Ok, well at first I wanted to make my armor from vacuforming but I'm hearing some great stuff about casting the pieces in resin. now I was looking up some types of urethane resin but I don't know what kind I should get, any tips? Thanks
I'm very appreciative of this. It seems easier to slush around a few layers of resin than having to build and entire machine to melt down plastic and suck it into shape lol. Hey Pyro how durable is this stuff? and is in a 1:1 ratio mix? I think it is, but it never hurts to ask.
No it won't. It doesn't melt in the sun, you're actual able to post cure it at 150 degrees. Occasionally I will use a heat gun set on high and bucket of water to bend a thin piece but its not easy, and the thick ones are almost impossible. Yes it is a 1:1 ratio. As for durability it depends on how thick you slush it. For instance I can stand on my chest piece, which would break vaccuform ABS or fiberglass but I wouldn't "bounce" on it. It's very easy to paint, I've seen car body kits made out of it. Many many times stormtroopers would come up asking what my suit was made out of, and I'd tell them to punch me in the chest as hard as they can, a situation that would happen once an hour or so while I was wearing it at a convention, they always did it and always regretted it, they never left a mark on it. I've even played paintball in mine. Also a lot of things depend on the actual shape of the piece we've thrown some pieces across our shop and had no damage, while other shapes you wouldn't want to drop off more than a ladder or so. To work with a cured piece you'll want to use power tools, a rotary sander, a dremel, and a drill. I would also recommend smooth-ons mold material we use their http://www.smooth-on.com/PDF/Rebound%2025%20-%20TB.pdf Rebound 25 it's a platinum cure mold and has good a nice rigidity to keep shape, in addition to the mothermold.
30-35 pounds or so it's not so bad. Vaccuform always felt to flimsy to me, but to each their own. We've considered vaccuforming some parts of other costumes where size was a factor though, I wouldn't say that I'd never use vaccuforming, I just haven't run into a situation where I'd prefer it yet.
Technically any sort of containment field would work, I've used clay, cardboard, foil, light plastic, my own hands etc.. One thing that might make it easier would be to clearcoat paint your plaster mold first giving you a slicker surface (there would be slight detail loss there), and also use a releasing agent. Also mold/piece shape is a factor since the resin and mold would be rigid, you would need to avoid locking the piece into the mold if you wish to reuse the plaster mold.
Urethane resin is sensitive to moisture so your plaster or stone mold should be as dry as possible
then use a clear coat spray, put it on in light coats let it dry then it should be waxed as the final release.
I have been using smooth-on resin for several years and most of them are not ideal for slush casting
because they kick to fast depending on how much you have mixed, There are several resins in the smooth-on line that have longer working times. And they start out thin water like to creamy but when they start to set up they turn into a rubbery mass that will not spread it self evenly in the mold and as it sets then you have
one area that is thicker than the rest of the item you were slush casting.
I have found one resin that is great for slush casting and it is also made for coating Styrofoam
It's like latex paint it has a seven minute cure time
depending on room temperature and volume mixed
and it clings to silicone mold walls very well not like the water thin resins
Unlike some of the thinner water like resin that starts out thin and once they kick they turn into a slime ball
and you end up with one big thick spot in your slush cast pice
you can get that resin here. its called ureShell http://www.demandhotwire.com/coatings02.html
I do prefer to use the above resin with fiberglass cloth to reinforce it
Just wanted to add my two cents