[Central] Moldmaking for newbies

Discussion in 'Halo Costumes and Armor' started by falcon NL, Oct 2, 2007.

  1. ryancap97

    ryancap97 New Member

    This helps a whole lot. Thanks!
     
  2. yoda45

    yoda45 New Member

    why in the world is this even in here?
     
  3. whiteninja1990

    whiteninja1990 Jr Member

    I don't know but it scares me.
     
  4. Rosh

    Rosh

    yes. very very scary.
     
  5. FlpKck

    FlpKck New Member

    Really wish all of the pictures were working...
     
  6. HaloReplicas

    HaloReplicas Member

    dude, where have you been, you haven't been online for a year on msn, and those pictures aren't working indeed.
     
  7. Joshua Morrison

    Joshua Morrison Jr Member

    Had a question but found the answer in here awesome tutorial wish I wasn't so cheap and would of spent more on silicon but thats ok I guess...
     
  8. Joshua Morrison

    Joshua Morrison Jr Member

    Just learn the hard way if you are using smooth cast 300 us very small amounts...
     
  9. eternallydusk

    eternallydusk Jr Member

    Is it prohibitively expensive to create an entire mold of Spartan armor? I'm curious about trying it out, but I don't have much experience in the area and I can't tell how expensive it would be.
     
  10. Moonscape12

    Moonscape12 New Member

    could you mold around a peped helmet
     
  11. Deputy Dog

    Deputy Dog Jr Member

    Does anyone know how to make a fiberglass mold? Any help on this would be great. Thanks
     
  12. Chantelle

    Chantelle Jr Member

    You can cheat around how much clay is used and minimise your costs by sculpting over another object. My favourites are the white foam mannequin heads you usually find at hairdressing salons. I don't know where they're retailed overseas but in Australia you can buy them from HHB. I then apply the clay straight onto the foam.
     
  13. XxLoli RogerxX

    XxLoli RogerxX New Member

    Will this method work for being durable? If someone fell over in this armor would it break? Using this method to make my armor, Will the armor be durable enough to stop a paintball?
    A few friends of mine and I have been looking into playing paintball in our reach getups. So we need to know the most durable form of making armor for our spartans.
     
  14. Chantelle

    Chantelle Jr Member

    Technique and the number of layers used are a large part of it but armour can be reinforced by lacing it with screens or mesh bought from your local hardware store if you're concerned.


    On another note,
    I've noticed a lot of people lately saying they've been using Smooth Cast Roto in place of the 300 series.
    Be careful how and when you use Smooth Cast Roto as it's prone to sagging from heat. Being in the sun is enough to cause worrying drooping, and never ever leave pieces made from this in your car. It can be reformed with a heat gun but that risks ruining any electricals and paint work that have been added.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
  15. killjoy95

    killjoy95 Jr Member

    Thanks for this, it is very helpful and highly detailed. xP
     
  16. Crazymanongames

    Crazymanongames New Member

    Just a thought, might want to clean up the post a bit, there's a bunch of random numbers and signs (I know that they MEAN something) that are kinds distracting.
     
  17. hey guys. Im looking to mold a handplate and a grenade. Ive heard about how you can just put a cup around the piece, secure it, and pour in some rubber. My question is, will that work and provide a mold with minimal air bubbles using rebound 25? really concerned that if i dont brush it on, Ill lose a lot of detail
     
  18. Roadwarrior

    Roadwarrior Well-Known Member

    What you could do is do 1-2 brush-on layers then put it in the "cup" and pour, that way the detail is saved and bubbles aren't too much of an issue. But I haven't any experience yet, so I could be wrong.
     
  19. Brandon McClain

    Brandon McClain

    If it something like a handplate or nade you can do that. Check out mold star 15. It takes longer but it doesn't need to be vacuum degassed so it will work well for what you want
     
  20. Spartan 010

    Spartan 010 Jr Member

    PLEASE forgive my necro-ing.

    Is it possible to take liquid plastic, brush it on my foam prop and let it harden; thus making a hard plastic shell around the foam prop? That way it's more durable and easier to paint.

    Thanks :D
     
  21. DanBakerOnline

    DanBakerOnline New Member

    010, You can take a resin like Smoothcast 45D or 65D, which have a gel profile and are good for rotocasting. Pout a bit into your mold and rotate to coat all sides (or brush it in) and let it cure. Then you can back it up with the foam of your choice. Remember to pour your foam in stages, so that the pressure doesn't distort your mold. Pour in a bit, let it foam, pour in a bit more, etc.
     
  22. jbvirus

    jbvirus New Member

    Does anyone know where I can buy a Mannequin head? I really want to start making helmets and I see a lot of people using Mannequins heads to start the process.
     
  23. torsoboy

    torsoboy Member

    Mannequin heads are going to be too small in general, and will often come with sculpted hair which would get in the way of sculpting and symmetry. Instead, you'll be wanting a sculpting head armature, which is generally a life cast of someone with average facial proportions (and often time they come bald.

    http://www.monstermakers.com/product/deluxe-full-head-sculpting-armature-life-size.html
     
  24. jbvirus

    jbvirus New Member

    Oh wow thank you very much, I am going to get this with my next paycheck.
     
  25. jtr7227

    jtr7227 New Member

    is there anything else i can use instead of silicone to make a mold because i dont have alot of money to go buy silicone
     

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