Steampunk combat suit

[lordtosco]

(May 16)

Continuing the process ...


























This piece saved all the crops!





Ok, isso ai eu não aconselho fazer Mas eu não tinha opção ja que o centro de gravidade do movimento axial da porcaria do eixo do ombro não tava dando certo em outro lugar ficou ai mesmo .



I'm a little slow on this, I hope to make it faster

 

[lordtosco]

(may, 26)

Continuing the infamous affairs weekend ...


I had to stop the development of the exoskeleton arm because without the vest chest for support of parts and calibration of pneumatic arms and mechanical splices the whole thing develops.


So party to allocation of new scrap to make this vest, I started with two models of flywheels:


Greater (Flywheel Motor Toyota Motor 3l)






And a minor (Flywheel Motor Fox)






The two have an interesting pro result I want, but the sizes are different:


The larger flywheel (Toyota) is 30 cm diameter end






The smaller wheel (the fox) is approximately 20cm





The two pieces are very heavy due to the clutch plate, removed the plates of the two pieces because they do not help anything and will not appear aesthetically.








This piece removed weighs almost 3 pounds in the largest and the smallest 2.


After that I did a comparison of body sizes:


The smallest:









The biggest:








I decided to use the most. Now I will start assembling the plates and other parts that will make the vest. With the vest already in a position to support the stems of the exoskeleton arm I will take up your faction.

 

[lordtosco]

(June, 11)

I had some ideas and decided to work on it some more in the arm (though need to finish the vest).

With the help of improvised anvil I did I cast cold this bar







Cutting the perforated portion and making small folds I have support to pass the securing screw arrested in support of the biceps













To support the forearm used a piece of door hinge






















Continuing...

 

[lordtosco]

Here I worked on fixing the rod shoulder. The nut and rod tip were drilled to not release the movement.
















I added one more rod to strengthen the joint and achieve desired aesthetic (although slightly increase the weight).










Thanks for see my post

 

[lordtosco]

A little more courage and a few more pieces that appeared helped me take a bit of continuity


Cutting and sticking a plate could unite the two rods in proper alignment.









At this point I put the plate to hold the two rods














Holding the tip of the rod inside the cover of the alternator




















This piece is a support lever gear. It will be used to provide support between the set and the shoulder joint

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[Necrogenesis]

*nods* this thread is ace, always look forward to your updates <golf clap>

 

[Vandoore]

That is pretty cool, though it must be heavy no?

 

[theHOUND913]

straight epicness. love the creativity

 

[Dustycloudzzz]

Lookin pretty awesome. <Thumbs up>

 

[lordtosco]

*nods* this thread is ace, always look forward to your updates <golf clap>

I hope I can have updates at least once a week.

That is pretty cool, though it must be heavy no?

It's a little heavy (about 4 pounds so far), but be ready weight had been supported in the vest chest.

straight epicness. love the creativity

The most difficult is to make the pieces are visually combined. And of course that just increasing the overall weight, because the most interesting parts are steel and not aluminum. Also scrap aluminum in my country is rare, because there are many people who collect aluminum for recycling.

Lookin pretty awesome. <Thumbs up>

I hope to keep pace and creativity.


Grateful to all the comments and compliments. I will try to keep some updates as least weekly.

 

[lordtosco]

Hi guys !


Well, it's not a update realy, but with this I believe I can work better

Learning to use the welding machine. I hope to master this **** right, s mask me blind until the electrode ignite and melt on the piece ...





The hardest thing is to keep the 3 mm distance to the arc melts the electrode without grabbing the piece ...





Here the solder is burning strong for lack of ability to adjust the distance (this very close, almost gluing)





Here I think I hit the distance ...





This is the ideal situation. Here I've got to run the electrode by piece, making it melt without leaving grab and stop the melting of the material.


I'll refine it until you can create weld beads homogeneous. Or go buy a plasma soloed it is much more expensive (hopefully not need because it is too expensive) but it is much easier to use

 

[lordtosco]

Hi guys; a litle update.



Bar axial





Part of a CV-of any car (I think that's kkk)





One end of the pivot axis





Bearing Motor





Here I cut the bar axial





Cut the tip of the pivot axis





Riding the joint that goes into the bearing














With the joint ready I can mount the base that will support over shoulder


The bearing fits on the cover









continue ...

 

[lordtosco]

And the joint at the base that will fit on the shoulder













Riding on that rod catches throughout the biceps









Partial Result




















I hope you are enjoying the post. Hopefully the steps help someone having ideas, the forum is great for that and I can always learn by reading the posts here

I need a new camera ...

 

[lordtosco]

Hi guys !

To continue my work with the arm, I need to make the vest Chest. With the base vest ready, I can adjust sizes of the pieces of the shoulder joint, and the pneumatic support rods.

For the back I use this flywheel pickup diesel





And to be able to join the North Star of the armrest in the back I use a piece of a balance of a car (I do not know which car was it dug in the middle of a mountain of scrap)





Almost one hours to cut that ****, ever seen that vo having to buy a large grinder to stop using this archaic saw








The piece is provided with 2 sides, only need one, and it will also reduce weight.








Then welding this piece on the wheel, have support for arm assembly














This bearing goes in the hole to tip the balance to spin more fluid in the joint








For now I went here on the back plate.


To the front of the chest I will use (in the case you change your mind till the end of the process) that covers the whole distribution of oil of a car engine.








A piece of shim engine





Continue ...

 

[lordtosco]

The main body of the front set should be more or less well








Slow and steady ...

 

[Courage]

This is so cool! I love the whole hinging mechanism, and I suppose it helps a lot that you have a bunch of rusty, scary metal. Nothing can really beat real wear.

 

[lordtosco]

Thanks man!


The idea of ​​using scrap pieces brings two variables:


1 - Do not need to be complex finish giving in costume
2 - The aesthetics will always be more realistic and original.


It has guided me in this project. I hope to get a good result in the end of everything.

 

[Rustmonkey]

A fantastic and inspiring build but you'll need a Crane to lift ya if you ever fall over.

Top quality work.:cool

 

[lordtosco]

A fantastic and inspiring build but you'll need a Crane to lift ya if you ever fall over.

Top quality work.:cool

Thanks for the advice and and praise.

I think the total weight will be 25 pounds (all costume). That is very little, considering I have a full battle armor (style D & D) that weighs 52 pounds (all made of steel), and I used it for over 4 hours walking, this costume will have the weight of a feather.
Furthermore, only the exercise I do to handle heavy machines, folding and deforming heavy pieces of steel, among other tense situations well, I think being physically trained

 

[lordtosco]

Today, I began to envision a more "instant" something to the costume to doing. Oh I come across a piece with aesthetic very good for the purpose. But it was heavy it contained an oil filter probably soaked into it.





This piece will solve the "air tank" that sits on the waist of the costume, but I need to reduce as much weight as possible.


The damn reservoir would not open at all. Then I discovered the hard way (trying with locking pliers) that **** only opens with Pull Key filter. Of course I'm not one of those at home. But I had a lot of scrap and electric welding, drilling, so I decided to do an impromptu looking at some pictures on the net.


I used a motor current





I took a piece of shim engine





A piece of that stick shift VW





Sanded and stuck the tip of the bar and set the end of the chain with the actual pin that I dropped a link








Here I snapped the pin to not drop





Once soldered the piece shim got this result








Works like a wrench, so that for very large diameter objects





I think I'll start make some tools here from now