Glue

[DylanMarx]

White Glue has always worked for me. My peps come out great. The only thing is to not put to much on the pep.

 

[CLOTHAR]

To answer the original glue question. I use wood glue and brush it on. It gives you enough cure time to work calmly, but fast enough that you don't have to hold pieces forever. Hope that helps.

 

[Bigwillie5]

o trust me i know what happens with too much elmers so ill try both methods. thank you everyone for your advice

 

[deactivyoke]

Paper mache with out adding water to the paper it works really well I did that with my first helmet.

 

[009 SPA]

I've just started to use this for my models. It's really just fancy PVA, so I'm sure you'll be able to find an equivalent.

 

[CPU64]

I wouldn't recommend anything other than white or yellow (wood) Elmer's glue. Its MADE for paper.

If used correctly, it sets just as fast as superglue without gluing your skin to the paper (bonus!)



Resin will not affect a water based adhesive, and that's also why Elmer's glue is a better choice. People having a problem with it, are simply using too much of it.

 

[Meleck]

I use Scotch Quick-Dry Adhesive. I think it's a good enough compromise. For large pieces, it works well but for small (less than 2 mm) it can be a pain to use as it takes a little while to stick. It has a little tip to apply the glue so I don't use a lot. And if I want something to really hold, I pour glue inside the piece over tabs.



I also saw that Scotch has a quick dry tacky glue, I might also try this.



I use this glue but I have NO experience with resining yet. It's too cold in Quebec these days to do this outdoors and I don't have any place to do this indoors. So I am impatiently waiting for warmer weather. It's going to be a LOOONNGGG wait.

 

[S1l3nt V1p3r]

Using regular School glue is absolutely fine to use. Hot glue burns you sometimes, and superglue dries too fast.

You are not supposed to make a thick stream of glue, but rather use the tip of the bottle to distribute a small drop of glue on the tab, then glue the pieces together, holding the Tab in place while you press really hard. This will make the glue sort of seep into both sides and cure really well. Less glue = Less hardening time, less warping and less mess. School glue is the way to go, IMHO.



As for hardening the weapon itself, if you were to somehow get a hold of some Smoothcast 300, you could pour it in there, stir it around and let the first layer cure. Repeat as many times as you feel necessary. Otherwise, you can also pour resin into the model, let it flow around into all corners and wait for it to cure, just like the hot glue method.



Hope this helps you.



Keep it clean!

 

[Unity]

Loctite- It works well for pepakura. It's a gel so it does not run. A little drop will go a LONG way.

 

[Sniperbaas]

Be careful about using white glue, for too much of it will destroy your piece. Krazy glue, hot glue, etc are used quite often. I've used expanding foam for reinforcing several pieces. If it's a weapon, I'd recommend resining the piece, cutting it in half, filling the halves with the foam, trimming the excess foam, and then reattaching the piece together. I also recommend filling the piece slightly less than halfway to minimize breakage of the piece. (That's what I do with "great stuff.") Also, the "hot glue method" works quite well for an easy strengthening of the piece. (Not the best of ideas, if you plan on wearing your piece in 70F + temperatures, however.)



Good Luck and Cheers!!!

 

[Bigwillie5]

I just remembered now that some leftover crack sealer (i wouldnt know if thats the correct name for it) leftover from when i installed tiles in my room. Its used to seal cracks nd is nontoxic and dries quickly so im thinking about using that instead of resin for the inside. Does anyone see this as uneffective?

 

[Kodorei]

Hot glue is the most convinient as if you make a mistake you can remelt it with the tip of the hot glue gun.