Ironman Motorised Faceplate Idea


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1121

New Member
this might be a stretch, but if you could carve out the inside of the helmet you could theoretically fit the servos/selinoids/ect. into the design. my first helmet had plenty of room inside the walls for LEDs and a series of 9vs and a fan in the back of the head so i didnt die of heat exhaustion lol
 
this might be a stretch, but if you could carve out the inside of the helmet you could theoretically fit the servos/selinoids/ect. into the design. my first helmet had plenty of room inside the walls for LEDs and a series of 9vs and a fan in the back of the head so i didnt die of heat exhaustion lol

See, what you really have to do is try and find the perfect combination between size and power, I think zabana has pretty much got it with his 10kg servos.

Also, i'm not sure if carving out the inside of the helmet will do an awful lot lol. It would probably be more efficient to make a cast of the helmet, because then the walls will be thinner allowing more space inside, I think that is what zabana has done too.

And welcome to the 405th 1121! Hope you enjoy it here :)
 

zabana

Active Member
In my honest opinion a servo only needs 4´6-6v, a led needs less power, about the fan... It depends if you´re going to build an entyre armor, if you do so you can place in chest back all controls (arduino and such) and fans with a tube derivate to helmet. In my opinion the less weight and things inside the helmet the better. The only reason for me to try to place inside servos is to not need to wire the hinges (simplicity is a must). In other hand legos actuators are slow and pretty bigger as a servo ( i did my homework and study all choices).

Also my helmet is a cast in polyurethane resin, so walls are thinner. Also I´m developing a new helmet (pep one) and my idea is to do "ears" separately to do perfect for allowing servos there to save room inside.

Samuel is right with the idea that 10kg is a lot, but when I choose this kind of servos was looking a little pore torque than the olds futaba fp-s148 (3kg @6v) , so the size between futaba´s one and newer are the same, so if size are equal the stronger the better. The torque depends directly in the hinge system, a smooth and with longer "arms" to move the faceplate needs less torque. So as I told before my system probably isn´t the better one, but I developed 3 of them, so the last one after tested was the choice to me. Also I want you to keep in mind I didn´t make it from one day to another, it was monts working on it till the goal was reached.

A lot of works sorry for that hehehe, but I needed to said :p

Moving on the main reason of this thread I must say that if anyone who has a working system and want to control servos with arduino I will post or send him a piece of code (my first one for testing purposes) that moves a servo by pushing a button (it moves the servo from 0 degress to 180 and viceversa when pushed again) also have implemented an antibouncing for switch and lights on leds or turn of depending on the 0 or 180 degress (to light on/off) eyes in helmet.
 

wolfshui

Jr Member
Moving on the main reason of this thread I must say that if anyone who has a working system and want to control servos with arduino I will post or send him a piece of code (my first one for testing purposes) that moves a servo by pushing a button (it moves the servo from 0 degress to 180 and viceversa when pushed again) also have implemented an antibouncing for switch and lights on leds or turn of depending on the 0 or 180 degress (to light on/off) eyes in helmet.

If one of you understand alot about arduinos, you should post a tutorial specialized for the ironman system.
 

zabana

Active Member
If one of you understand alot about arduinos, you should post a tutorial specialized for the ironman system.

I´m not a master at arduinos, but I manage it quite well for this purposes.

Here is an example code that works, it gives controll over a servo and leds to move a faceplate and lights on/off eyes. I tried to explain almost all lines to be make easier your life :p

Hope it helps to begin to understand this kind of stuff.

Here is pushbutton scheme (you can change pushbutton to place a switch)



And the code

// FACEPLATE PUSHBUTTON CONTROLL by Zabana
// This code moves one servo when a push-button is pressed from 0 to 180
// the code have an antibouncing system to avoid wrong instructions to arduino
// Another servo can be added easily following same pattern, just declare a
// second Servo myservo2; Maybe, depending on servo´s placement for the helmet
// you will need to declare also a new pos2 that is opposite to pos
// the pinout can also be changed easily if user needs to.

#include <Servo.h>

boolean buttonState = LOW;
boolean estado=LOW;
int buttonPin = 2; // the number of the pushbutton pin
int ledPin = 13; // the number of the LED pin
Servo myservo; // create servo object to control a servo
int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position

void setup()
{
myservo.attach(9); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object

pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT); // initialize the pushbutton pin as an input

pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // initialize the LED pin as an output
ledPin=LOW; // we starts with faceplate open and eyes off

myservo.write(pos); // we assume pos=0 as faceplate open, change to 180 before if needed
}


void loop()
{
// read the state of the pushbutton value:
buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);

delay (50); // we wait a little to avoid bouncing period in pushing

// Now we check if the pushbutton have been pressed.
// if it is, the buttonState is HIGH and estado is low,
// it mean pushbutton was not pressed till now (we avoid multiple pushing and let the servo moves right)

if (buttonState == HIGH & estado==LOW)
{
if (pos=0)
{
pos=180;
myservo.write(pos);
delay (500); // we wait for servo to lift down faceplate to light on eyes
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
}
else if (pos=180)
{
pos=0;
myservo.write(pos);
delay (150);
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // Faceplate lift up and eyes light off
}

estado = HIGH; // we change estado, so we will not move servo till it´s not pressed and pressed again
}
else if (buttonState == LOW & estado==HIGH) // We do a "reset" to allow now pushing
{
estado = LOW;
delay (500);
}
}
 
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KnowledgeBTrue

New Member
Hey guys this is amazing! I'm not to familiar with code and using Servo or those other components. Is it relatively easy to learn if you have some computer back ground? Also where could i get those parts?
 

zabana

Active Member
Hey guys this is amazing! I'm not to familiar with code and using Servo or those other components. Is it relatively easy to learn if you have some computer back ground? Also where could i get those parts?

Some knowledge about programming always is welcome but with the tutos and community´s help you can do whatever you´ll imagine.
About where to buy... I bought mine on ebay to this guy

http://shop.ebay.es/crazyseller2010/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

It´s a good seller.
 

curse154

New Member
There's a guy named anthonyle on youtube. He's made alot of Iron Man stuff like a full suit with a motorized faceplate. He has a couple videos about it. He also made a Warmachine suit with motorized weapons. If you ever make a perfect motorized faceplate, please share the idea. It will be a big help. Thanks.

He wouldn't tell anybody how he do it, as if he patented the idea...
 

p0g1

Jr Member
do you guys think theres room if you utilize the space in the ears. i'm thinking of boring out the area covered by the ear pods and stuffing all the electronics in there
 
do you guys think theres room if you utilize the space in the ears. i'm thinking of boring out the area covered by the ear pods and stuffing all the electronics in there

It all depends on how small your head is and how big your helmet is. The most space would have to be in the chin I think. There wouldn't be al awful lot in the ears
 

zabana

Active Member
He wouldn't tell anybody how he do it, as if he patented the idea...

Hve no sense to begin in your first post with this song again. Please keep off this kind of comments in forums, we only want to speak about armors,suits and costumes not about Mr AnthonyLe.

Thanks.
 

curse154

New Member
No offence or anything, I just hope Anthony could enlighten us on how he did it. He has by far the best I've seen. Really helpful if he could tell us.
 

zabana

Active Member
No offence or anything, I just hope Anthony could enlighten us on how he did it. He has by far the best I've seen. Really helpful if he could tell us.

I´ll never could take offense about something like this. I don´t know if his is the best or not, but if you need a hinge system check all this thread or mines and you´ll find I release a way to do it, so it´s not necesary to keep on with Anthony Le, he will never release anything so we don´t need to speak about anymore ;)

P.S: chack also this one http://www.therpf.com/f24/spanish-i...-recognition-system-suit-control-works-76175/ there is all you´ll need to know.
 
Look here, yes we all know MasterLe knows how to do it well, yet he won't release this information. We are not here to discuss wether or not he will release it or not, but how we can do it ourselves. Costuming definitely isn't about just copying everything everyone else came up with, it's about ingenuity and initiative that why we have forums, to discuss different ways of doing things because some work for some people, and some work for others. So please stop talking about MasterLe
 

SilentVelocity

New Member
Why not use Micro servos, Futaba Hitec JR and so on. Hi Torque motors.
Small enough and power full enough all you need is a controller.
They make em as small as 3/4 inch thick some smaller but i don't know about power.
in a small nutshell.

ESC FM Reciever and Transmitter Batteries and Servo.
This way you can mount the controller in ur arm or chest away form helmet. Or have wires rung across.
 

zabana

Active Member
As I told before and always said, problem is torque, small servos aren´t powerfull enough. As a rc plane flyer I know perfectly servos and their capabilities.

If you can find a micro servo with 3 or 4 real kilos of torque show me. Anyway servos I´m using are not a lot of bigger than Hitecs 1.8 or 2 kilos, so I prefer 10kilos of torque :D

And an arduino as controller is cheaper than a transmitter and receiver.

Anyway, this kind of job is always trial and error...
 
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