Kombatkooey
New Member
i have a question about sanding or wet sanding rather, ok so are u supposed to primer it first before u wet sand it???
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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You don't have to. I try to get the piece as "sanded" as I can before painting it, but I use the primer to help spot the areas that still need work. It's a lot easier to see the imperfections when the entire piece is one color.
Kombatkooey
New Member
also do u use spot putty over the primer? and will the primer affect the spot putty in any way???
Roadkiller
Well-Known Member
Like so many things in this hobby it's your choice. You can continue to sand the 'original' coat of body filler ("Bondo"), you can add another thin layer of filler to cover the imperfection you are trying to work out, or you can use spot putty. Your choice. What you do will depend on the size and shape of the imperfection.
No.
Kombatkooey
New Member
thank you roadkiller 
Hi
i was going though my basement cleaning when i saw my caulk-it bottle then checked my tools i used it with and found they were as hard as rock, and hard to clean off but i did.
i was wondering if any one used caulk instead of fiberglass or bondo.
http://www.caulkyourhome.com/caulk-it-spackling-compound.php
this was what i used.
im going to try it out on a keaton mask Im making since its easy to make another but, i was wondering if anyones used it and what do you think
i was going though my basement cleaning when i saw my caulk-it bottle then checked my tools i used it with and found they were as hard as rock, and hard to clean off but i did.
i was wondering if any one used caulk instead of fiberglass or bondo.
http://www.caulkyourhome.com/caulk-it-spackling-compound.php
this was what i used.
im going to try it out on a keaton mask Im making since its easy to make another but, i was wondering if anyones used it and what do you think
Kombatkooey
New Member
that would take a really long time to cure, wouldn't it??
Shadowind
Member
I got a question, last time I was in the local auto store I noticed something called "Full Metal Bondo", said it was made with Aluminum reinforcement for work on metal surfaces. Has anyone tried this in their rondo for a build and could you expect it to be tougher than the regular stuff?
My ultimate goal at the moment is to make a suit that won't bust if I sit down in it, so any opinions on which process (rondo or glassing) creates the stronger armor will be greatly appreciated.
My ultimate goal at the moment is to make a suit that won't bust if I sit down in it, so any opinions on which process (rondo or glassing) creates the stronger armor will be greatly appreciated.
Definitely glassing. Just use heavier cloth and/or more layers of it ;-)
RE: Metalized Bondo
I have never tried this stuff personally but I have used the stranded renforced glass more commonly know as marglass or tiger hair. This is a product similar to bondo but if has strands of glass mixed into it. They make both a long hair and shot hair type. This stuff is a bit messy to work with but it is fairly strong. Myslef I just use a combination of glass cloth and matt as they do in car bodys. I have about two or three layers of matt on there and it is very strong. Keep in mind that the more material used it will get heavy quickly. I myslef don't care about how much it weighs, I wanted it to be strong also. Not everyone has access to the thicker matt as they don't sell it commonly in box strores ect. If you want a way to make it strong and quick look around and find a local supplier for fiberglass products or maybe an automotive paint supplier. Get yourself some of the heavyier matt and after two layer placed in key positions on the piece you will make it strong very quick without the use of messy rondo ect. The inside of the part can be sanded but it will not be very smoooth just make it smooth enough to not poke you or what not. And DO NOT glass the outside of the part unless you are ready to be sanding and mudding for ever. Hope that helps. Later, Gforce598
I have never tried this stuff personally but I have used the stranded renforced glass more commonly know as marglass or tiger hair. This is a product similar to bondo but if has strands of glass mixed into it. They make both a long hair and shot hair type. This stuff is a bit messy to work with but it is fairly strong. Myslef I just use a combination of glass cloth and matt as they do in car bodys. I have about two or three layers of matt on there and it is very strong. Keep in mind that the more material used it will get heavy quickly. I myslef don't care about how much it weighs, I wanted it to be strong also. Not everyone has access to the thicker matt as they don't sell it commonly in box strores ect. If you want a way to make it strong and quick look around and find a local supplier for fiberglass products or maybe an automotive paint supplier. Get yourself some of the heavyier matt and after two layer placed in key positions on the piece you will make it strong very quick without the use of messy rondo ect. The inside of the part can be sanded but it will not be very smoooth just make it smooth enough to not poke you or what not. And DO NOT glass the outside of the part unless you are ready to be sanding and mudding for ever. Hope that helps. Later, Gforce598
Shadowind
Member
Thanks, how would you suggest I do this on the inside of the visor for Roadwarrior's MK V Helmet (reach ver.) ? I don't think I could get my hand in there to spread the mat or cloth out without deforming the helmet.
And would Bondo Hair be an equivalent to your marglass or tiger hair?
Captain Recon
Jr Member
It's typically a bad idea to be fibreglassing the inside of the visor area - you're going to be cutting it out anyways, and a few good layers of resin will generally prevent warping while you smoothe the rest of the part over.
Generally, it's a good idea to give the outside one coat of resin, maybe two - and the inside about twice what you put on the outside. Also, I'd suggest using fibreglass cloth over fibreglass matting, since it offers more strength in layers rather than plastering the inside of your helmet in thick chopped mat, and it reduces the weight of the item (since you have to use practically double the resin with chopped matting).
As for Rondo: it's a good principle to use, but I'd only use it to strengthen items I wanted to cast since it'd make the item heavier and less well-fitting.
Generally, it's a good idea to give the outside one coat of resin, maybe two - and the inside about twice what you put on the outside. Also, I'd suggest using fibreglass cloth over fibreglass matting, since it offers more strength in layers rather than plastering the inside of your helmet in thick chopped mat, and it reduces the weight of the item (since you have to use practically double the resin with chopped matting).
As for Rondo: it's a good principle to use, but I'd only use it to strengthen items I wanted to cast since it'd make the item heavier and less well-fitting.
Shadowind
Member
Small mis-communication, by visor I meant the ball-cap like brim the sticks out in front of the helmet to keep the sun out of your eyes, not the part you end up looking through.
You could Rondo the brim area. It will cover everything in there. Only problem is that it's rather heavy.
Captain Recon
Jr Member
Resin the outside, swill a few batches of resin on the inside, use some self-expanding foam if you're careful with it. That, or use a stick to poke it all down.
Shadowind
Member
Weight is no object. I intend to go through physical training while I make the armor. Hopefully by the time the armor is ready to wear I'll be military type shape. Would it be possible to mix strands of fiberglass cloth in with the rondo that is poured into the brim to help strengthen it, or would that be more trouble than help?
The whole process is a long ways down the road, but I like to get the details out of the way in advance. I'll look in to the expanding foam, but I think I'll want something a little harder.
Well, filling the brim, aka, making the brim a solid mass, would be quite heavy. However, rolling some Rondo around so it coats everything would not be too terribly heavy.
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