MrJamin's 3D Printed MK VI Master Chief

JGPenland

Member
Everything’s looking great so far! I feel you on the Wisconsin weather, at least it’s gonna be 50-60 this weekend (in MN at least)
If you have any experience sewing, this is a good pattern for the bodysuit, the material isn’t very stretchy, so maybe size it a little larger than normal.
 

MrJamin

Member
Roughly 40 Days of total print time, November 7th - March 9th, Over 9 Kg of Filament (supports + failed prints included) and I can say that I have fully printed everything for the armor!

IMG_20200309_211646.JPG


(Collectors edition helmet shown for fun!)

To move to the next step I started working on the helmet

IMG_20200309_222905.JPG

(yay new avatar picture)
 

G TaS

Member
Whatup G. I have 3D printed a full mark 6 halo 3 suit from custom in game files i received from a bungie employee.I can help you out if you run across some problems. Dm me if needed
 

MrJamin

Member
Long overdue update:

The past few weeks have been pretty crazy and I haven't been able to work on this nearly as much as I would like. However, I was able to make some progress tonight.

I was finally able to circle back to the helmet and get the visor to fit!
IMG_20200514_221603.JPG

Now I just need to figure out how to rig up the inside to make it sit correctly on my head. (anyone have suggestions?)

I've also been working on preparing the other armor pieces for paint.
IMG_20200514_224041.JPG

spot putty has been my friend to hide the seams in the armor. I hope the weather cooperates so that I can get some primer on some of the pieces this weekend.
 

MrJamin

Member
Got some more time tonight to work on the helmet. I was able to get some padding glued in and I wet sanded it down nice and smooth. I just need some good weather now and I will get some primer on it. I am going to go with a black primer and then I need to decide what paint I want to use. (any suggestions?)
IMG_20200519_222424.JPG
 

MrJamin

Member
Thanks to TurboCharizard on Discord for sending me down a rabbit hole I've decided to put some RGB LEDs in my helmet. I have all the parts on order and should be able to get them assembled this weekend.

Halo Helmet (1).png

Simple diagram of the electronics ill be putting in my helmet.
(Note: the DC motor is a stand-in for the fan, USB will be the power from a battery bank, Arduino Uno is a stand-in since TinkerCAD doesn't have the tiny one I ordered)

IMG_20200531_232835.JPG

Two White LEDs (White Dots) and two RGB LEDs (Green Dots)

If anyone has experience with Arduino / AdaFruit code I'd love a second set of eyes to look it over. I've never done anything like this in the past.
 

MrJamin

Member
Time for another update! (and to ask some questions)

I continue to work on priming, filling, and sanding. (so much sanding). My Arduino and the LEDs should be delivered today so I can finish the electronics in my helmet.
IMG_20200612_145506.JPG

IMG_20200616_210652.JPG


One problem that I've hit (and looking for guidance on) is cracking in some of the spots that I've touched up with spot putty (seams)
IMG_20200616_210646.JPG IMG_20200616_210642.JPG
TurboCharizard - I know you have a lot of experience with PLA prints.

I've also re-printed my shin pieces. Thanks to MoeSizzlac for the help!
IMG_20200617_122559.JPG

These have the back piece removed in the files so I didn't have to cut this piece out.

Finally, I have a few spare parts that I was wondering if anyone has a use for.
IMG_20200617_122625.JPG IMG_20200617_122614.JPG
The helmet is a direct print from Rainyfire on Thingiverse and the shins are from MoeSizzlac's files. (might need to cut the back off to get your foot in) Let me know if you are interested in these items.
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RMO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Time for another update! (and to ask some questions)

I continue to work on priming, filling, and sanding. (so much sanding). My Arduino and the LEDs should be delivered today so I can finish the electronics in my helmet.
View attachment 291814
View attachment 291815

One problem that I've hit (and looking for guidance on) is cracking in some of the spots that I've touched up with spot putty (seams)
View attachment 291816 View attachment 291817
TurboCharizard - I know you have a lot of experience with PLA prints.

I've also re-printed my shin pieces. Thanks to MoeSizzlac for the help!
View attachment 291818
These have the back piece removed in the files so I didn't have to cut this piece out.

Finally, I have a few spare parts that I was wondering if anyone has a use for.
View attachment 291819 View attachment 291820
The helmet is a direct print from Rainyfire on Thingiverse and the shins are from MoeSizzlac's files. (might need to cut the back off to get your foot in) Let me know if you are interested in these items.
If there's hairline fractures that spot is likely flexing. I'm fairly certain that both those spots are also joins of printed parts so you'll want to add a backer of some sort to strengthen that part and fix the crack on the front face. Either a fiberglass or resin slush backer is a cheap and strong bit of insurance against the part failing catastrophically.
 

booyaalex

New Member
It's looking so good! I just moved to a new apartment, but as soon as I get my 3D printer set back up I'll start my pieces up again. Will use your post as inspiration!
 

Hatake Cosplay

New Member
You can get a can of Bondo Fiberglass resin for about $12 . One can ,coating both inside and outside of my PLA prints, covered 3/4 of my whole costume. Its a polyester resin so working in a well ventilated area with an organic filter respirator is a must. If you want extra strength you can get fiberglass mat/fill that you apply with the resin...but the resin should be strong enough on its own.

Its a little pricier but you can also get Epoxy resins...measurements need to be precise for it to mix right but its a lot less toxic. West Systems and Smooth On both make excellent epoxy resins
 

Hatake Cosplay

New Member
Something to keep in mind. PLA has some flex...when you add the harder backing it loses any of that flex it had. Parts that were a bit tight to get on, might not slide on once they are hardened. So you might want to double check your tolerances.

I stupidly forgot to test mine and had to cut an opening in on a finished piece last week XD. Ill end up fixing it up and blending it, but its not something you want to do if you can avoid it.
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RMO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Any suggestions for products to use here? (never worked with either of those materials before)
Daisy is completely coated inside with SmoothCast 65D in 2-3 layers depending on the area.

For some of my newer pieces I've tried out fiberglass cloth and polyester resin. Pretty much anything available near you is good but I grabbed the best value per volume from Canadian Tire.

Another option is the patch repairs that I've done. Daisy encountered an incident with a plate starting to crack since hardened steel is tougher than plastic armour and climbing in tanks is fun. Basically I used a tough two part epoxy and sheet aluminum to create a mending plate that's a bit more resilient on the backside of a flat section of armour.
 
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