Fiberglass Confusion

[MandoMan531]

no spray on, once it hardens in the nozzle you might as well throw it out. youd never be able to remove it.

btw i can make a more organized verion of this to make a sticky if its too cluttered. let me know.

and id like to reiterate the "no cloth on the outside" comment. due to the angular parts of the helmet that should be very smooth, you COULD use cloth on some outside areas like the cheeks and whatnot to soften the angles, but fiberglass builds thickness very fast and its extremely difficult to sand evenly. so unless youre fairly experienced i would work with only resin and bondo on the outside.

what does everyone use to cut out vents and other open areas in the helmet? i cant find anything to get into tight corners.

 

[Vexona]

I've heard a dremel tool works well for removing sections post-fiberglassing. Something like this bit might be an appropriate choice.

 

[imMonkeyGOD]

wow this is a great tutorial, it helped me alot more too then the original, just one question though, is there any kind of spray on resin? or would it just solidify in the can and thats why there isn't one?

None that I know of. I think I know why they don't have it. Probably cause you have to apply the liquid hardner and you cant just add it into the spray can cause it would have dried out like 15 mins after it is made

 

[imMonkeyGOD]

How long does it take to cure the helmet?
Is there anyway to fasten it?

My "testing" helmet is a bit sticky at parts when I resined it, any way to fix that?
Its been a day since I left it in my garage, its kinda cold.

 

[Macattack64]

How long does it take to cure the helmet?
Is there anyway to fasten it?

My "testing" helmet is a bit sticky at parts when I resined it, any way to fix that?
Its been a day since I left it in my garage, its kinda cold.

I was told if it is sticky to put another coat of resin on it... Maybe try a few extra drops of hardener too... Or you might be able to use a head gun or a blow dryer... :\...

Just a guess with judgement...

 

[imMonkeyGOD]

Questions!
1. Alright, I got 2 Layers of resin at the moment, but how much layers am I suppose to have?
2. How do you make a thicker coat of resin?
3. When do I sand it?
4. What is Primer?

 

[Sigma LS]

I used glass gloth on the outside and glass mesh on the inside. The cloth being thinner, keeps the details in place. The mesh on the inside is stronger withut any worries about details..
Also one thing I hope you don't mind me saying...
Sigma just said that fiberglass on the outside will take away the detail. You guys have to understand that the model printed out is a very rough geometry that has to be smooth shaded (the print out is flat shaded) and bump mapped before any of the details are visible in the game.
None of the details you see on the character are on the geometry itself therefore, if you were to actually shape the paper shell to look like the rendered armor, you'd need a healthy layer of bondo to both smooth out the model and to add all the details from the bump maps.

Not trying to be a know it all, its just in case some people missed that detail.

Have you ever tried to do detailing without covering the entire piece in bondo?
Fiberglass on the outside makes it rough and near impossible.


Resin on the outside lets you preserve texture and dremel the details in without a lot of bondo.

You also don't need bondo to smooth the edges. I mean I love bondo and everything but I want to have armor that looks good but won't crack easily or weigh a ton.

 

[imMonkeyGOD]

Alright, I resin twice outside and 1 in the inside. I'm in the process of fiberglassing but I went on trying to see if it will fit on my head like usual. To my surprise, it didn't. I barely made it to get it inside and it almost got stuck when I was taking it off. Yes, I tried to cut more of the neckline but it is too thick to work :/

Any suggestions?