Resin?
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Redsleighdown
Well-Known Member
link4044 said:
he means M12 LRV hits
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MiscreantPyro
New Member
Once it's flashed it's fine around mositure though. The idea with the watery resins is to slush it the whole time including when it's all honey like, during which stage it coats the silicon just fine, also don't let it linger in one area, that lets it heat itself up unevenly, and having a good sense of timing as to when you should stop rolling and let it settle into an edge or something where its structurally good to be a bit thicker. instead of letting it create a "slimeball"
I was reffering to urethane body kits, though I have seen resin cast used on plenty of custom car mods, and I'm sure you can stand on fiberglass without it breaking too, since I've done it often enough, but then I wasn't talking about a piece of it lying flat on the floor, I was referring to it's strength if it were used in the same shape as my halo chest piece lying on the ground face up.
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Redsleighdown
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well i accidentally stepped on my NAS gut plate a while back and I had to mend the big crack I put in it by doing so. :$ops:
Spartan648
Member
I have tried several of the smooth-on and poly-tech resins with a low viscosity and find that since they
are pretty much water thin, they do not leave thick enough of a coat of resin behind on the walls of the mold
and you pretty much have to rotate the mold until the resin is thick enough to actually coat the mold.
and if your resin has a 7 min pot life and your work area is cool it takes to long to do just one mold
and if I am running three or four molds of different parts, I want to be able to put in one coat and move on to the next mold and so by the time I have coated the last mold the first mold is at that almost cured sticky
rubber stage and is ready for the next coat. After I have at least three coats of resin in the mold when I apply the fourth coat that is when I add fiberglass matt cloth, this will make your piece stronger and much lighter. Many of you may already know this but I want to share these tips with are new members that
want to try their hand at molding and casting.
Tips for doing a brush-up mold
When you do a brush up mold I suggest adding color to every other coat of silicone rubber
or urethane rubber, this way you will avoid any thin spots in the mold.
example one of the smooth-on silicones is pink in color when mixed so this would be your first coat
then on the second coat I would add a few drops of blue silicone pigment which would give
the second coat a purple color, so if you can see the pink thru the purple then thats where you would have a thin spot.
I use this same technique with slush casting, most resins are white to off white or tan in color
after you slush in the first layer and it has gotten to that sticky rubbery stage add some color
to the next coat and then slush in the different color this will help avoid any missed or thin spots
and to make my silicone rubber molds last a bit longer, I spray primer into the mold first.
Do this in thin coats to avoid any runs or puddles of the primer but be careful not to flex the mold in any way
after applying the primer because it will crack and peel out.
The primer provides a barrier coat between the urethane resin and the silicone rubber because over time
the resin will chemically attack the silicone and make it brittle which will cause damage to your mold
When the resin cures it will be chemically bonded to the primer, and with primer already on your part
that is one less step before you paint.
Well I once again rambled on far to long, just wanted to share what I have learned
or taught my self over the years. I do hope my ramblings make sense.
Please question if they do not.
Spartan 648
are pretty much water thin, they do not leave thick enough of a coat of resin behind on the walls of the mold
and you pretty much have to rotate the mold until the resin is thick enough to actually coat the mold.
and if your resin has a 7 min pot life and your work area is cool it takes to long to do just one mold
and if I am running three or four molds of different parts, I want to be able to put in one coat and move on to the next mold and so by the time I have coated the last mold the first mold is at that almost cured sticky
rubber stage and is ready for the next coat. After I have at least three coats of resin in the mold when I apply the fourth coat that is when I add fiberglass matt cloth, this will make your piece stronger and much lighter. Many of you may already know this but I want to share these tips with are new members that
want to try their hand at molding and casting.
Tips for doing a brush-up mold
When you do a brush up mold I suggest adding color to every other coat of silicone rubber
or urethane rubber, this way you will avoid any thin spots in the mold.
example one of the smooth-on silicones is pink in color when mixed so this would be your first coat
then on the second coat I would add a few drops of blue silicone pigment which would give
the second coat a purple color, so if you can see the pink thru the purple then thats where you would have a thin spot.
I use this same technique with slush casting, most resins are white to off white or tan in color
after you slush in the first layer and it has gotten to that sticky rubbery stage add some color
to the next coat and then slush in the different color this will help avoid any missed or thin spots
and to make my silicone rubber molds last a bit longer, I spray primer into the mold first.
Do this in thin coats to avoid any runs or puddles of the primer but be careful not to flex the mold in any way
after applying the primer because it will crack and peel out.
The primer provides a barrier coat between the urethane resin and the silicone rubber because over time
the resin will chemically attack the silicone and make it brittle which will cause damage to your mold
When the resin cures it will be chemically bonded to the primer, and with primer already on your part
that is one less step before you paint.
Well I once again rambled on far to long, just wanted to share what I have learned
or taught my self over the years. I do hope my ramblings make sense.
Please question if they do not.
Spartan 648
MiscreantPyro
New Member
I generally work 3-4 molds at a time also. Our original armor had around 23 molds, later on we combined several into single pieces for mass production for Microsoft. One thing to make the watery stage shorter is to let it heat itself up in the mixing cup before pouring into the cold mold, but you have to remember to stir though so you don't get uneven heating. Most of my pieces I can do in 5 mixes or less. Since I use the bright orange Rebound 25 for most of my molds, I gauge the resins thickness by its opacity with the color showing through. So if you use a bright mold material or a bright pigment in your first layer of mold gauging resin thickness is easy without using resin dyes.
Another fun thing you guys could put into your resin is Kevlar cloth, no guarantees though, other than bragging rights!
Another fun thing you guys could put into your resin is Kevlar cloth, no guarantees though, other than bragging rights!
FAII3N ANG3I
Well-Known Member
nice, your suites look really good
Deadguy
Well-Known Member
Good info in this thread, but for the record, ABS is what they make football shoulderpads, soccer shin guards, etc out of. If you can step on it and break it, you're either going too thin with the ABS, or you're waaay overweight 
It's not urethane, although that would certainly be within reach of those manufacturers to use instead.
It flexes, but actually breaking it though pressure is reserved for the more brittle non-flex plastics, though it's possible to overstretch thin ABS and run into problems if you step on it or stomp on it.
I've booted one of our helmets as hard as I could a few weeks ago just to see what would happen. Kicked right into the ABS visor, which is the weakest part, and nothing happened. Of course on an assembly like that, you'd probably tear out the rivets if you stood on it and essentially stomped on it.
Course if this is an armor costume to be worn, you shouldn't be getting into those kinds of situations with it anyways.
Maybe I'm wrong here, but I was under the impression that urethane was the expensive way to go.
It's not urethane, although that would certainly be within reach of those manufacturers to use instead.It flexes, but actually breaking it though pressure is reserved for the more brittle non-flex plastics, though it's possible to overstretch thin ABS and run into problems if you step on it or stomp on it.
I've booted one of our helmets as hard as I could a few weeks ago just to see what would happen. Kicked right into the ABS visor, which is the weakest part, and nothing happened. Of course on an assembly like that, you'd probably tear out the rivets if you stood on it and essentially stomped on it.
Course if this is an armor costume to be worn, you shouldn't be getting into those kinds of situations with it anyways.
Maybe I'm wrong here, but I was under the impression that urethane was the expensive way to go.
MiscreantPyro
New Member
With vaccuforming though they'd need to build or borrow a table, or maybe buy one, but that's expensive.
http://www.tk560.com/vactable4.html
http://www.tk560.com/vactable4.html
Spartan648
Member
link4044 said:
Last year I won a vaccum table on ebay for a real cheap price
the expensive part was the freight shipping :eek
Any how this table was from a printing company that went out of business and all of its presses and other equipment were being sold off
the table was around three feet by four feet all you needed was a vaccum pump and you were in business. Now I know you are asking
well what have you made, the answer is nothing there was not enough room in my basement or garage for the vac table let alone the
heating element, I sold it off to a guy on another board
I was suprised whenI had won that auction, I thought for sure that
somebody would take it away form me.
Just some usless information I wanted to share
Spartan 648
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Spartan648
Member
I was just checking out the Smooth-On web site under whats new and I found this a new casting resin made for rotational casting.
I will have to give it a try since I have roto cast or slush cast by hand
and I do not like the snap cure from smooth cast 300
I still have to try my spray casting gun for making armor
Spartan 648
New Smooth-Cast™ ROTO™
Perfect For Rotational Casting
Smooth-Cast ROTO is a semi-rigid plastic (Shore 65D) that offers good physical properties at a low cost . ROTO is priced the same as Smooth-Cast 300 casting resin and offers the same working time, cure time and appearance (bright white) when cured.
The primary performance differences between
Smooth-Cast 300 and Smooth-Cast ROTO:
A. Unlike Smooth-Cast 300, Smooth-Cast ROTO does not “snap-cure”. The cure “profile” for ROTO is gradual, which translates into a more uniform distribution of the liquid plastic in the mold cavity as it is being rotated. There is also less trail and error when trying to estimate the amount of material to use to attain a uniform wall thickness and adjust the speeds of your X and Y-axis arms on your rotational casting machine.
B. Smooth-Cast ROTO cures to a semi-rigid 65D vs. a rigid 70D for Smooth-Cast 300. Cured hollow Smooth-Casttm ROTO castings are more impact resistant and less susceptible to breaking if dropped.
C. You can hand rotationally cast Smooth-Cast ROTO. If you have ever tried to rotationally cast Smooth-Cast 300 by hand, you know that it is very difficult unless you first add a filler.
I will have to give it a try since I have roto cast or slush cast by hand
and I do not like the snap cure from smooth cast 300
I still have to try my spray casting gun for making armor
Spartan 648
New Smooth-Cast™ ROTO™
Perfect For Rotational Casting
Smooth-Cast ROTO is a semi-rigid plastic (Shore 65D) that offers good physical properties at a low cost . ROTO is priced the same as Smooth-Cast 300 casting resin and offers the same working time, cure time and appearance (bright white) when cured.
The primary performance differences between
Smooth-Cast 300 and Smooth-Cast ROTO:
A. Unlike Smooth-Cast 300, Smooth-Cast ROTO does not “snap-cure”. The cure “profile” for ROTO is gradual, which translates into a more uniform distribution of the liquid plastic in the mold cavity as it is being rotated. There is also less trail and error when trying to estimate the amount of material to use to attain a uniform wall thickness and adjust the speeds of your X and Y-axis arms on your rotational casting machine.
B. Smooth-Cast ROTO cures to a semi-rigid 65D vs. a rigid 70D for Smooth-Cast 300. Cured hollow Smooth-Casttm ROTO castings are more impact resistant and less susceptible to breaking if dropped.
C. You can hand rotationally cast Smooth-Cast ROTO. If you have ever tried to rotationally cast Smooth-Cast 300 by hand, you know that it is very difficult unless you first add a filler.
Spartan648
Member
link4044 said:
I noticed that to, when I made the support shell for the
SST Death from Above plaque mold. I was going to try using the
spray plastic as the beauty coat then add a layer of fiberglass matt
cloth to it. But with the new rotocast resin I may just use the spray gun for making my molds.
Spartan 648
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