fiberglass vs paper mache???

[chiefparmesan]

so im going to build a reach hazop helmet soon, this is going to be my first pep helmet. previously i have made cardboard helmets with paper mache on the outside. it didn't work too bad so now im wondering for this helmet should i use paper mache in the inside instead of fiberglass. fiberglass seems very trouble some to use however is stronger than paper mache. on the other hand paper mache is very much easier to apply and i am already comfortable with it. if any of you have experience using both of these methods i would much appreciate advice. thank you

 

[Gokussj5okazu]

Paper mache is typically not a good medium for armor strengthening. An exellent alternative to fiberglass is AquaResin.

http://www.aquaresin.com/

It works EXTREMELY well, and is completely non toxic. Also it activates with water.

 

[BiGHARYSCOTSMiN]

Allow me to redirect you to this thread where we discuss strength of your armor vs practicality.

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/39785-Paintball-Armor

If you really really want to learn from this you should try both and note your experiences... and perhaps share it with this amazing community?

Thing is, I didn't know what to use either, I didn't even know if i wanted to use Rondo or go full fiberglass until I tried. I like both so I use... both. In one piece.

I actually "came up with" a new substance which is unnamed, but it's Resin, Body Filler, Ash (from BBQs and burnt stuff), and ground down paper.

It was my attempt in recycling materials, because I had a lot of old school papers so instead of putting it in the green bin I soaked the paper in water and melted it down and turned the paper balls into powder with a blender.

It'll double/triple your material volume, and cut down on cost.

Remember to add water so it properly paste-ifies so it's applicable.

That's my take on paper mache... type stuff. Think about your philosophy of use before you go one way or another. If you want to walk around with it you should use fiberglass/rondo and if you're going to put it on a mannequin or hang it on a wall you can do anything you want... ot paper mache because I'll assume it's easier.

Remember, you need to screw up to learn, and every project calls for a different method, and different skill set. You should experiment to see what you like.

decoding a bunch of thread replies can be hell... TBH I haven't read all of the tutorials myself...

 

[Ghost Bear 027]

Not sure where you live, but if you want anything to be around for any period of time, I'd go with auto resin. I used to live in FL, and now live in RI. Both are pretty humid, and paper mache won't hold up to that very well for a long period of time.

Go to Lowes or any hardware store, it's cheaper there than at an auto store, buy a generic polyester resin instead of Bondo brand or whatever, and give it a go. Resin is actually incredibly easy to use. 6 tablespoons of resin to 1/4 tea spoon of hardener and you've got PERMANENT. With not much time, you'll figure out how much hardener to use for smaller batches (I go with 7-8 drops per tablespoon, which is probably high, but it works fine without doing anything crazy). If you want to save on the fiberglass sheets, check with any auto repair shops and see if you can get their scraps.

It's quite easy and if you can handle the mess of paper mache, you can deal with resin plenty fine.

Just keep the area well ventilated, and wear some gloves. Stuff doesn't clean off with soap and water like elmers glue will

 

[BiGHARYSCOTSMiN]

Go to Lowes or any hardware store, it's cheaper there than at an auto store, buy a generic polyester resin instead of Bondo brand or whatever, and give it a go.

Lowes? What is this stuff? I buy most of my stuff from there I'd love to know about this new resin

 

[Gokussj5okazu]

At my local Lowes it's near the paint area. It's polyester resin Elmer's brand I believe, and is a tad cheaper than Bondo brand, but just as strong. I used it a few times and the only difference I've noticed is that it is greenish where Bondo brand is brown.

 

[ArmoredCorps95]

I think you should go with fiberglass its more difficult to use but in the long run it'll last longer and if you do it right it'll look better to. So good luck.

 

[BiGHARYSCOTSMiN]

At my local Lowes it's near the paint area. It's polyester resin Elmer's brand I believe, and is a tad cheaper than Bondo brand, but just as strong. I used it a few times and the only difference I've noticed is that it is greenish where Bondo brand is brown.

Thanks, I'll try it out. ArmoredCorps95, I'll try it. I've been experimenting with all sorts of stuff maybe this stuff could improve quality

 

[chiefparmesan]

Allow me to redirect you to this thread where we discuss strength of your armor vs practicality.

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/39785-Paintball-Armor

If you really really want to learn from this you should try both and note your experiences... and perhaps share it with this amazing community?

Thing is, I didn't know what to use either, I didn't even know if i wanted to use Rondo or go full fiberglass until I tried. I like both so I use... both. In one piece.

I actually "came up with" a new substance which is unnamed, but it's Resin, Body Filler, Ash (from BBQs and burnt stuff), and ground down paper.

It was my attempt in recycling materials, because I had a lot of old school papers so instead of putting it in the green bin I soaked the paper in water and melted it down and turned the paper balls into powder with a blender.

It'll double/triple your material volume, and cut down on cost.

Remember to add water so it properly paste-ifies so it's applicable.

That's my take on paper mache... type stuff. Think about your philosophy of use before you go one way or another. If you want to walk around with it you should use fiberglass/rondo and if you're going to put it on a mannequin or hang it on a wall you can do anything you want... ot paper mache because I'll assume it's easier.

Remember, you need to screw up to learn, and every project calls for a different method, and different skill set. You should experiment to see what you like.

decoding a bunch of thread replies can be hell... TBH I haven't read all of the tutorials myself...

thank you, i will be reading up on all this. i know i won't use paper mache anymore

 

[chiefparmesan]

plastic instead of fiberglass?

hey guys, i was thinking i after i resin the whole pep a couple times i could use a two part mix plastic (i already picked one out) and make layers in the inside to strengthen it. then i could use some kind of putty on the outside instead of bondo. i don't want to use bondo, and i want to avoid fiberglass and rondo. with the putty and 4-5 layers of plastic in the inside i think the helmet will be strong enough for painball or airsoft (i prefer airsoft to paintball)

 

[Gokussj5okazu]

Slushcasting a pep model is quite common. Lots of members have used SmoothCast on the inside instead of fiberglass. However, it will NOT be nearly as strong as resin, unless you use the fiberglass mat. As far as putty goes, honestly nothing will be strong enough to withstand paintball or airsoft, not even bondo. Do what you will, but no one on this board promotes the use of standard materials for either sport.

 

[Ghost Bear 027]

Give it a go and let us know how it works. Curious to know if that plastic isn't more expensive than the resin.

BigHaryScotsmin - The stuff we have here in RI is called CARGROOM. Made by US Chemicals and Plastics. Seems to do the trick, and costs less than bondo. Maybe I'll rue this post in 5 years or something where it reacts to ozone produced from a nearby lightning strike and spontaneously melts, but as of now it seems fine.