My Project MJOLNIR: Mk. VII armor + rubber undersuit

Brilliant thank you! I just ordered a quart and it’ll be here later this week. I really appreciate all the tips and suggestions
No problem, yeah couldn’t remember if it was a quart or a pint lol. Also if you do go for a gallon later on, you should get that in the “fast” variety. And then if you go for a smaller quart or a pint, I would do that one in the very fast version. Easier to do touchups if it cures faster
 
Amazing job on getting that under suit done. I love the look of a proper cast under suit. Gets pretty hot, but totally worth it.

For the floating knee, it might be worth looking at making an elastic cuff, and then anchoring it to the back side of the knee part just slightly above the center of the knee. If you do that, it'll leave the rest of the knee seal to move around, but keep the knee armor anchored in about the same spot. It'll be a bit annoying to put on until you get it figured out, but I think it would help with the knee wanting to fall down.
Thank you, it definitely gets hot, but not as hot as you would think. The main thing is just the weight, the rubber plus the armor can get extremely heavy after about two hours. Worth it when you’re wearing it lol!

That’s a good idea on the knee, right now the armor piece is anchored by four pieces of nylon webbing (top bottom and both sides) all fused to the rubber knee area. The trouble is with the rubber sleeve that runs between the thigh and shin armor, since it’s not super tight on my leg it has a lot of room to squish around, which makes the knee not super tight up against my leg. I honestly just struggled to keep it straight as it was fusing and curing, may need to just redo the process and get it tighter
 
hank you, it definitely gets hot, but not as hot as you would think.
Oh I know. I've got a bunch of cast under suit parts as well for my MK7.
The trouble is with the rubber sleeve that runs between the thigh and shin armor
Yea. I'm thinking of going on the back side of the rubber, and fusing an elastic loop that keeps the front tight against your knee. That way, you can keep everything as is, and just add that to keep the knee cap up.
 
No problem, yeah couldn’t remember if it was a quart or a pint lol. Also if you do go for a gallon later on, you should get that in the “fast” variety. And then if you go for a smaller quart or a pint, I would do that one in the very fast version. Easier to do touchups if it cures faster
I was wrong too lmfao, I got a pint. It was $30, so we’re thinking of the same thing lolol. But yeah I got the 10 fast so that it can dry quickly and not drip and it’s easy for touch ups, etc
 
armoryofalbus Do you know what your overall thickness is? At the seams and edges?
I opted not to do the Thivex at the suggestion of my Reynolds guy, doing slush casting instead, and my first one has pretty thin edges. I was planning on reinforcing with mesh anyway, but It would be interesting to see how robust and long-lasting you feel yours are.
How many pours did you do?
 
armoryofalbus Do you know what your overall thickness is? At the seams and edges?
I opted not to do the Thivex at the suggestion of my Reynolds guy, doing slush casting instead, and my first one has pretty thin edges. I was planning on reinforcing with mesh anyway, but It would be interesting to see how robust and long-lasting you feel yours are.
How many pours did you do?
I’d say on average across all the rubber parts they’re about 1/4 inch thick. Usually I just did one pour and then another small pour just for touchups. The rubber all feels very robust and only the torso has been reinforced with some cloth, if I did it again though I’d reinforce it all with mesh of some kind
 
I’d say on average across all the rubber parts they’re about 1/4 inch thick. Usually I just did one pour and then another small pour just for touchups. The rubber all feels very robust and only the torso has been reinforced with some cloth, if I did it again though I’d reinforce it all with mesh of some kind
Funny, because my edges are the thickest part. Some pooling on the edges of these molds was inevitable for me
 
We did not cap them. Using the “fast” dragon skin 10, it took about 10 minutes of slushing and then the models cured enough to where we could just set them down. After 30-60 more minutes they were totally cured.
Ah, gotcha. I opted for the 20 NV (low viscosity) to do the slush. It doesn't technically stretch as much, but it's a little firmer and a 600% tear point should still be sufficient. I poured mine today, and overall, I'm actually pretty happy with the thinner edges, though I also still need to do some touchups. I think i'm going to reinforce the seams and edges on the backside with the mesh and silpoxy, so I don't have to worry about any random tearouts.
 
Amazing job on getting that under suit done. I love the look of a proper cast under suit. Gets pretty hot, but totally worth it.

For the floating knee, it might be worth looking at making an elastic cuff, and then anchoring it to the back side of the knee part just slightly above the center of the knee. If you do that, it'll leave the rest of the knee seal to move around, but keep the knee armor anchored in about the same spot. It'll be a bit annoying to put on until you get it figured out, but I think it would help with the knee wanting to fall down.
def saving this advice for later as I am finishing my armour. I was just thinking about how to solve my knee problem. Thanks!
 

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