to a temperature difference. Thermocouples are a widely used type of temperature sensor and can also be used to convert heat into electric power. This can be achieved by, instead of sending electricity through the connections, which will produce a "Hot" junction and a "Cold" junction, heating one junction and cooling the other, generating what we have come to know as electricity(I will explain how in the latter) Most thermocouples are cheap, interchangeable, have standard connectors, and can measure a wide range of temperatures. The main limitation is accuracy due to the fact that most system errors; temperature differences less than one kelvin can be difficult to measure.



The thermoelectric effect, also known as the Seebeck Effect is the direct conversion of temperature differences to electric voltage and vice versa (similar to solar cells in concept, but instead with heat). A thermoelectric device creates a voltage when there is a different temperature on each side of two junctions. Thermodynamically speaking, when voltage is applied to the circuit, it creates a temperature difference at the two junctions. At an atomic scale (more specifically, charge carriers), an applied temperature difference causes charged carriers in the material, whether they are electrons or holes, to diffuse from the hot side to the cold side, similar to a classical gas that expands when heated; hence, the thermally-induced current.



The thermoelectric generator that I would like to use is loosely based off of a radioisotope thermoelectric generator (RITEG), which is an electrical generator which obtains its power from radioactive decay. In such a device, the heat released by the decay of a suitable radioactive material (most commonly Plutonium 238, curium 244 and strontium 90, but Polonium 210, Promethium 147, Caesium 137, Cerium 144, Ruthenium 106, Cobalt 60, Curium 242 and Thulium isotopes are also used) is converted into electricity by the Seebeck Effect using an array of thermocouples. RITEGs can be considered to be a battery-like device, and have been used as power sources in satellites, space probes and unmanned remote facilities (such as a series of lighthouses built by the former Soviet Union inside the Arctic Circle). RITEGs are usually the most desirable power source for unmanned or unmaintained situations needing a few hundred watts or less of power for durations too long for fuel cells, batteries and generators to provide economically, and in places where solar cells are not viable. Also,I WILL NOT BE USING RADIOACTIVE MATERIAL (too expensive, dangerous, illegal, and whatnot).



Now, on with more detail about this specific generator. This generator will be a type of thermocouple, in which the heat will be provided by a HHO flame (Do I need to explain THAT too?? It'll be down there!), and the cooling will be provided by the room temperature air. These thermocouples are similar to ~1mm plates and pretty cheap. I'll have an array of these, light them up, and see how much voltage and amperage I get.



HHo, also known as Oxyhydrogen, and Dihydrogen Dioxide, is a mixture of Hydrogen and Oxygen, in a 2:1 molar ratio, the same proportion as water (hence, being water without being water). This gaseous mixture is occasionally used for torches, the processing of refractory materials, stage lighting, and was the first gaseous mixture used for welding. Oxyhydrogen will combust when brought to its autoignition temperature (around 570°C - 1065 °F). The minimum energy required to ignite this mixture would be a spark of around 20 microjoules (that's 20 millionths of a joule). At normal temperature and pressure, HHo can burn when its hydrogen content is anywhere between 4% and 95% hydrogen by volume.

When oxidized(in this case, burned), HHo converts to water vapor and releases energy, which sustains the oxidation reaction; Ahem, (241.8 kJ of energy for every mole of H2 burned. The amount of heat energy released is independent of the mode of combustion, but the temperature of the flame varies. The maximum temperature of the flame is around 2800 °C, and is achieved with a pure stoichiometric mixture ( this temp. is about 700 degrees hotter than a hydrogen flame in air). When either of the gases are mixed in excess of this ratio, or when mixed with an inert gas like nitrogen, the heat must be spread throughout a greater quantity of matter, and the maximum temperature will therefore be lowered.



Whew, that was a lot. So don't go nowheres, there's gonna moar...But I'm tired of typing so much, so I'll put more on later. (MAY INCLUDE PICS!!)



Oddly enough, I found something that could really help me a lot, AND IT'S ON THIS SITE! Just visit Sithslayer's thread here- HERE



By the way, the prefix is most likely wrong for the fact that I don't know how to classify it.



@Iren00- Duly noted.
 
I love these tech ideas. Not too long ago their was a similar build going on for the MkVI armor. linky-link. They abandoned the thread to share ideas using google wave, so if you have a wave account you might be able to contact them, and share some of your ideas and get help and such.
 
Hi all, mini-update here (pics only). Please forgive the askew nature of the helmet, It's my first time pepping it, and i stayed up last night to get it up for you guys. I don't really like the way it turned out (ehh, i'll have to make a new one anyway- It's too small for my head.) So since this is here, I can relax now. I'll start working on a version of the Deadmau5 helmet this weekend (probably).



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yeh as dubean said score them with a knife or a couple of times with a pen so it makes clean folds, Also i cant see any numbers on here so did you just build it looking at the Pep viewer it's alot easier to pep when you print on cardstock with the numbers on.



As for the idea of a full super suit, i dont mean to be judgemental here but i don't see this happening... Don't get me wrong i support you fully and it will be great to watch your updates and i hope that you manage to do it, but come on even just making a suit using card>FG resin>Bondo>Paint starts to build up on price and as i assume your at school with your previous post saying so. Will money turn out to be an issue here? If so there is no point starting a super suit just yet.





Good luck and i will be watching with my eyes wide open looking from wisdom from you if you manage to actually complete this.



Good job on the PEP especially when it was paper and had no numbers on it! can't wait to see your next try with Cardstock and numbers.



MADsMoKe



(EDIT) oh u used cardstock, maybe you are using to much glue and that is what is warping the card so quick, your folds could be cleaner though but all in all not to bad.
 
Hey Guys, Not much new for today, just a "plan" update. I intend to build several helmets, all leading up to a fully functional Iron Man helmet. So The helmets that I intend to make (In Order) are the DEADMAU5 maushead, and then the Daft punk Helmets (by they way, if anyone could send me links for some good peps of Daft Punk helmets, i'd really appreciate it). I need all three helm peps made by mid-April, molds made by May, and 2 Mau5heads, and 6 total Daft Punk helmets by mid-June. I think i can do it. Any help is much appreciated too. (by the way...need wiring diagrams and such for those LEDs.)













Maushead-(thanks to Deviantart user lemmonade!
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Daft Punk Helmets(two pics) -
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P.S. Don't flame me for using images that aren't mine. I don't take credit for them, and i just needed some reference pics.
 
speaking of flaming, how do you intend to power your suit without setting fire to it? cool stuff though, I am keeping an eye on this.
 
TheHow7zer said:
speaking of flaming, how do you intend to power your suit without setting fire to it? cool stuff though, I am keeping an eye on this.



At this point, Probably batteries.
 
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I almost did my senior project on people power using thermocouples. Decided against it. A full armband thermocouple can create just enough current to run a wrist watch.



Neat idea to use an exothermic reaction to power the thermocouple. Since the thermocouple has to come in direct contact with the heat source, wouldn't the reaction melt it?



PS: your sig is epic
 
I think that video you have is just for a faceplate that lights up it does not actually show you how to Motorize the faceplate.



The best way that i could see to motorize the faceplate is running a hinge thts motorized. I'll try and find a tutorial.
 
Tiny update. Started pepping the DEADMAU5 sphere, noticed that it was about 7 inches too small. So instead of pepping it, molding it, building it up, sanding it down, and repeating all that, I'll have to find a substitute.(maybe a beach ball) Which I'll probably fiberglass, bondo, then sand down. In which case I'll want to start that daft that Daft Punk helmet. So as soon as I learn Volpinprop's (aka DerKraken) technique of Sculpting it out of Expanding foam, then doing stuff, i'll do just that.



Hmmm...Speaking of expanding foam, i could probably cast an 18x18in cube and sculpt a sphere out of it...I'll have to look into that.



Still, guys, Wiring diagrams, and general electronics for the Daft Punk Helmet lighting would really help!
 
Lol I looked into this thread and was like Sithslayer? wuuuuuut? :eek It looks really good, I'd love to see how your Mau5head comes out. There is a WIP thread for a Daft punk helmet that somebody has on the forums, but i cant find it...
 
Dude, If you are able to pull this off... I will worship you like a god. I so want to do a build like this, but i know my skills are no where NEAR good enough to even think about it! Looking forward to more updates! :)
 
I have an update... WITH PICS!!!! By the way, The drawings were meant to be scanned, but i couldn't find my scanner. I had a camera, so i just said "meh." and I photographed it.



Before I say anything else, Here's the reference image that I used.

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The head from straight on. I redesigned the Ears slightly, I wanted them to be a bit slimmer, and more modern looking. (Think "0" over "O".)

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Side view. Yes, I know it looks like Pac-man. I couldn't get the ears right, so I just left them out in the final

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My Drafting test sheet. The two up there are final (or near final) versions.

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My very first draft test of the Mau5head. Tested head size, mouth size and ear size.

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Now, My original plan was for the head to have an 18 inch diameter, and i realized that would be massive! So I'm gonna make 5 helmets- 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18 inches, respectively. I've decided to go with DerKrakken's Method of sculpting the sphere out of foam. Before I do that though, I need some tips. Should I make the box out of MDF board or cardboard?
 
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