Props Spartan Laser Metal & Fiberglass Airsoft Prop (Fully Functioning Electronic Replica)


Redshirt

Well-Known Member
Member DIN
S980
MOLD BLANKS!

I'm close to pulling my final molds with the completion of the fully detailed blanks. These are semi-solid and fairly brittle due to being made of Pepakura, Rondo, and a little Great Stuff Foam (bad idea). I will cut these in half and use them to make fiberglass female mold to lay up the final fiberglass parts that will be light enough and strong enough to handle the structural requirements and abuse in the field that airsoft guns endure.


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What you see represents a lot of work with scratch filling primer and Bondo to get all the edges straight and surfaces smooth.

Very tempting to paint them green . . . .

Redshirt
 

Redshirt

Well-Known Member
Member DIN
S980
OK, opinion poll time:

When I paint this thing, should I finish it factory new and let it wear in (weather) as I use it on the airsoft field. Airsoft guns get quite a bit of wear and tear from rubbing on grass, trees, your uniform and any other equipment you are wearing. Or, should I weather it to match the in-game renders from the start?

One other consideration is the finish system I'm going to use. NIC Industries produces a finish for real-world firearms that is amazing. It's called Cera-kote. You can look it up at: www.cerakoteguncoatings.com. Rather than messy powder coat, this ceramic finish airbrushes on as a liquid, then cures in the oven at 300 degrees F. You can use it on plastics too and cure it at 180 degrees for a longer period. This means that externally, metal and plastic are indistinguishable. I will certainly use it on the aluminum lower receiver, but am also considering putting it on the fiberglass upper. This finish is amazingly tough. One gun I had finished with it had a run-in with a barb-wire fence and came away unscratched! The down side, nothing sticks to it so weathering will be difficult. I highly recommend this stuff to other prop-builders to get a realistic (and nearly indestructible) firearm finish. Its about $35 for enough to do a couple of big guns or several magnums. Here's a mini Tut:

10SprayedwithCeraKotejustbeforecuringongrille.jpg


Sprayed on to immaculately clean metal and thrown on the barbie, temped to around 250 degrees and left for 2 hours (it can also go up to 300 for a 45 min cure)



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Cured parts, metal and plastic. Can you tell which are the plastic parts? That's the great thing about this stuff.


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Here's the finished product. Hard to tell it's an airsoft gun and not the real deal. This color is called Stone Gray and matches the pickled finish this gun should have. I tried to weather it, but almost everything rubs off. I had to rub it with used motor oil to brown it a little. Their Graphite Black and Armor black are the more usual colors for Battle Rifles, etc.

So anyway, back to the original question, new or weathered? Thoughts?

Redshirt
 

Redshirt

Well-Known Member
Member DIN
S980
Getting the blanks ready to pull the molds:

Here I'm sawing all of the beautiful work in half to lay out and make fiberglass molds. The plan is to make detailed, yet fairly flexible molds using a special weave of cloth, rather than matt to conform to the details.

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Now that everything is split you can see why the foam was a bad idea. It created perpetual soft spots behind the thinnest Rondo. I won't make the mistake again, though I'm sure I'm not done paying for it the first time.

Next, I'll paint these pieces as glossy as I can and rub them down with 5 coats of mold release wax before laying them up with the fiberglass.

Until next time . . . .

Redshirt
 

coldevil123

Jr Member
Seeing it split is pretty cool -- a nice view that you don't normally see. It is also so fantastically smooth, I just want to rub my face on it. That's normal, right? Your work is so great, I hope you don't make any silly errors. I want to see this done very well. You're on the right track so far, so good luck!
 

Toacrabman

Well-Known Member
When you get that mould done, I might consider buying a cast just to make a nice 40mm moscart shell launcher.

I just wonder if people would let me run around on their field with something so overpowered, and so ...... fictional.....?
 

Redshirt

Well-Known Member
Member DIN
S980
Seeing it split is pretty cool -- a nice view that you don't normally see. It is also so fantastically smooth, I just want to rub my face on it. That's normal, right? Your work is so great, I hope you don't make any silly errors. I want to see this done very well. You're on the right track so far, so good luck!

Um, thanks! That made me laugh. I'm flattered, yet considering getting a restraining order . . . .
So far I've resisted the urge to cuddle with it. You are right on about silly errors--many great projects have been undercut by shortcuts at the end. I'm in it until its right.

Redshirt
 

lordzoabar

Active Member
Oh my god... I'ts so beautiful! lol

Can't WAIT to see this beast finished! The Splaser is my all time favorite weapon EVER. Of all time.
 
Liking how this build is turning out! Though i am sorry that the foam is giving you a hard time. :(
I am curently starting a similar project where im making a Halo 2 turrent that operate's using compressed air. If you cant make the electronics work then id suggest repurposing it for compressed air. Depending on the setup you could probably put the canister inside the shell.
Like a paintball can or a custom one made from PVC.
 
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