Simple detailing question

[cybris]

Hi, I am currently working on a halo 3 odst helmet, and I had one simple question. So in corners and squared off areas, what tool should I use to achieve 90 degree angles and things like that, because with a dremel, the bit is round of course so you cant do corners. I have sharper, smaller bits that I could probably do it with, but I was wondering if there was an easier way. For example theres these spots on the helmet:

 

[Gokussj5okazu]

I have always used a 1/8" diamond pointed bit that I got from Walmart. This one here. Works very well for making the inner corners nice and sharp, then I used sandpaper folded very sharply to smooth it out.

 

[cybris]

Thanks guess that's what I'll do.

 

[Zaff]

A sanding block/sponge can also work. For tighter spots that the store-bought blocks won't fit in, you can just fold/glue a piece of sand paper to a piece of scrap wood. A flat file could also do the job. All in all not as quick as a rotary bit, but it will do the job and without the risk of doing damage the way a bit can should it slip off the odd contours you are trying to smooth out.

 

[swampbilly]

A sanding block/sponge can also work. For tighter spots that the store-bought blocks won't fit in, you can just fold/glue a piece of sand paper to a piece of scrap wood. A flat file could also do the job. All in all not as quick as a rotary bit, but it will do the job and without the risk of doing damage the way a bit can should it slip off the odd contours you are trying to smooth out.

What he said ^^ in the body shop I work for and on my helmet we use a paint stick with adhesive sandpaper stuck to it. My favorite detailing tool is a chopstick. Its square at one end and rounded at the other. Perfect for sanding in tight spots and hard to reach angles and shapes.

 

[Zaff]

The best part is if you use a sanding sponge it's generally easier to wet sand (slightly smoother finish and less chance of scratching/gouging than with dry sanding) and sanding sponges can be cleaned if they start to get gummed up and reused with little to no problem, while sandpaper, from my experience, tends to gum up faster and especially with the cheaper brands the grit has been known to come right off the paper, which not only leaves a spot on the paper that has no abrasive left, what has come loose can get dragged around by the paper and that will really do a number on your work piece.

 

[EVAkura]

I like what the others said, but I thought I would add my two cents as well I use files almost exclusively. The one pictured solo below is my primary file I use, especially for the parts you are referring to, and for ultra straight and consistent detail lines. The rest of the files in the pack are kind of bonus files IMO and get used rarely, but when they are used, it seems that no other tool compares. They do tend to get a bit gummed up, but I keep a glass of acetone and a rag next to my work. The gummed up bondo and resin literally falls off instantly, and all it takes is a quick dip and wipe with the rag, and I am back to filing.

These are Harbor Freight's cheapest file set (I believe) and were not on sale when I got them. I think I paid $10-12 for the set.





Also, I try to eliminate most of the filing by using foamies or balsa as a jig. Once I tried that, I don't think I will do it any other way as it generally leaves you with crisp detail lines and perfect 90 degree angles.

 

[cybris]

Thanks for the great responses guys! Ill have to buy some tomorrow!

 

[WandererTJ]

I enjoyed the tips everyone provided as well
Nice to hear the different approaches to something like this.