1st Build CQC Helmet Issues

[Queen Zoey]

Hoping someone here can advise, but I'm having issues with the scaling of MoeSizzlac's Reach CQC Helmet. More specifically with the bottom, as if I scale it to be big enough to fit my head through, it's just absurdly large, and of course at a reasonable size for the rest of my head it won't go on. Unfortunately due to my inexperience there's no way I can actually get a decent finish on this without lots of gap filling and sanding, which means having a separate part for clipping/magnetising together would end up ruining the overall build. Is this an issue anyone else has had, and if so how did you fix it?
I've added screenshots from Armorsmith to show just how ridiculous it has to be.

 

[N8TEBB]

So the thing about halo helmets is they're actually really small for the size of a spartan. Luckily with halo infinite helmets, the walls are a bit straighter so you are still able to get the helmet on even though it is really small. With your reach helmet you have a few options: see if there is any material you can remove from the file that would allow your head to pass through without taking away any aesthetics. See if you can print a test ring (cross section of the helmet) and test how well it does over your head. I think you will be able to make it smaller than you might think. Hope you find a way to make it work! Good luck

 

[Cadet]

Like Nate mentioned, Halo helmets, like many video game and CGI helmets, don't correspond well to actual human anatomy. The Reach helmets are especially notorious for this. That is the reason that for several sellers of resin Cast Reach helmets, they often come with the "Back Off" mod built in, where a portion on the back of the helmet around the neck is cast as a separate piece, either also in resin or in flexible rubber, and then attaches with magnets, Velcro, or another fastening method.

So, I would recommend doing a similar “Back Off” approach on your 3D printed helmet. I would scale it so it looks more proportional, and less overly large. You could then take the helmet file into your slicer program of choice and remove the portion around the back of the neck, and print it as a separate piece from the helmet. You could then finish and smooth both pieces independently, then work on your attachment system after. If you are very skilled in your slicer program of choice, you could possibly even add in mounting points for magnets between the neck piece and the helmet. You might also be able to find another member here with more experience who could take on these modifications to a file for you.

Another option is to go ahead and proceed with printing the helmet as one piece. Once the helmet is finished, then go in with a jewelers saw/file, a mini hack saw, or an exacto, and cut off the lower portion of the helmet by itself. Again, you could do this pre or post sanding and smoothing.

The Back Off mod is very popular with Clonetrooper helmets from Star Wars, as they were also CGI creations and as such don’t work with human anatomy when scaled to the movie proportions. There are several tutorials out there about this method for Clone buckets that could be applied to what you want to accomplish here.

Movie Realistic Episode III Helmet Tutorial - Imperial Surplus

 

[Queen Zoey]

Like Nate mentioned, Halo helmets, like many video game and CGI helmets, don't correspond well to actual human anatomy. The Reach helmets are especially notorious for this. That is the reason that for several sellers of resin Cast Reach helmets, they often come with the "Back Off" mod built in, where a portion on the back of the helmet around the neck is cast as a separate piece, either also in resin or in flexible rubber, and then attaches with magnets, Velcro, or another fastening method.

So, I would recommend doing a similar “Back Off” approach on your 3D printed helmet. I would scale it so it looks more proportional, and less overly large. You could then take the helmet file into your slicer program of choice and remove the portion around the back of the neck, and print it as a separate piece from the helmet. You could then finish and smooth both pieces independently, then work on your attachment system after. If you are very skilled in your slicer program of choice, you could possibly even add in mounting points for magnets between the neck piece and the helmet. You might also be able to find another member here with more experience who could take on these modifications to a file for you.

Another option is to go ahead and proceed with printing the helmet as one piece. Once the helmet is finished, then go in with a jewelers saw/file, a mini hack saw, or an exacto, and cut off the lower portion of the helmet by itself. Again, you could do this pre or post sanding and smoothing.

The Back Off mod is very popular with Clonetrooper helmets from Star Wars, as they were also CGI creations and as such don’t work with human anatomy when scaled to the movie proportions. There are several tutorials out there about this method for Clone buckets that could be applied to what you want to accomplish here.

Movie Realistic Episode III Helmet Tutorial - Imperial Surplus

Thanks for the suggestion, I've gone ahead with cutting off that back seal bit, but still find it slightly too tight to slide on, so I'm gonna try widening it by another 5%. Hopefully the visual difference will be minimal, and I have a feeling the in game helmet actually appears much wider than a lot of 3D models turn out. I will update once I have the parts and know how they fit.