Duke's Custom Reach Suit Pep +photos!! *WIP

Discussion in 'Halo Pepakura Costumes' started by PerniciousDuke, May 24, 2016.

  1. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives

    The game is a foot......or boot in this case. Me thinks the smile hides the truth......."They'll never know." and the proof is in the vent!!! .....if you look closely at the coloring.....if the camera was in the same location/height the coloring would be the same...however in the 2nd picture the shading of the upper grill slats of the vent is darker, indicating that you could see a little bit more into the vent shaft...which would be black since there is no light in there, hence the camera is not in the same position.

    Inspector Lestrade, take him away. Come Watson....
     
  2. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    You guys.. No shenanigans I promise. And let me tell you it feels awesome being taller! I wore them at work for a few minutes and people noticed right away. One of the tall girls I work with was pointing out all the things I had to keep from hitting my head on as we were walking around. It was pretty fun.

    Update:

    I made a new backing to my buck. It's just air dry clay from craft store. I was able to get the area around the buck to be more to my liking. Further tests showed that I will most likely need the heat gun and I'd like to trim the buck more to have it fit perfectly. I'll be at it again tomorrow.


    20170628_193404_zpsxfmxzge9.jpg

    Thanks for reading and for all the great comments!
     
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  3. CommanderPalmer

    CommanderPalmer Membership Officer

    where is teh update? >:[
     
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  4. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    I'm pepping, it's boring. :/ I'll start working on the helmet soon.
     
  5. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Here's my last update photo compared with my current one:

    Previous:
    Progress5-30-17.png

    Current:
    Progress7-26-17.png

    White/Grey = Nothing
    Yellow = Pepping
    Orange = Pepped
    Red = Hardening
    Blue = Shaping
    Green = Painting/Rigging
    Purple = Finished




    The forearms are making me hate pepping again. o_O:cry::cry:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
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  6. mblackwell1002

    mblackwell1002

    But...shouldn't your helmet be Green? Yeah, I can imagine that the forearms suck to assemble...they look tiny, detailed, round, and compact. eugh! troubles ahead!

    Best of luck, tho!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
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  7. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Thanks for pointing that out.

    Yeah, I am not happy with how the forearm was unfolded. Could have been done a lot easier. I wish I had noticed before printing it, but now I'm decently far into it so I've just got to power my way through and hope for the best.
     
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  8. SI3RRA 117

    SI3RRA 117

    I want to see the helmet with the finished visor!! Hate cliff hangers lol
     
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  9. CommanderPalmer

    CommanderPalmer Membership Officer

    I've seen Duke finally posted and update and I almost started praising the sun... then I came here and no photos.

    TEH UPDATE WAS A JOKE! >:[

    troll, well played hehe ;)

    But in all seriousness I hope to see some photos and bigger update soon.
     
  10. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    :lol: AHAHA CommanderPalmer I've never been called a troll before. It's actually kinda fun. :love:

    I promise I've been working on it. I've got everything pepped now. That's right!!! I am DONE pepping. phew

    As I mentioned before, I had a good Samaritan who cut out the remaining pieces on their Cameo Silhouette for me. But, there was still a lot left to do with gluing it together and re-cutting out the pieces the machine couldn't do.

    This weekend I will be taking my remaining pieces and finishing them all with the fiberglass. Wish me luck!
     
  11. Schankerz

    Schankerz

    YOURE DONE PEPPING
    IMG_3431.GIF
    Now that is news worth praising the sun for!!
     
  12. Kat

    Kat Jr Member

    I love that you listed your amounts and prices. It really helps me to get an estimate of how much money I should be roughly looking at spending.
     
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  13. Kat

    Kat Jr Member

    Funny enough, my username on deviantArt is Solairia-Sun XD
     
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  14. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives

    GREAT NEWS PD!!!! I'm looking forward to seeing more of your build w/ baited breath.



    Schankerz, what do you know about the sun? You live in a country of perpetual darkness....Canada. Isn't it like 5 moths of darkness or something? Or is that 5 months of snow.....? I forget. giphy (17).gif
     
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  15. electricknite

    electricknite

    Dirtdives Puhlease, we're not that much further north then NY.. well... 5 months of snow is fairly accurate I suppose.. but think of the snowboarding.

    Plus, isn't the reason we praise the sun because we never get to see it, so when it come out its a flipping miracle.
     
  16. Schankerz

    Schankerz

    He's right, the sun will regularly come out and burn our eyes by reflecting its glorious beams on the snow, demanding our praise so as the sun will benevolently melt all the snow for us later. If we fail to do so the sun will hide its wondrous face from us, plunging our land in that five months as Dirt has mentioned before.
     
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  17. Joseph Stylin

    Joseph Stylin New Member

    The documentation on your build is amazing and the build itself is incredible so far, keep up the great work!
     
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  18. bestellen

    bestellen New Member

    Oh the joy of owning an orbital sander and room to make a huge mess..
     
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  19. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Praise the Sun!!!

    I'm glad you find it helpful. I don't really focus on the prices as much as the same products I've used. Most times you can find things like the tools cheaper at pawn shops, that's what I did.

    Thank you kind, sir. As the project gets more complex it is harder to keep up the documentation. But, if anything I will go back and edit posts at some point to give better step by steps.

    Haha, I don't know what you're talking about. :unsure: :p
     
  20. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Progress:

    I've started doing the wiring for the helmet. I've done up the fans (yes two this time) and I'm most of the way through the lights. I'm going to write up some steps for the LEDs, but not the fan. Some experienced people have told me that my voltage/wiring is off on my fan so I won't pass that false information along. But, it runs for 3+ hours for me on a 9volt battery and that is good enough for me.

    20170814_193613.jpg

    The LED wiring on the other hand is pretty simple and this should give you the basic run down of how to do soldering.

    Steps to soldering LEDs


    Things you'll need (product links will be in my first post):
    (4) 5mm LED lights w/resistors, your color choice
    (4) 5mm LED light holders
    (1) Battery connector, I'll be using 9volt
    (1) Battery
    (1) On/Off Switch
    0.7 or smaller Solid Wire in Red and Black, about 2 feet.
    1/8" Heat Shrink Tubing, easier to use than electrical tape
    (1) Soldering gun
    a small coil of Rosen-Core Solder
    Flux, optional

    1. You'll need to make sure your lights have resistors. Resistors helps reduce the amount of energy each light gets so that they don't burn out instantly. The bigger the resistor the less the light will illuminate. You can buy them pre wired to resitors or you can buy them in bulk with resistors included. Many of these lights will be shining in people's eyes so I recommend a small resistor on each LED.
    1a. The resistor goes on the positive lead of the LED. The positive lead is going to be the longer of the two wires coming out of the light. With the resistors on you can touch each light directly to the battery to test that the lights work.

    2. You need to make a circuit from the LED to the Battery, positive to positive (red wires), negative to negative (black wires).
    2a. The circuit will only be interrupted by the switch. The switch needs to be along the positive line, whether it is up or down is not important.

    3. Once you have the idea of how you want your circuit (ie the length of wires, the positioning of the lights, battery and switch) you will need to solder them together. Soldering is heating up additional metal to the point of melting, adding it to something else and when it dries it hardens and makes something more solid. In this case we will use it to connect two wires together.
    3a. Start by stripping off the outer casing of the wires about 3/4" of an inch from the edge. It helps to twist the two wires together to make it easier to hold while soldering together. Keep in mind if you are making a straight line with the two wires or a coming together at a V.
    Here's what doing a straight line would look like:
    20170814_202437.jpg
    The rest of this example is going to be a V shaped weld.
    3b. This is a step I always forget... put the heat shrink tube on the wire, but away from where you will be heating. Once you're done soldering there is often no way to put the tubing on, so you must do it first.
    3c.Spread some flux on the two wires, not a lot is needed. Flux does two things, it helps clean the metal off making your solder hold better and it helps the wires heat up faster to melt the solder.
    3d. After your soldering gun has been heating up for a minute, touch the solder tip to the wires we're connecting. After 20-30 seconds the gun will have made the wire so hot that when you touch the Rosen-Core Solder to the wires it will melt like butter. You can also touch the solder to the solder gun tip, this is okay just a messier way of doing it.
    20170814_202552.jpg
    3e. Keeping the soldering gun tip held against the wire, move the solder wire up and down the two wires. It will melt and fill in the spaces between the two wires. Once you let the heat of the gun off the wire it will begin to cool and harden in under a minute. Be careful not to make sudden movements with the wires covered in melted metal as they can easily fling tiny balls of molten metal at you.
    20170814_202339.jpg
    3f. Slide the heat shrink tubing, that you previously put on, up to cover the exposed wire. Heat with a lighter quickly and evenlying to shrink the tube.

    4. Step 3 told you how to solder, now I'm going to tell you what to solder.
    4a. Each side of the helmet usually has two lights. First solder all four resistors to all four positive leads (longer wire) of the LEDs. Direction of resistor is not critical.
    4b. Now consolidate wires by soldering two leds together for each side. I never have good luck soldering the resistors directly together or the negatives from the LED directly together. So what I do is cut four short black wires and four short red wires to extend the lines out further before soldering them together.
    4c. That was confusing. Here's a picture:
    4d. Solder separately the positive and negative from each side into a single wire (one red, one black). The black one can now be soldered directly to the black line of the battering connector.
    4e. The red one needs more wire so that it can first go to the switch. Then go from the switch to the red battery connector wire. Here's the pieces laid out like a diagram:
    20170814_203122.jpg


    5. Flip the switch and hope for the best!!
    5a. Don't get discouraged if it doesn't, check all your connections and soldering to make sure nothing is loose. If everything still looks good, but not working, then get new lights and start over.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2017
  21. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives


    Sounds like you're talking from experience.........Ouch....

    You said you get 3+hrs on the 9 volt battery.....I've heard that if you used 3 AA batteries they last longer.....Not sure of the amount of power it gives off in comparison to the 9V but how much do you actually need for a small fan?
     
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  22. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Yes, you are correct on both accounts. It was like getting shot by a musket from a Gulliver's Travel little person.

    With the fan it depends on what you buy. I believe most people get 5v fans and use 3-aa batteries which is 4.5v. I have a ton of 9v batteries so I am using 12v fans. The most important thing is that your battery voltage is not higher than what you're powering, or you have to resistor it down a lot.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2017
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  23. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives

    Do you normally live around Lilliputians? And I've seen how tall you are......you are no Gulliver......

    12V fan.....? Is a bit over the top? How big it the fan itself?
     
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  24. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    12v I think is standard for PCs and 5v are standard for laptops. Don't quote me on that. It's not terrible. I got two in my helmet! They're about 2" x 2" x 1/2" each.
     
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  25. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Progress:

    Fiberglassing weekend is finally here! I had to drive a half hour out of town just to make sure these fumes don't kill anyone. Lol.

    Last night I prepped, today I resined and tomorrow I will glass.

    Here's all the pieces I have to do (the last batch!)
    20170902_132142.jpg

    Steps for Fiberglassing (post 1 of 3)

    When I first learned how to do this I had to watch a YouTube video of a guy fixing his boat, so I wanted to do a good tutorial for those of us using this stuff for unintended purposes. :)

    1. PREPERATION
    a. Don't leave any tabs unglued. Your piece needs to be as solid as it can be.
    b. Use extra cardstock to seal up holes. Use wooden tongue depressors to strengthen long flat areas. (pictured in C)
    c. Use popsicle sticks and binder clips to create support beams. (pictured below)
    20170902_153244.jpg
    d. Get all your supplies out for resining and make sure you have room to work and a place to put each piece once it's covered in this nasty stuff, it will drip.
    e. Get safe. Be in a well ventilated room with safety glasses, respirator and disposable gloves. I like to get lots of pairs of gloves out ready to go.
    20170902_132619.jpg

    2. RESIN SATURATION
    a. Since the inside has support beams we start with the outside and we do it in two thin coats so that we don't lose the proper shape due to soggy paper.
    b. Pour some acetone in a thick plastic container. This is to soak your used paintbrushes and to have some ready to go in case you need to clean up a spill.
    20170902_144730.jpg
    c. Measure out 2oz of water. Put that in a disposable cup that you have many of the same shape. Mark 2oz, then 4oz then 8oz. NEVER use resin in this cup. This will tell you how much to fill other cups. Go ahead and get some resin poured (whichever kind you prefer, I'm using laminating resin). Start with 1oz if you're only doing one piece, use no more than 2oz of resin at a time! (The 4oz and 8oz marks will be for later)
    20170902_144525.jpg
    d. Drop in the catalyst. 10 drops per ounce of resin. Once you get more experience you can mix more catalyst to speed up the drying time. Mix it up quickly and thoroughly using a popsicle stick. Scrape the popsicle stick on the side of the cup and wipe off the stick with a paper towel. You will have only 10 minutes to work now, but don't rush it.
    20170902_144817.jpg
    e. The first coat you will paint on thin. Every time you dip the brush into resin scrape off the brush on the cup. Most important thing is No Drips, No Pools and don't apply too much pressure. Being fully coated is not important. You are applying a half coat. I used 4oz for all pieces pictured at top of post. If you need more resin get a new cup and new paint brush. Here is how "dry" the strokes should look.
    20170902_144959.jpg
    The entire outside does not need to be coated. It should look like this.
    20170902_145711.jpg
    Let dry for 1/2 hour.
    f. Now we finish the coat on the outside. This time make sure there is no dry paper left. You're still only applying the same amount of resin as before. Thin coat. Watch for pools and drips. Really important to not apply too much pressure; it's easy to make a part that should be popped out dry inwards because you pressed too hard. The brush strokes will look a little more "glassy" this time.
    20170902_163954.jpg
    Let dry one hour.
    g. On to the inside. Here we will apply more liberally now that we have a semi rigid piece. You'll apply a little more than double what your previous coat was. The goal now is to make sure that every single spot is completely saturated. For all my pieces pictured at the top of the post I used 10oz of resin. Applied liberally.
    20170902_211657.jpg
    The most important thing in this step is to examine the outside before setting it down. Applying so much will undoubtedly cause pools and drips around the edge and through holes in the piece to the oitsude. Just brush it all up with a dry brush. Let the piece dry for two hours.

    *Once the catalyst is applied to resin it creates heat. This means it will burn you if it sits on your skin. Acetone dissolves the resin quickly, but acetone can also burn your skin. Rinse the acetone off your hands or arms quickly.

    *If tiny balls form as your brushing on any of the coats... Either you took too long and the resin has started to harden or you applied to much catalyst. Don't try to salvage it. Just throw it away.

    *Be mindful that the pieces can harden to what they are setting on. Newspaper is much easier to sand off than trying to replace a chunk that got stuck to a table.

    Take a deep breath. The real fun stuff is about to start.

    (to be continued)
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2017
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