Paper problem even before resin fase

[zeijden]

Hi guys!

I'm quite familiar with building objects with Pepakura.
But I've got a problem when I want to start applying resin.
I use 160 gram paper to build the models.
But when I apply resin to the models they start to defrom.

How do you guy prevent the deforming from happening??

 

[Yogi Ben]

are you using paper or cardstock?

 

[ventrue]

Hi and welcome. In case you intentionally used black text: It's really hard to read

160 g is somewhere between cardstock and paper. I'd try to get 200 or 220 g/m² paper, in my experience that's best for the job. 250g/m² also works, but one sheet of these is already half a millimetre thick and that might lead to problems glueing. It also makes folding difficult. However, it does provide quite a bit of stability.
Either way, you may have to reinforce the model's inside with wooden sticks or something like that before resining it. Also, do small areas at a time, not the whole piece.

 

[Britannicus]

Yeah, agreed with Ven above here. I think you might be using coverstock. It's alright, but cardstock is twice the weight of that. Standard paper is 20-30lb. Cover = 60lb and cardstock = 110lb - It has the best strength.

 

[kupokitty]

Also, apply EXTREMELY LIGHT coats of resin when first starting out. Don't soak the paper, because if you do, it's going to warp. After the first coat dries, you can go ahead and throw more resin and then some fiberglass on there without fear of warping.

 

[Spartan247]

ya dont use paper use cardstock thats wats going to matter

 

[dung0beetle]

If paper is all you can get your hands on, you can use spray adhesive (one light even coat) to double up the thickness or you can coat the finished pep in a clear acrylic sealer (light even coat to start - if needed, apply more). Regular printer paper is good for the intricate details that are near impossible to assemble accurately with cardstock. I use 110 lb. paper for the majority of my peps, but for tiny details like the area inside the iron man jaw (see below), you can get away with using regular printer paper.

The larger the surface area, the thicker the material can be. For a low detail chest piece (large surface area that can deform easily if the material is too thin/weak), you can use chipboard (non-corrugated cardboard) and print those parts without flaps onto regular paper and transfer the pattern to the chipboard. You can simply hot glue the parts together, or make your own double sided flaps to glue on the inside of the build. Remember! Just because you can print the pattern out on paper doesn't mean you have to use it as your building material. You can use pvc sheet (sintra) like what for sale signs are made of (great for weapon peps), you can use sheet metal, plexiglass, or basically any material. Use whatever you are most comfortable working with. Also, you don't have to follow the pepakura model exactly. Many models have long thin strips for beveled areas, these can be omitted and replaced with a doubled-up "frame" for the inside of the bevel and a single layer backing to close it up.

Pepakura is a starting point to make a good looking prop. Your own imagination and personal technique is what can make the prop great! :cool

 

[zeijden]

First about the text: Sorry guys, don't know what happend there.
I tried to post it in white but somehow it just didn't do it.

Think for replying in such quicke fashion!
To be honest I live in The Negtherlands, and they don't sell thin pieces of cardboard.
Only the ones you would use for card board boxes. (some one should do something about it doh...)
Mind you, I've been going through DIY store and they don't even sell BONDO.

I'll have a look for the spray adhesive Dung0beetle mentioned.
Would it be a good idea to devide the part into seperate pieces, resin and fiberglass it.
Then arranging them together?

 

[fizog]

i tried the spray adhesive once.. didn't work out well for me tbo.. ( also only coat inside with it if u can) the alternateive of sealer/clear coat or indeed a qick throw of deep fill primer to the item light coats 1 at a time giveing time to dry inbetween can add alot of strength.. even with cardstock i still use that to add just that lil bit extra stability b4 i man handle the items with resin.. hope it works out for ya

 

[Sixxa]

First about the text: Sorry guys, don't know what happend there.
I tried to post it in white but somehow it just didn't do it.

Think for replying in such quicke fashion!
To be honest I live in The Negtherlands, and they don't sell thin pieces of cardboard.
Only the ones you would use for card board boxes. (some one should do something about it doh...)
Mind you, I've been going through DIY store and they don't even sell BONDO.

I'll have a look for the spray adhesive Dung0beetle mentioned.
Would it be a good idea to devide the part into seperate pieces, resin and fiberglass it.
Then arranging them together?

Do you mean the pep it self? If so, no. Glue the whole thing together first then resin small bits at a time. Try looking at an auto parts store for Bondo. If you cant find that, look for a fiberglass body filler.

 

[zeijden]

Do you mean the pep it self? If so, no. Glue the whole thing together first then resin small bits at a time. Try looking at an auto parts store for Bondo. If you cant find that, look for a fiberglass body filler.

Well, something like that.
But more like: have the back part, shoulder straps, front with lower straps.
And not glue them together but more assembling them, putting flexable strap material underneath it.

 

[Terrag Shugo]

be sure to use 110 lb card stock

 

[zeijden]

be sure to use 110 lb card stock

Yeah, but what if you can't get any where I'm from!?

 

[EdMcSmoke]

Yeah, but what if you can't get any where I'm from!?

sooo, youre from the netherlands right? its only 2h autobahn driving from me away, so i was there pretty often ... shopping.... and im sure i saw a staples there somewhere...
They even have a .nl website Staples .
Maybe the problem is that we are using the "metric system" and the united states not.
So you wont get 110lb card stock , but you will get 200 gramm paper. Its normal printerpaper, for your printer at home but thicker..... i dont understand your language very well but im almost sure that is what you looking for 200 gram papier


hope i could help


edit: heres a map with staples locations

 

[zeijden]

sooo, youre from the netherlands right? its only 2h autobahn driving from me away, so i was there pretty often ... shopping.... and im sure i saw a staples there somewhere...
They even have a .nl website Staples .
Maybe the problem is that we are using the "metric system" and the united states not.
So you wont get 110lb card stock , but you will get 200 gramm paper. Its normal printerpaper, for your printer at home but thicker..... i dont understand your language very well but im almost sure that is what you looking for 200 gram papier


hope i could help


edit: heres a map with staples locations

I'd could have a look at staples again, because I've been there for paper and I only got the 160 grams.
But we could go on and on about wether or not you can buy 200 gram paper.
But do you guys have more (because every post is helpfull) idea's or tips to prevent warping or deforming of the paper?

We already have the idea of supports.

 

[EdMcSmoke]

I'd could have a look at staples again, because I've been there for paper and I only got the 160 grams.
But we could go on and on about wether or not you can buy 200 gram paper.
But do you guys have more (because every post is helpfull) idea's or tips to prevent warping or deforming of the paper?

We already have the idea of supports.

i used 160 g paper too, for my 2 helmet and my rifle and had no problems at all.... but the 200g gives the pep extra strenght.
next thing is use really thin coats of polyester resin and apply them with a brush.
i let the first layer dry completely before applying another 2 or 3 and then coat the inside with a layer of resin. this adds enough strenght to the paper to fiberglass the inside without any warping of deforming.

next thing for your bondo problem is, go to a carsupply and ask for polyester body filler used for carbumper repairing for example.
i use "presto polyester feinspachtel" maybe you can get this too....


edit: almost forgot the paper part.... i use pattex compact glue. it holds the paper very well together.

 

[zeijden]

Yeah, using the right glue is a nother thing :S
I've just resined one part of the torso/chest part. Just t try put if I can resin dring the peping.
I know know, a few people said it won't work. But I wanna try if it work anyway.

Thank EdMcSmoke, I'll look/ask for the polyester body filler.

 

[EdMcSmoke]

the problem with the resin applying while peping is that the part shrinks when you cover it with resin i guess.
when you are afraid of warping just glue a piece of paper over the paperconnection. this will give it more strenght.
you can also do this to hold a shape like you want to and avoid bending around