Reach M6G Build

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by JeffZugale, Jan 7, 2016.

  1. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    A lot lighter than a steel version would be! :D So far it's quite light, total weight not much more than 1 lb (0.6 kg). The muzzle block is balsa, it's barely there.
     
  2. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    More bonus time this weekend! Our kids were sheer terrors the whole weekend, so I needed some shop therapy. Let's carve those dang side rails already!

    This is plywood, so it's not going to behave like a solid block. I decided to use my razor saw to cut a bunch of notches perpendicular along the part that's being removed; cutting them to marked lines on top and side means they go in with the bottom of the notch pretty much at the correct depth and angle. Then I use the saw to cut from one notch to the next, again using the marked lines to guide the cut. I made all the notches instead of making it all one cut because my cuts tend to wander. Having it in sections lets me re-orient the saw and get a more accurate overall cut. (If that damn combo saw hadn't been crap it would have made this faster.)

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    Now I've got a rough cut, time to clean it up. Here's a trick: I have this angle sanding block I made from a chunk o' 2x4, one side at 30 degrees, the other at 45. The vise jaws are flat across the top, so if I clamp the piece in with lines parallel to it, I can flip over the block and sand exactly at the marked angle using the vise top as leveling guide. Works very well, more control than doing it on the belt/disc sander. I used it for both the large carve-out (30 deg) and the 45 deg beveled edges. As you can see, a couple of my cuts went too deep, so once again I'm saved by Plastic Wood.

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    A bit of shaping on the disc sander, and what the hey, let's glue it together! A bit of Titebond, wipe off the squeezeout and flip her over to dry vertically on a flat surface.

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    There it will rest until Thursday night. With a little more time left, I went back to the top block, whose repair plug was well-dried and solid. I very very carefully re-measured center (you can see how far off the 1/2" hole went) and equally carefully used a very sharp needle point and then a center punch to perfectly mark the drill point.

    2016-03-06 21.58.10.jpg

    I carefully made sure the piece was vertical, loaded up a 3/16" bit, and centered my power drill right on the bubble. Gently I started drillling, and...

    2016-03-06 22.02.10.jpg

    **SIIIGGGHHHH**... yeah, turns out that 3/16 drill bit is pretty much dull. I should have used the 1/8". Well, bleh. I'm not defeated yet, I can still make it work. Next time I need to be really precise I'll take the time to pull out the drill press!!!

    Thursday: rout out the front of the top block, start on the back piece for it, figure out how to flatten the slide base, and maybe even start cutting the handgrips.
     
  3. seeker01

    seeker01 New Member

    that is a labor of love my friend...
    if you can proceduralize your build I know a bunch of kids in our street (including mine) would love to have dads (that would be me) make them a few of these ;-)
    looking really nice
     
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  4. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    Thanks seeker! Unfortunately I didn't work last night, I was too wiped out from my day job. Hope to get a little time in this weekend.
     
  5. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    FINALLY I get back into the shop for a bit! Sorry I've been away, last couple weeks have been super-busy. OK here's the work:

    First, routed out the front of the overbarrel. Took my time, still made mistakes. The red square is the area where the round part *should* sit properly; you can see how far off center the hole and pin are. So then I super-carefully measured where that off-center pin would go into the cylinder, super-carefully marked it up... and of course it messed up anyway. So I hacked out the drill hole until it sat where it's supposed to and just glued and clamped it. Sometimes it doesn't matter how careful one is, and one must just forge on ahead in crude but effective ways.

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    Y'know what? I've been away from this for so long, I've gotten impatient. Let's just GLUE THE DANG THING TOGETHER.

    2016-03-31 23.31.40.jpg

    Hope it works out... I'm gonna be learning a lot about Bondo, for sure. Next session, gluing on the overbarrel and getting started on some grips!
     
  6. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    OOoooookay, hey sorry it's been a while! I have been doing some work, but haven't been able to make time to post. Here we go...

    We last left our hero with clamps on, gluing the barrel block to the frame. That worked out fine! I then glued on the top of the overbarrel, but failed to take pictures of that. The first shot below is what that looked like. Not much time to work, so I quickly measured and marked 1/8" plywood for the rear sides and top of the overbarrel, then cut and glued them on using blue tape to hold them.

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    Allowed that to dry, then glued some MDF chunks to form the transitional corners. Once they were on solidly, I sanded them down to shape.

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    Here's side views, with the piece sitting on my iPad Pro and with my square so you can get a sense of scale. This is a very large pistol even scaled down to .40 cal!

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    That was last week. This week, I fortunately happened to review the reference shots and realized there's a large rout out of the bottom of the underbarrel piece, so I got that sorted. You can see in the shot it's all carved out and I Plastic-Wood-ed some mistakes. Then I did a test fit, and realized that when I glued on the top of the overbarrel I'd overtightened the clamps and compressed the muzzle block a bit, which made the underbarrel not touch the frame. I cut a basswood shim and glued that into the slot - I don't want to glue the underbarrel to the balsa muzzle block at all, only to the frame for a solid bond. Also on test fit there was a gap at the back of the underbarrel where it meets the handguard, so I glued on a small block of scrap pine to help fill that out. I left these pieces to dry until next session.

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    FINALLY I can start on the grips! This is as far as I got, just marking out the left side on a piece of 1/4" MDF. I'll super-glue an identical piece under that and then I'll cut both out at the same time with my coping saw.

    2016-04-21 23.18.08.jpg

    Mostly downhill from here, I think. I hope. :)
     
  7. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives

    Wow, despite the lag in update, the workmanship......CRAFTSMANSHIP....is fantastic!!! You have such talent......I hate you........teach me please.......
     
  8. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    Eh, don't let the images fool you, it's sloppier than it shows. There's going to be a LOT of filling, scraping and sanding.

    Best advice I can give is get good reference (easy in this case), draw out your plans as carefully as you can, and TAKE YOUR TIME.

    Also, don't take it too seriously! It's just a space gun. :)
     
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  9. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives

    awww darn it......You just burst my bubble.......now I bet you're gona tell me the Easter Bunny isn't real!!!!
     
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  10. RetiredClone

    RetiredClone New Member

    Looks great, can't wait to see it finished! Thanks for sharing all the progress pics.
     
  11. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    Thanks again all - last week got busy with family stuff, wasn't able to make progress. I hope to be back in the shop this Thursday for more.

    Of course, at work I started building an M6C SOCOM, so... yeah, I might have a problem. :)
     
  12. Huntress217

    Huntress217

    Yay! I love wood props! It really is one of my favorite fabrication methods. Looking great so far! ^^
     
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  13. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    Thanks Huntress! Sadly, no progress last night because I got behind on other stuff this week because my kids don't like to sleep. I hope to get back in the shop on Sunday for a while.
     
  14. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    Hooray! back in the shop for regular Thursday night therapy!

    Coping saw to cut out the left side grip I traced last time, then cleaned up on disc sander and with rasp, file, sanding block. First test fit: meh. Set up the Dremel table with a sanding drum for the fine shaping. Much better fit!

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    Traced the left grip onto another bit of MDF, coping sawed out, fits very nicely. Got to use the round-off router bit for the first time, look at those nice clean edges.

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    A bit of double-stick tape makes for a test-assembly. I think it's looking snazzy!

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    Next time: the bottom block of the magazine, maybe some drilling for all the little screw holes. I want to checker the grips, but that should wait until after it's properly shaped for my hand. It's too flat and thick to hold comfortably.
     
  15. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    I've learned that there are actually dedicated special tools made for grip-checkering! Who knew?

    I dunno as I'll be buying them, though. I might see if a friend with a laser or home CNC can help.
     
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  16. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    Whoof, last couple weeks have been busy and tiring. I got into the shop last night but was just plain not feeling it. Instead of trying to do any serious work, I just measured out a bunch of the smaller pieces and did some sanding here and there.

    2016-05-26 22.31.37.jpg

    I now have the magazine bottom, rear under side bits and the main rear sight block marked and ready to cut, drill and rout. I also started on the little piece that goes on top of the slide where the overbarrel meets it (not shown). I think I may try to prime the underbarrel over the holiday weekend to really see where it needs to be cleaned up and what the Filler Primer will take care of. There are a number of tight places that don't meet my Standard Of Perfectionism, but that the primer might just deal with. :)

    Have a nice long weekend everyone...
     
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  17. moneyman12q

    moneyman12q New Member

    this is an incredible project. highly detailed small props are always impressive.
     
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  18. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    Hey all, just wanted to let you know I'm still alive... have been derailed last couple of weeks by many things. I'll be back on it soon, no worries.
     
  19. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    Woo, finally got a little shop time! Only an hour, but I got a lot of little things done.

    2016-06-26 23.29.54.jpg

    So, all the major bits are cut out now, and also many of the minor ones. I got the mag base to shape, a couple of rear side pieces that go behind the grips, the sight block pieces. Routing and shaping on the mag base and sight block comes next. Then I have to review the whole thing for the small details because it's been so long I've forgotten all the small stuff. Also, I have to decide how I'm going to carve the grip. Since I'm calling this my "personal" sidearm, I think I'll be carving it custom for my hand shape.

    Thanks for sticking with me! :)
     
  20. Cyan Junkie

    Cyan Junkie Jr Member

    Looking great so far! You're almost there!
     
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  21. KaulinD

    KaulinD New Member

    This is the one I've been working on 6f9c3af645cce8019930a4b223e2018f.jpg


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  22. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives

    Ssswwweeeeeetttttt!!!!!!!!!!
     
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  23. JeffZugale

    JeffZugale New Member

    Looking good Kaulin! Did you pick up Bill Doran's (@chinbeard) Foamsmithing books? :)
     
  24. KaulinD

    KaulinD New Member

    Actually no, one of my friends works at a 3D modeling/molding place nearby and they made a few molds of them so he grabbed two and we have been making them. I actually painted the first one today. 9e8014e79d046fb9039916a8f7d1b6d6.jpg

    That actually is the exact same gun


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  25. KaulinD

    KaulinD New Member

    fc4a1fa99ca7906628a0cd8fe95ef12d.jpg

    Mwahahaha, I have 4 more to sand and paint. They actually aren't foam, they are Tc-890 plastic that we poured into a mold. But I put the finished one up against the not so finished ones lol. But I would definitely love to see how yours is coming, it looks like I might need to step up my game.


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