anyone need help 3d printing armor/costumes?...im here to help!

[spi3]

Hey guys!

Just in case you missed my introduction, here's a little bit about myself....

Name: Henry Tarrio
Profession: Business owner of a security camera company by the name of Spie INC
Age: 28
Favorite Hobby: paintball, Skydiving and Working!!!
Favorite part of halo: The return of the chief
Favorite Halo: 4
Favorite Video Game: Halo or BF series
Other Interests: Bacon
Favorite Food: Bacon
Favorite Finisher: ithe face =]
Favorite Band: Nickelback im F****** kidding kids =\....Metallica
Favorite Movie(s): Fight club
Other: I ran to my mailbox....thats about it


ive been a member here for about a year or two and ive never really posted (sorry for that). I read a lot of howto's and look at all the amazing work this community does. I've tried to make armor out of the files ive downloaded, i've even gone as far as buying the card stock =\ (didnt get passed that part lol)

Well here i am two years later just browsing the forums again, but this time ive purchased a 3d printer for my company for other work none costuming related and im willing to help you guys out and help myself in the process in creating a set of armor for myself. I need someone (or a group) thats willing to put some time and effort into this as much as i want to.

ive searched the forums a couple times for threads on 3d printing, all those threads are old and technology has advanced. i currently own a Replicator 2 from makerbot. it prints with a resolution of about 100 microns whereas the last thread you guys had on 3d printing was in 2010 where printer technology was at 450 microns. do some research you'll see that the quality is of good quality. It also prints in PLA plastic instead of traditional ABS, which for the nature of what we need it for is perfect.

What im asking for is for someone who is willing to take the time to help me model this in an STL or OBJ format. im willing to provide my printer and plastic as needed. this is a two way street the person who helps me with this i will give a whole suit of the finished product to their height and size. But im in need of someone who will put in the hours im willing to put in and the effort. need it be webcam, phone or this amazing forum im here to help. i also have a preference if possible for someone local but that doesnt matter

i hope this doesnt violate any of the n00b forum rules i watched that orientation twice and read the stickies a couple times. if it does im sorry in advance

Waddaya say?

 

[Arioch]

Hey most of the pep files area available in .obj format. I can collect them and send them to you if youd like. Im not sure that qualifies for a set of armor, lol, but Ill help you out. Just let me know which files you need. Also, if you ever sell plastic armor, let me know!

 

[rundown]

i'm planning on making subD models for 3d printing soon. I actually made a new section on my website.

 

[blue2k]

Wouldn't it be inordinately expensive to print a full sized wearable suit using a 3d printer? Sorry for my lack of knowlege in this area (it is one I have never looked into). What is the estimated cost of printing a full suit?

 

[spi3]

Hey most of the pep files area available in .obj format. I can collect them and send them to you if youd like. Im not sure that qualifies for a set of armor, lol, but Ill help you out. Just let me know which files you need. Also, if you ever sell plastic armor, let me know!

well really what im looking for is someone that would be able to slice the OBJ file into piece im able to print in full size. as of right now my 3d printer can print in the following dimensions 11.2 L x 6.1 W x 6 H in(12.75 in diagonal). If you can help me with that....you can help....i will also be documenting on this forum my exact procedures so you guys would be able to do exactly the same if not better

 

[spi3]

Wouldn't it be inordinately expensive to print a full sized wearable suit using a 3d printer? Sorry for my lack of knowlege in this area (it is one I have never looked into). What is the estimated cost of printing a full suit?

im willing to take that cost in at the expense of making a new way to build these....im not rich but i have a little play money

 

[spi3]

i'm planning on making subD models for 3d printing soon. I actually made a new section on my website.

run down im willing to pay that amount but if i can get it in slices of 11.2 L x 6.1 W x 6 H in(12.75 in diagonal). plus i need a way to be able to put them together IE: tabs, clips, screw ETC

 

[Arioch]

If you want sliced files, there are a few out there. You may want to talk to L3X, hes getting good at that stuff. Still willing to round up what i can for you if you want.


EDIT - I think I know what you mean after thinking a little while about it. I will look into figuring that out now in case you dont find someone who is already capable.

 

[spi3]

your help wont go unrewarded....im dieing to get this started. just made an ironman helmet today....needs slight sanding but it looks AMAZING!!!

 

[Katsu]

A 3d print job requires a good 3d printer that won't butcher your work, Replicator2 with an accuracy of 100 microns runs at 2200$ (and I'd like to add that it supports OBJ format, so there's no need to convert everything to STL), and will run 48$/spool of PLA.

The UP is the lower end of 3d printers, and runs 600$, it yields low res results around 400 microns, at a max size of 5x5x5" like this (after three prior prints that weren't even camera-worthy:

This is a mid-range Makerbot at around 1800$, resolution is about 200-300 microns also at about 5x5x5":

Just showing them to give a bit of a visual reference to the difference between a 2010 printer (the UP) and a 2011 printer (the makerbot). I haven't gotten to use a replicator2 yet, but the software is the same as the makerbot.

I have to warn anyone trying to 3d print these that it is not a simple task. Especially on things like armor, which is essentially a "hollow" piece, it's going to be building a hefty raft and support structure to prop it up, and most pieces will need to be chopped up in 3d model and then re-attached after printing, but if money is not an option, then time will be your only enemy. The needler "tongue" I pictured is an example, that's two pieces (The third wasn't ready yet but you can see the hole for it in the middle of the tongue). It's not impossible, for sure, but the process is definitely much easier to do with guns than armor. Another thing to consider is, each of those little pieces of the needler took 2-4 hours to print.

I am absolutely in love with the makerbot we have, but I am wary to say you can "print elite class armor" on them, as they're designed for rapid prototyping, not production level items.

Between PLA and ABS, PLA wins overall, it's food safe, prints more reliably, and requires less heat, but ABS trumps it in strength (ABS is flexible while PLA is stiff and brittle), and ABS support material tends to work a lot better than PLA which can fuse strongly onto the object, but PLA does still win overall.

If you're on a replicator2 (which has the resolution and material specifications you're indicating), you shouldn't worry about STL files, I dump files straight from pep designer into MakerWare. I'm a teacher for these things, so if you have questions I can maybe offer some help too!

 

[Xavior217]

A 3d print job requires a good 3d printer that won't butcher your work, Replicator2 with an accuracy of 100 microns runs at 2200$ (and I'd like to add that it supports OBJ format, so there's no need to convert everything to STL), and will run 48$/spool of PLA.

The UP is the lower end of 3d printers, and runs 600$, it yields low res results around 400 microns, at a max size of 5x5x5" like this (after three prior prints that weren't even camera-worthy:

Actually the best 3d Printer on the market are made from http://www.stratasys.com/



This is a mid-range Makerbot at around 1800$, resolution is about 200-300 microns also at about 5x5x5":

Just showing them to give a bit of a visual reference to the difference between a 2010 printer (the UP) and a 2011 printer (the makerbot). I haven't gotten to use a replicator2 yet, but the software is the same as the makerbot.

I have to warn anyone trying to 3d print these that it is not a simple task. Especially on things like armor, which is essentially a "hollow" piece, it's going to be building a hefty raft and support structure to prop it up, and most pieces will need to be chopped up in 3d model and then re-attached after printing, but if money is not an option, then time will be your only enemy. The needler "tongue" I pictured is an example, that's two pieces (The third wasn't ready yet but you can see the hole for it in the middle of the tongue). It's not impossible, for sure, but the process is definitely much easier to do with guns than armor. Another thing to consider is, each of those little pieces of the needler took 2-4 hours to print.

I am absolutely in love with the makerbot we have, but I am wary to say you can "print elite class armor" on them, as they're designed for rapid prototyping, not production level items.

Between PLA and ABS, PLA wins overall, it's food safe, prints more reliably, and requires less heat, but ABS trumps it in strength (ABS is flexible while PLA is stiff and brittle), and ABS support material tends to work a lot better than PLA which can fuse strongly onto the object, but PLA does still win overall.

If you're on a replicator2 (which has the resolution and material specifications you're indicating), you shouldn't worry about STL files, I dump files straight from pep designer into MakerWare. I'm a teacher for these things, so if you have questions I can maybe offer some help too!

Every fortune 500 company has the FORTUS 900MC it's the best 3D printer on the market. The UPRint is the cheapiest they sell at 10,000 USD. THe next up is the Deminsion seen in J-lenos garuage vids when he uses his NextEngine 3D Scanner. The Dimension cost 32,000-40,000 USD. The cheapiest 3D CnC on the market is the PlasmaCam. Just type in www.PlasmaCam.com they will send you a infomational DVD if you want. You can build from about 17 inches up and have the CnC machine it down along the outsides. You can flip over the helmet or whatever you're working on and have it mill out the inside so you can get your head or hands in. CnC to buy the machinery isn't cheap by any means. But knowing how to obtain one is a good thing.

 

[VIzardErebus]

I was wondering if it would be able to copy another physical object and recreate multiples, or would i have to have the object scanned and send the file to anyone who has a CnC? I was hoping on doing a commemorative 405th medallion and sending it with each of my finish pieces as a celebratory gift for being with the 405th on its 7th birthday. Ive started carving it out of clay, but i wanted to know if it could be scanned and replicated within the same processes, or if i need to stop and just make a digital file.

 

[Xavior217]

I was wondering if it would be able to copy another physical object and recreate multiples, or would i have to have the object scanned and send the file to anyone who has a CnC? I was hoping on doing a commemorative 405th medallion and sending it with each of my finish pieces as a celebratory gift for being with the 405th on its 7th birthday. Ive started carving it out of clay, but i wanted to know if it could be scanned and replicated within the same processes, or if i need to stop and just make a digital file.

Of course you can create mutpile copies of a design. How big is your board. Have your design inverted to create the most patterns ---> and Up. One kewl way you can do this is to flip the object complete 180 degrees and align it about a bit away from the other object so you give the router, lathe or Plasma cutter some room to cut. You can cut in rows of 2, 4 it just depends on the CnC machine you have access to. Do you have the file in OBJ? If so I can convert it into .STL for you and you can tell the CnC machinist I need this many copies of it and he can take it from there. Just hit me up in a email on here or on my private email regretfulflyer@aol.com .......^_~> Enjoy.

 

[VIzardErebus]

Of course you can create mutpile copies of a design. How big is your board. Have your design inverted to create the most patterns ---> and Up. One kewl way you can do this is to flip the object complete 180 degrees and align it about a bit away from the other object so you give the router, lathe or Plasma cutter some room to cut. You can cut in rows of 2, 4 it just depends on the CnC machine you have access to. Do you have the file in OBJ? If so I can convert it into .STL for you and you can tell the CnC machinist I need this many copies of it and he can take it from there. Just hit me up in a email on here or on my private email regretfulflyer@aol.com .......^_~> Enjoy.

so confused. I know nothing when it comes to any of that..... except OBJ. file... i know what that is. I dont have any file. I have a pile of clay im modeling. Is there a way to scan the model in real to digital and in the same process, carve out a copy?

 

[KingRahl]

so confused. I know nothing when it comes to any of that..... except OBJ. file... i know what that is. I dont have any file. I have a pile of clay im modeling. Is there a way to scan the model in real to digital and in the same process, carve out a copy?

You may want to try using http://www.123dapp.com/catch or if it's a flat image carving (not unlike a coin) you can watch this video

.

 

[spi3]

well i know its going to take a couple trys to get it off the ground....ive made a couple of small projects and theyve come out pretty good. Just needed some sanding dremeling and an acetone wash....i just need the files in multiple pieces in order to print them. i have some OBJ files ready but i need the to be cut in pieces i can build. the forearms chins and upper arm pieces can be printed in one go....but the helmet chest and thighs need to be cut....my personal email is th3spi3@gmail.com....im ready to start i have 30 lbs of PLA plastic ready to go....its on you guys

 

[corpseguy]

I just got myself the Ultimaker which i'm rebuilding to a larger scale
Ultimaker printers as low as 250 microns but i feel resolution for our needs isn't really that big of a deal.

The biggest issue i have found is not with the machines but with models which have to be water tight for them to be prepared for printing.

 

[spi3]

I just got myself the Ultimaker which i'm rebuilding to a larger scale
Ultimaker printers as low as 250 microns but i feel resolution for our needs isn't really that big of a deal.

The biggest issue i have found is not with the machines but with models which have to be water tight for them to be prepared for printing.

*clap*......good machine

 

[corpseguy]

Ha! thanks. Honestly? Yes. i was recommended by a friend in Canada.

It came in kit form.. their instructions certainly need some reworking but honestly? yeah. i am over the moon with it. i sent you an email regarding a few things. hope thats cool ( don't wanna hijack the thread lol)

Not the same print size as the replicator 2 but the fact i had to build the thing has given me alot more of an understanding of the machine and its limits

 

[spi3]

Ha! thanks. Honestly? Yes. i was recommended by a friend in Canada.

It came in kit form.. their instructions certainly need some reworking but honestly? yeah. i am over the moon with it. i sent you an email regarding a few things. hope thats cool ( don't wanna hijack the thread lol)

Not the same print size as the replicator 2 but the fact i had to build the thing has given me alot more of an understanding of the machine and its limits

The dimensions are amazing! hows the print quality?