Anyone Use Smooth Cast 326?

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smick6

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The topic say it all. I got some smoothcast 326 to try out and its not drying 12 hours after a pour. I pre-mixed the part a and b before pouring. Small silicon molds 1/2" thick by 2" x 6". I have made enough cast swith there sc305 so I am pretty sure its not a problem I am causing. Its a 1 to 1 ratio, thats pretty hard to mess up.
Any body have similair problems? I made the change so I could have blue/ black spiker castings. The pigments dont work good with 305 (bubbled) so they suggested the 326. I may just be stuck with the 305.
I dont know, I'm just rambling cause I am annoyed?
 
link4044 said:
did you add some of the pigment to it?

Ya one drop. I am going to try it again.
The smooth on dude says it wasnt warm enough after 3 hours in the house when it was only 50 degrees out side.
It wa on the front porch for about 2 hours.
We will see.
 
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link4044 said:
ah ok. i was getting to that in my series of questions...glad it was answered


I figured you could answer some questions, I probably should have just pm'ed you. Someone else could learn from this I guess. Lessen learned== let urethan plastics come to room temp over night or else waste money and make huge mess!!!
I was in to much of a hurry to try it and didnt let it get to room temp long enough. I did mix it but apperently it was still not warm enough. I tried another cast today and it dried fine. I guess thats what happens when you experiment. I will say it takes the dyes really well. I will be casting a full spiker in a blue black tint this weekend, that will be the real test.

I also am trying out their copper powder but I dont think its that great but its ok. I might need to increase the powder ratio to get a better sheen with steel wool. Have you used that stuff before? Any pointers?

I almost forgot to ask is there anything you have used to clean out a silicon mold with uncured urethane in/on it?
Stuff is super sticky.. :(
 
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