Let The Madness Begin, Or My Warthog Build.
- Thread starter ADOR
- Start date
- Status
UPDATE
APRIL 29TH
Redid the back where it come up again. What a clear unpissed off head it just looked wrong with me. Chopped about 3 inches off of it. Then redone my rear kick up. Then got my sides put up. Still need to work on the sides tomorrow and angle the very rear of it inward. I also chopped off part of the rear frame and got a piece ready to weld in to square it off. It was going to be just a tad too long.
APRIL 29TH
Redid the back where it come up again. What a clear unpissed off head it just looked wrong with me. Chopped about 3 inches off of it. Then redone my rear kick up. Then got my sides put up. Still need to work on the sides tomorrow and angle the very rear of it inward. I also chopped off part of the rear frame and got a piece ready to weld in to square it off. It was going to be just a tad too long.
Sangheili811
Member
Awesome build! Just out of curiosity, and the fact that I'm looking into buying one myself, what kind of welder are you using?
Sangheili811 said:
Right now i am down to my crappy 200 dollar wire fed machine. It's ok for sheet metal.( what i got it for) but if you don't have a welder at all and want a wire machine i would get a good miller. You spend more for it but it will be with you for a while. You will then be able to weld thick and thin with it. I have a old stick rod machine that i do my thick metal welding with. One important thing to look for on a welder is duty cycle. You want one that has 100% duty on lower setting at least.
Last edited by a moderator:
Ador - Hockey Puck body mounts .. they work great. 
Sorry if im a little picky on the welding - my cousin and I have been customizing cars / trucks for a long time now and we're always criticizing eachothers welding .. he's a tradesman Pipe fitter so thats his job.
Looking good so far. Keep it up, im glad you have the Arc welder for the frame work.
Sangheili - If youre looking into buying a welder, make sure you get one with a Gas bottle and Solid core wire or at least a Gas Hookup if you decide to go with a Flux core for now - you will have the option to upgrade to gas later.
Trust me, when you start welding with gas, you will wonder How or Why you ever got by using Flux core in the first place.
We use a Lincoln 210 for welding Frame with .35 wire .. but we've been considering selling it and upgrading to the Miller digital machine $$$ . Our smaller machine for sheet metal / auto body uses .25 wire.
- Dan
Sorry if im a little picky on the welding - my cousin and I have been customizing cars / trucks for a long time now and we're always criticizing eachothers welding .. he's a tradesman Pipe fitter so thats his job. Looking good so far. Keep it up, im glad you have the Arc welder for the frame work.
Sangheili - If youre looking into buying a welder, make sure you get one with a Gas bottle and Solid core wire or at least a Gas Hookup if you decide to go with a Flux core for now - you will have the option to upgrade to gas later.
Trust me, when you start welding with gas, you will wonder How or Why you ever got by using Flux core in the first place.
We use a Lincoln 210 for welding Frame with .35 wire .. but we've been considering selling it and upgrading to the Miller digital machine $$$ . Our smaller machine for sheet metal / auto body uses .25 wire.
- Dan
UPDATE
APRIL 30
Got the rear cut and welded up and leveled out. Also tacked the rear part where i cut the frame. Hope to swap out the welders tomorrow so maybe i can have it solid soon. I started working on the ft uprights. The angle just didn't look right and before i had to re do it like rear i called it a day in shop. Be back on it tomorrow.
APRIL 30
Got the rear cut and welded up and leveled out. Also tacked the rear part where i cut the frame. Hope to swap out the welders tomorrow so maybe i can have it solid soon. I started working on the ft uprights. The angle just didn't look right and before i had to re do it like rear i called it a day in shop. Be back on it tomorrow.
Sangheili811
Member
ADOR said:
The thing is, I don't have access to a 220v outlet, and the 110v machines don't seem to be much over 140a. I want it for bodywork on my prehistoric 4Runner, so I don't need a lot of amps, but everyone seems to tell me to get a more powerful machine right off the bat; that I'll thank myself later. Oh yeah, there's no way I'm flux core'ing auto body sheet metal- I will definitely be using shielding gas!
Anywho, your 'hog's shaping up beautifully, can't wait to see it done!
Last edited by a moderator:
UPDATE
MAY 1
Got a good start on the ft uprights. Every thing on the 2" x 4" is tacked in place. The 2" x 2" is there to make sure my lines were right and everything was level. I will be moving forward on it tomorrow. Cutting and using the 2" x 2" for the ft end. Then i can start looking at the roof. I am almost out 2" x 4" stock so i will have to get one more 20 ft stalk before i start on the roof. Also need to measure for a 6" wedge where the 2" x 4" and the 2" x 2" joint to make the lines flow better to match the warthogs lines over the ft tires. I got my password resent to me today for my photobucket and will be uploading to a new album there. When it is finished i will post the link to it. I leave on the morning of the 6th to go back to work for another month in Saudi Arabia. Don't know if i will get the side done before i have to go but will try. That way i can just finish up the roof area when i get back in.
MAY 1
Got a good start on the ft uprights. Every thing on the 2" x 4" is tacked in place. The 2" x 2" is there to make sure my lines were right and everything was level. I will be moving forward on it tomorrow. Cutting and using the 2" x 2" for the ft end. Then i can start looking at the roof. I am almost out 2" x 4" stock so i will have to get one more 20 ft stalk before i start on the roof. Also need to measure for a 6" wedge where the 2" x 4" and the 2" x 2" joint to make the lines flow better to match the warthogs lines over the ft tires. I got my password resent to me today for my photobucket and will be uploading to a new album there. When it is finished i will post the link to it. I leave on the morning of the 6th to go back to work for another month in Saudi Arabia. Don't know if i will get the side done before i have to go but will try. That way i can just finish up the roof area when i get back in.
dsilver668
Jr Member
Looking good....
What motor and tranny is it going to run when you are done?
What motor and tranny is it going to run when you are done?
DerKraken said:
I am Looking at few options on that. For under the warthog i am using aluminum panels pop riveted into place. I am going to use over sized rivets to give it more of the correct look. Up top and am thinking about using composite foam and fiberglass construction. ( check out a hovercraft forum to see how they do some of it ) Also i am looking at using plastic sheets. Kind of like they are using plywood on the operation chastity warthog. But i can cut the lines in it to have the right look and it can take a beating if i get it at least 1/4" thick. I know you can paint plastic, but you got to properly prep it first.
Last edited by a moderator:
roguewarrior2001 said:
It's going to depend on what i can find. It had a 203 transfer case with it but it's locked up. I have taken it apart to see if it can be saved any. It would be a good start for a 203 / 205 doubler. I am leaning toward a inline six or small block. Nothing major. I even want the exhaust to be quite unless you really get down on it. I plan on getting my "power" out of it through gearing.
Last edited by a moderator:
CPU64
Well-Known Member
dDUBb said:
I have a snap-on that takes gas, but since I can't buy a tank right now, I have to get buy with flux core.. It sucks, but I've managed to get decent welds. The only thing I don't like about it is that it pretty much needs to be all the way on 10 to get a good buzz.
The wire speed is a bit retarded as well, its range is 1-10 but the useful adjustment range is like a millimeter turn up and it goes from slow to too fast. 2 is ok, 2.01 is faster and 2.05 turn and its too fast.
On 3 the wire just jets out the tip at warp speed.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Status
