Now Molding!!! Spase WIP...

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It takes practice to use it, and yes it will "warp out of shape" if your not careful. The application is more difficult than bondo putty, but again this is my opinion, I prefer the after product. Once you get sufficient practice you will get a feel for how long it takes to cure which is really about 5 minutes from the time I put hardner into the glaze, but I mix it hot so I don't have to wait. The glaze wants to run thats why I do it in small sections, and the painters tape is to section off the places I do not want the glaze to run onto, or where I am trying to make a sort of retaining wall to build up thickness...

The tan spots are the glaze yes, if you look there are tan/slightly pink areas, and gray areas, I did this to contrast where the glaze is when i make the tutorial... thats a resin layer with primer on it, sanded the resin, then painted primer, then sanded primer, then applied glaze. The reason the glaze appears slightly different colors is the amount of hardener mixed changes the color. I mix only the amount I need, so I am "eyeballing" the amount of hardener, and I aim for a very light shade of pink to get the right glaze/hardener ratio. The glaze is a sort of mint green and the hardener is deep red. mix the two and wa la, pink...

I promise to make a tutorial for you guys as soon as I can get it into paint, which hopefully will be tonight...
 
WOW, thats amazing work!!

I'm still a little confused but I'm sure I'll figure it out sooner or later.

I think you should write a tutorial for this, this would help tons of people achieve this level of greatness in pepakura.
 
ouch..

could you achieve something close to this with bondo putty?

and what's the difference between metal putty and just putty? evercoat sells both.

is metal putty for a more metallic finish?
 
Putty would work too, it just works different.... application is different but end result should be pretty close... its all in how much time you spend getting the details right..
 
Spase said:
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Keep in mind this is only one small part of the helm, but with a weekend coming I can def. get the rest of it done.

wow that really is good
 
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I'm definately going to take my bondo back and get some of this. VERY good job. I hope you don't mind me copying the idea ^^
 
I would love to see people making armor... Halo YEAH!! My ideas and trial and error I hope help everyone...

New up date... Need to add some small detail like where the plates come to gether on the helm, then final sand, paint, face sheild interior, electronics... seems like I have come so far to not be very far at all... lol

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how much did that take?

i just saw the 'bondo's not so easy' thread and decided not to go with bondo.

is glaze easily sandable, and should i resin over it?
 
cys920622 said:
how much did that take?

i just saw the 'bondo's not so easy' thread and decided not to go with bondo.

is glaze easily sandable, and should i resin over it?
lol, I'm just saying do not underestimate it
Just ask questions who has experience over it and you will do fine
 
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I have learned that mud as sean and link call it has the same effect as this.


It is just a 1:1 mix of resin and bondo, it is runny and smooth, but dries HARD. Just remember to use both hardeners.
 
Moz said:
I have learned that mud as sean and link call it has the same effect as this.
It is just a 1:1 mix of resin and bondo, it is runny and smooth, but dries HARD. Just remember to use both hardeners.
doesn't sound too sandable...

by resin and bondo do you mean

bondo putty and resin?



also, spase, how many coats did it take you to achieve that, and how many hours?
 
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So far I have about 40 hours in my helm from folding to where I am at, and each section is really only one coat laid on thick, but if you look at the picks, I put it on in small sections so its easier to work with, rather than the coat the whole thing and sand later method....

Glaze is easy to sand... when it starts to cure you can touch it, it will be hard and warm, but a finger print can still be made... as soon as I feel it start to cool is when I start sanding because its hard, but sands really easily at this point, but even when its fully cured, a good 80 grit sand paper takes the stuff off fast so be careful...

I wouldn't resin over it, just use fine sand paper to finish sand, spray sandable primer on, sand with 320+ sandpaper and then paint your final coats of paint...

I will Make a Tutorial, don't worry, as soon as I am finished, sometime this week if I can find another LED, someone bought all of the ones I needed from my local radio shack... funny enough, the clerk said some guy told him it was for an MC helm, made of paper... lol... Then he implied I wasn't nerdy enough to play Halo...

I will post larger pictures sometime tonight... but I gotta get my H3 in also...
 
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